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6.7 Long Block Build

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6.7 Liter Long Block Parts List/Build

 

This is the parts list for the needed parts to install a bare long block. Please open the file and save it to the computer being used so it can be printed off if needed to order parts. The list can then be compared to the body of the post with all the pics for visual reference of needed parts.

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My parts department shows a part number for an enhanced long block (BC3Z-6006-E). When this number was put through it reverted back to a regular long block with no gaskets. At the time of this article I could not get a long block with the gasket kit supplied. This is to help out with anyone who gets a long block and wonders what it has and does not have as of 3/28/2012.

 

This is engine part number BC3Z-6006-F

Rear view: it has a CKP sensor (red arrow) but no tone ring (yellow arrow).

 

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Left view: comes with oil cooler hoses (green arrows, and fuel injector thru seals and glow plugs (red arrows).

 

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Right view: comes with oil filter (red arrow) but no oil, and under the cover (green arrows) comes with egr cooler gaskets (BC3Z-9E464-C [2 ct.]).

Posted ImageFront view: comes with front crank seal but no pulley (red arrow) and primary water pump. Equipped with CMP sensor (green arrow). I am not overly fond of the wiring retainers for the harness going to the CMP sensor.

 

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Top view: comes with HPFP bolts and exhaust manifold studs (red arrows) but no heat shield under the turbo (yellow circle).

 

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1st step in assembling the long block, glue this thing to the block.

 

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Long block comes with a plug where this should go. You will need a 14 mm hex to remove the plug and 32 mm socket to swap the block heater over with this new o-ring.

 

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HPFP o-ring.

 

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Proper positioning for the HPFP gear installation.

 

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Vacuum pump gasket.

 

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Fuel injector seal kit, suffix A and B denotes which way the fuel line jumpers run.

 

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This engine comes with glow plugs. There is a serious shake up involving these glow plugs. The old one is on the bottom and the new style is on top. Please reference this article to help determine proper glow plug usage if needed. 6.7L glow plug pdf

 

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Exhaust hardware. The only thing not needed is the studs for the manifold to head as the engine is equipped with them already. These parts will obviously have to be doubled up to do both manifolds.

 

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CKP tone ring. I would suggest swapping this over as soon as the flywheel is removed from the old engine or at least to lay it on the flywheel so it can’t be forgotten.

 

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Flywheel bolts and crank pulley bolts.

 

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Coolant crossover tube next.

 

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Fuel rail supply tubes.

 

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Heater core supply tube o-ring.

 

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That brings me to this point.

 

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I have been taking the bolts out of the brackets and parts of the valve covers and putting them right back in their spot, but it is time consuming. So I made a diagram of where they go. Here are the bolts where they should be.

 

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1= M6 x 1.0 x 25 mm (13 mm head w/t captured washer) stud [1 req.]

2= M6 x 1.0 x 32 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [7 req.]

3= M8 x 1.25 x 41 mm (13 mm head) bolt [2 req.]

4= M6 x 1.0 x 22 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [2 req.]

5= M6 x 1.0 x 32 mm (10 mm head w/t captured washer) stud [1 req.]

 

Right side.

 

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3= M8 x 1.25 x 41 mm (13 mm head) bolt [2 req.]

6= M6 x 1.0 x 22 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [1 req.]

7= M6 x 1.0 x 14 mm (8 mm head) bolt [1 req.]

8= M6 x 1.0 x 58 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [4 req.]

9= M6 x 1.0 x 125 mm (8 mm head w/t captured washer) bolt [3 req.]

 

Crankcase depression regulator gaskets.

 

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Fuel supply o-rings.

 

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Motor mount bolts, these are torque to yield.

 

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Now the engine is back in the chassis and I can finish it up with the turbo and intakes.

 

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Turbo bolts.

 

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Egr bypass gaskets.

 

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Egr supply pipe gaskets.

 

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That brings me to this point. Up ‘til now I have torqued all the engine fasteners to the proper torque. These bolts are the exception. The fasteners take a beating and even after cleaning and chasing threads they still have trouble seating the gaskets before the torque wrench reaches its setting. So they get a little extra umph. I also bend the gaskets flat at the edges that stick out (red arrow).

 

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Last but not least the upper intake.

 

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This is also in a complete PDF document on my computer and can be e-mailed to anyone who may want it.

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Again, nice job!. I needed this a week or so ago and had a bad time remembering where all the fasteners correctly went. I am not familiar with this engine at all... unlike the Navistar engines. Nuff said.

 

One thing you missed though, the 10 flex plate bolts need to be replaced as well which are the same as the front pulley bolts.

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Quote:
One thing you missed though, the 10 flex plate bolts need to be replaced as well which are the same as the front pulley bolts.
Negative ghost rider, picture 15 on the parts list. Posted Image

Just finished up this engine Tuesday. Only took a week to get it done from key to key. I was quite happy with the turn around. Wish I could have gotten done 2 weeks earlier for ya!
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Quote:
Negative ghost rider, picture 15 on the parts list. Posted Image

Ah! Okay, you mentioned flywheel and crank pulley bolts... I saw the image showing the part # and quantity of 4 (which is 4 per package). Flat rate reading. Posted Image
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Holy crap!!!! Brad, you need to be off the tools and be a service lit-parts lit writer! Every time you make up one of these i think to myself.... why the fuck cant ford or any manufacturer do this from day one????

 

Very nice Job!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for this, Brad... Excellent job. Wish I had this back in December - the last job I did for Ford was building up a 6.7 that someone had tried to drive through a lake bottom - water ingestion and all the chaos that erupts from there...

 

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Second swapping this tone ring as soon as possible. The engine will start and run fairly normally without this ring....

 

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This torque to yield bolt will not accept much overtorque. I didn't feel my torque wrench click at the 20 or so foot pounds that the spec calls for, and one of my new bolts snapped off in the head. I don't know if it was distraction on my part, but I don't think I pulled it very bard... Just be careful torquing these bolts..

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