Matt Saunoras Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 What's the deal with these damn things? Can anyone make time on these? How is everyone else doing them? I'm doing a right side in a navigator right now under ESP. They actually sent an inspector out to verify "carbon tracks" coming out of the #4 primary. Like this isn't a known concern. The last F-150 5.4 I did absolutely fought me to death. It took me all day and by the end I was so pissed off I was ready to quit. Not to mention I was so sore I could hardly even move. Why? Don't know, maybe it's just me So I tried something a little different this time. I went right into the book under RH engine isolator removal and pulled that fucking engine mount out before I even touched a manifold stud. The engine is comfortably jacked up about 2-3 inches, just enough to wiggle that mount down and out. It took me mere minutes to zap the bottom row out after this. What do you think? Worth the hastle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 That A/C compressor looks awfully far away from the engine than I remember. But then again, I could be confusing this with an '06 Explorer 4.6L 3-valve engine too, which usually break the stud on cylinder #1 (which is also the hardest one to access too of course). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Finished that one this morning. Did it faster and with a lot less hastle than any other one I've done. I'll never fight another one. A T-handle 13mm is very useful for getting the front upper mount bolt out from the block. Other than that no real special tricks to getting the mount out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Done tons of these also here is my steps for F-150. Pull inner fender,tire. Drop sway bar at mount nuts. Remove lower engine mount nuts. Trans jack, push up on RH engine. Work through fender. Use welder to remove broken bolts. Tip of the day--Everyone gets m-time for broken studs (punch ro carefully) On Exploers with same manifolds(i think the 4.6) do the same but evacuate A/C and remove the compressor attaching lines(this makes for easy removal and no need to drain the coolant) I like your idea of actually removeing the mount. I might try that on the next one with multipe broken studs. On other thing I run a thread chaser through the holes, Makes starting those new studs much eaiser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 yeah that's the way I've been doing it before this. you know the little alignment tabs in the studs holes on the gasket? I ream the ones out on the bottom row since you have to start those studs after the manifold is in. no tabs = no trouble starting the studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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