nunan Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I'm doing a clutch job on a 4wd f250 with a 7.3, and just curious what you guys are charging for labor, and also if there are any quirks that I should know about goign into it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Put a single mass Luk assy in it and get rid of the DMF (if it still has one). The whole assy with FW costs less than the OEM DMF that's probably bad. If the tip of the input shaft is worn from the pilot brg being bad the aftermarket has one that moves the surface back a bit to make use of a fresh surface. Ask/prep the cust for new hydraulics. If the hydraulics fail they will blame you or the clutch. (Use OEM hydraulics) Have a buddy stroke the clutch pedal while watching the firewall just behind the clutch MC. IIRC the firewall breaks allowing the MC mount to flex in operation. This is one of the few times I recommend an aftermarket part over an OEM part. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 There is a bell-housing bolt right behind the down-pipe.I loosen the RH side cab mount bolts and lift the cab a couple inches. Lifting the cab allows the exhaust to move up for better access to that bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 The downpipe comes out real easy. No need to lift the cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunan Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 okay, I had replaced all the hydraulics due to a poor pedal return, went down to the clutch fork to find out it was releasing all the way, allowing a lot of room for the fork to move (without the slave cylinder connected)I got the trans out and transfer case out in one piece, how can i tell the difference between a dual mass and single mass flywheel? I will check the input shaft, it seemed like it was fine but will look at it closer when i get back home. I used a swivel and didnt need to remvoe the downpipe, just left the bolt in there while i removed the trans. and his downpipe is rotted to hell (common theme on the truck, so if i remove it i'll either be welding a new ball flange assy to it (if i can find one) or replacing the pipe which I doubt he'll have the money for. On another note, what are you guys charging labor time to do this job? He's a driver of mine, and I dont want to over charge but want to make sure I'm not getting screwed either. Thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 A dual mass flywheel is a 2 piece unit dampened buy huge springs. The clutch face part of it will be bolted to the ring gear part. Flip it upside down and you should see the springs. Typically the spring seats will be beat to crap and cracked. It is way cheaper to get the conversion if this is what you have. Google "ford dual mass flywheel" there are a ton of pics on the net. Labour wise 5.5 to 6 hours is typical for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Well, it was many moons ago before I had one of these beauties on an old body style. But yes, I agree that those DMF units were total GARBAGE!!! And 5.6 to 6 hours does sound about right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunan Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 he did a clutch about 3 years back, and replaced it with a single mass. its a south bend clutch, and he's replacing it with the same one. Only got three years out of it, but the guy who did it before screwed up quite a few things (i've been fixing my drivers personal vehicles for a few months now, trying to fix what the other guy over looked or wasnt competent enough to notice) input shaft is fine, and i seperated the transfer case just to make installing it abit easier (on my back restling the whole assembly is more then i feel like dealin with) I'm having him take the flywheel to the brake place I deal with for work, and have them check it and cut it if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 If he only got 3 years out of it, it's because of external circumstances (as you hinted) rather than a problem with the clutch. The Luk setup (probably relabeled South Bend) has a higher torque rating, larger diameter (by a full inch IIRC), and more wear surface than the OEM unit. They wear better and have a considerably lower pedal pressure than the OE unit. Luk has an engineering facility right down the street from my old shop and we used to do a LOT of engineering installs for them on SMF updates as well as other demo clutches. Their products are top quality and the company is a class act. Even in a regular install on a non-DMF, their Gold clutch lines are hard to beat. They are also OEM factory install on a large percentage of vehicles from the factory. IIRC, nearly all Euro cars come with Luk clutches as well as a lot of US cars. Just rambling.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunan Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 I always saw people using south bend clutches and having good results, so it sort of threw me for a loop when I saw he only got three years out of it. I also think he's part of the problem, as he drives stick very oddly (got sick driving with him twice). so we'll see what happens. its got new hydraulics from the master to slave (one whole unit pre bled), now a new clutch and a freshly cut flywheel (which was worn unevenly from what my machinist told me). the old slave was installed so it wasnt pushing linearly, but more of a diagonal in terms of the clutch fork, so i think it was applying pressure to the clutch even when it shouldve been released for the majority of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 I put a dual disc south bend clutch in my buddy's 6.4 Aside from the fact that the throwout bearing and fork they supplied were for the wrong truck, the pressure plate isn't right either, and it's just an all around shitty experience to drive. Swapping in a different pressure plate next week. Had to severely modify hydraulic system to get it to even be driveable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 So much for Redneck Engineering. If the part don't fit, you must a quit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 10, 2012 Share Posted February 10, 2012 It's kinda like a guy who wears a size 8 shoe wearing a size 14 shoe. It fits, but it don't work worth a fuck! The pressure plate they've supplied this go-round actually shows as a cummins 5.9 part. If memory serves me rightly, the rod from the pedal to the master had to be lengthened 1/4" as well as the pushrod from the slave to the release lever had to be lengthened, but I don't remember the measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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