lmorris Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 DO NOT SEPARATE the EGR valve from the bypass plate. Open the seal kit first and remove ONLY the bolts that are supplied in the kit. They can be removed as an assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Well that depends on why you are pulling it apart. If you are performing the P0401 TSB, good advice. I had an engine failure that required total disassembly due to piston and head pieces being blown back up the exhaust and into the EGR valve and into the cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 My bad. This was for the P0401 TSB. Should have stated that. https://plus.google.com/photos/111134555...=CK-ih_qgkcC4NA Here is a pic of the cooler core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I did my first one of these today. Why does the WSM instruct you to remove the upper intake? I had no problem getting the cooler out and back in with the intake in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I did my first one of these today. Why does the WSM instruct you to remove the upper intake? I had no problem getting the cooler out and back in with the intake in place. If you have little girly-boy hands, you can ?easily? reach the stuff at the back of the cooler (the fuel line bracket and wiring supports). However, if you have manly meathooks (resembling, after a fashion, a smallish ham), you will be happy you removed the intake. Also, not removing the intake can make it easier to snap the return off a fuel injector... not to mention, when some rocket scientist posts that on message board, all of you (I'm not flat rate) will reap the rewards of reduced labour times as well as an increased possibility of broken injectors due to scrambling to make time... Ah... the injector - yes, our store - no, not me - IIRC #4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 The only thing on the back of the EGR cooler is the nut for the EBP tube. I removed if from below with a 1/4" air ratchet, then noticed that you only need to back it off a turn or two. I did remove the PCM to make a bit more room... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 done plenty of those EBP tubes without touching the upper intake lmorris if you're referring to the fact that the EGR valve bolts are torque to yeild, yes I found that out too.....the hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 lmorris if you're referring to the fact that the EGR valve bolts are torque to yeild, yes I found that out too.....the hard way. That is exactly what I meant. Funny thing though. Just recently I was in the GTDI classroom course and the whole discussion on torque to yield came up. General rule of thumb is they can be used 3 times before they need replacing. Apparently they used to measure the bolt thickness and reuse if in spec, instructor stated it was cheaper just to tell us to us new ones. So reusing the EGR housing bolts is not that much of an issue knowing this. It does however save you some time doing the repair if you don't separate it from the adapter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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