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Escape rear wheel bearing removal (4x4)

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Removing a rear axle from the knuckle of an Escape can be an annoying task to say the least. Replacing the rear wheel bearing can be an even greater pain in the…well it goes without saying. The procedure in the shop manual involves removing the entire knuckle from the vehicle and using a press to get the bearing in and out. Vehicles that roam around the Northeast make removing the knuckle an impossible task. Even if you get it get it out, it would most likely be damaged beyond repair and the knuckle is about $600 dollars.

 

In an effort to save some time and frustration and to save the customer some undesirable cost, we use the Hub Tamer to service the bearings. Here is the way I perform the service.

 

Today I am servicing the right rear bearing, here is the vehicle hoisted and tire removed already

 

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I mark the rotor to the hub so it gets reassembled in the same spot.

 

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The caliper needs to come off next but the shock is in the way. Since the shock needs to be removed to get the spring out, I remove the lower shock nut and swing the shock out of the way so I can get straight on the caliper bolts. If I were doing a brake job only, then I would deal with the shock being in the way and use a “speed” hex socket to get to the caliper bolts.

 

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That’s much better, and easier to get to the caliper bolts for proper fastener removal.

 

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I like to mark the spring to the knuckle, that way when I reassemble the vehicle I don’t have to fumble around with having my hand in the spring pocket to make sure the spring is seated against its stop.

 

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A descent screw jack (dead man stand) is essential for this job. Luckily the knuckle is designed with this nice little pocket that the jack will fit into. This makes the job safe and easy when it comes to loading and unloading the suspension to get the spring out.

 

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Remove the control arm nuts next and separate the arms from the knuckle.

 

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Now the knuckle can be lowered and the spring can be removed with ease.

 

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Now I push the axle out of the hub.

 

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Next I use the jack to raise the knuckle as high as physically possible. This requires prying the bump stop over or removing it entirely.

 

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It looks strange but it’s the easiest way I have found to get the axle out, because the stubs are so long.

 

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With a little force and extreme axle joint angling, the axle can be removed from the knuckle. It’s actually quite easy.

 

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Looks like this once the axle is free, and now the knuckle can be lowered back down until it hangs free on its own.

 

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Now the hub flange can be slide hammered out.

 

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The bearing snap ring retainer can be removed.

 

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Now it’s time for the Hub Tamer.

 

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There is no procedure for the Escape in the Tamer instructions, so it needs to be custom fitted. Once you have the basic knowledge of how the tool works, you can modify it to take out any bearing that will fit the provided adapters. I don’t use any of the numbers on the tools. Instead I match up the adapters to the bearing and knuckle bore. Here is the setup to press the bearing out.

 

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This tool can pop out some of the most stubborn bearings out there!

 

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I clean the snap ring groove out in preparation for the new bearing.

 

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I use this setup to press the bearing back in.

 

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The plate in the 3rd pic in the strip is sized to fit against the knuckle but not so big that it hits the abs sensor on the backside.

 

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Run it in 'til it stops.

 

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I always use a new snap ring.

 

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Now it’s time to put the flange back in. The hub must be pressed against the inner bearing or it will be separated and damaged. The second pic. shows the appropriate adapter to allow the screw to draw against the inner bearing race.

 

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The vehicle can be reassembled now reversing the disassembly process. When I get to the point of installing the control arms, I end up with this kind of thing here. The knuckle has a lot of outward tension pushing away from the rear end. A ratchet strap is employed to pull the knuckle towards the center of the vehicle to facilitate control arm installation.

 

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Just a bit of tension on the ratchet strap and the ball joint pops right into place.

 

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I install new retaining nuts on the control arms and put the brakes, shock, and wheel back on the job is complete.

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Yeah, at the ambulance company they were too cheap to buy a press or a nice tool like this no matter how much I begged them. They just left a job like that for me and I had to get it done. So it was Hammer Time for me then sore back and shoulders. Its especially good for explorers-i hate taking those apart.

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Funny you should post this. You just made me remember ONE rear wheel bearing I did on an Escape. The one I did was a FWD if I recall correctly, so thank God I didn't have to deal with having to pull the rear axle out. And yeah Matt, I know exactly what you mean about the '02 and up Explorers. THOSE are a lot of fun. I'm always on pins and needles when I'm pressing one of those puppies out on our press. You guys would be amazed at the lbs. of force showing on the gauge before it finally KABOOMS to let go!!! Edges and MKXs are another one of my favourites.

 

BTW, nice writeup Brad. Would you care to share the tool number of that Hub Tamer?

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  • 1 month later...

That hub tamer doodad is the coolest thing ever.

 

If I ever end up back in the trade or with a well enough outfitted shop at home, I'm all over ordering one of those.

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