scott1984 Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 ok i guess this one has got me truck was towed in verified no icp no external leaks and was overfill with oil. Pulled plug off hpop reservoir empty for s and g filled up and spun over for about a min or so still no icp. Pulled icp sensor out to see if oil was present on injectors nothing. Pulled plug again empty again pulled top off reservoir and spun over for a few mins no lpop. Pulled filter off and spun over nothing. I felted like pickup tube or lpop. Got lookin found the glue on was leaking badly so pulled engine for fix that and I was hoping for a broken or crack pickup tube. Tested tube with water no leaks. Pulled pump off looked great have not physical mesaured it waiting on my buddy to bring my feeler gauage back to me. any help will be greaty thanked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 First thing I would do is have a sit down with the customer. They have left out a very valuable piece of information that would clear up what is wrong with this truck. I would dare say they have most likely done something that would be very embarrassing to talk about. This is usually the case. Get them to open up and spill the beans and then the failure will make sense. You are already in there so replace the pump dont dick around with measuring it, also replace the pick up tube, there is an updated one. Even though yours is fine then new one will be better. PACK THE PUMP GEARS WITH ASSEMBLY LUBE!!!! upon re-installation and fill the oil filter to the brim. That puppy should build oil pressure within 5 seconds of cranking. I would retest oil pressure with an actual gage and not the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredsvt Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 When you had the motor out you should have pulled the rear main seal carrier to see if the galley plugs by the cam have come out. You could be pumping, but its all going right back in the pan. I agree about there's more to the story than just a "no start". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott1984 Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 The best I can by the oil flow chart that it hits the filter frist then the oil gallerys. But I could be wrong the oil flow is not real clear to me. i thinking putting updated pickup and new pump and maybe a timing cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Timing cover is going to be a must for close inspection... I've seen a few of these badly scored. Of course the motor has to come out to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 What model year? Early 7.3s had a relief valve that would blow out of the TC causing no LPOP. Please ALWAYS tell us what year you're working on. There are a ton of differences in these engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I've seen the oil pressure regulator stick on a couple of these. With the oil filter off you can use a 90 degree pick and see if you can move the plunger back and forth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Quote: What model year? Early 7.3s had a relief valve that would blow out of the TC causing no LPOP. It's a 2000........what's TC stand for? Drawing a blank at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 AAhhhhhh are you referring to the short circuit in the timing cover (TC) that bypasses everything to get oil into the HPOP reservoir on cold starts? Whoa, it's all flooding into my brain now, that short circuit is in the front of the block, so what is this plug you speak of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 No, not referring to the priming check ball/spring arrangement (BTW it's in the block visible from the top with a 3/8" square drive on the plug) for filling the HP reservoir on a new dry engine. I'm referring to a valve in the rear side of the timing cover on '94-95 engines that would physically blow out of the cover and allow all pressurized oil to vent directly into the pan causing zero LPOP to the engine. I'm in FL and don't have my stuff with me right now but I think it's called a de-aeration valve or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott1984 Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 well i pulled the engine out the other day to fix oil leak did notice on the valve cover under oil film the engine is a 03 so tells me its had a salavge yard engine put in it. pulled the oil pan and timing cover off the check for cracks being a salavage engine you never know. but the ball and spring i have a question on it is the spring supposted to set straight cause this one is not i pull it out to inspect every thing feels ok i came in the 6.0s and i have work on some 7.3 but mostly injectors, idm, hpop and cam sensors before and after recall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 IIRC it's called a "short circuit valve". Here's what I remember: It sits in the top front of the block, removal of the TC is necessary for access. It is only used once in it's life to allow the LPOP to fill the reservoir to encourage starting a dry engine. Once the passages are full, it rarely or never opens back up again. I have never seen it cause a performance or oil system problem. It is finger loose in the picture above. (Sidebar- the elusive de-aeration valve in the front cover I do not have a picture of!) Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Odd, depending on which section you refer to, the 2000 WSM calls this valve two different things. 1- Anti-drain check ball 2- Oil pump relief valve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Odd, depending on which section you refer to, the 2000 WSM calls this valve two different things. 1- Anti-drain check ball 2- Oil pump relief valve And the funny thing is, it's neither! ISIS: 1. Use a hex head wrench to remove the plug located in the top left front of the crankcase. 2. Inspect the plug, O-ring, spring, and the check ball for wear. Also check the ball seat in the valve port of the crankcase. Replace any worn items. 3. Install the ball and spring into the valve port. Apply clean engine oil to the O-ring and place it onto the plug. 4. Screw the plug into the crankcase. Tighten the plug to the standard torque value. Short Circuit Components 1. O-Ring 2. Plug 3. Spring 4. Check Ball Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott1984 Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 yeap thats ball and spring I was talking about. Bruce when the plug is tightened is the spring going to be straight or kicked to the side just wondering looks like I am going put a new pickup tube, oil pump, and timing cover gaskets. Put the starter on and crank over see if it pulls oil out of a clear gal bucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Quote: looks like I am going put a new pickup tube, oil pump, Please pack the oil pump gears with assembly lube before buttoning up and cranking over or you will never get enough suction to prime the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 when the plug is tightened is the spring going to be straight or kicked to the side I wouldn't be concerned if the spring is not straight.... Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott1984 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Brad trusted me I awlays put something in all base oil pumps. Bruce thanks I just want be sure. when parts come in I will let everyone know. Thanks again everybody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott1984 Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 guys i have finally got oil pressure replace lpop and picked up oil pressure just like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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