springhillracer Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 IPR sensor was full of oil, replaced sensor and pigtail. New IPR valve. Injector pressure all over the board from 200 to 300 then 500 then right back down again. Will not sustain 500+ to engage injectors. IPR duty cycle is 83%. Have not done the HPO leak test, but Im thinking HPOP. Any thoughts? Also, oil pressure gauge on dash is working so I know it has oil pressure also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 A failed pump would probably not give you an erratic reading like that unless the reading you describe is fast and consistent. Typically the early pumps will develop a crack in the rotating cylinder and just give you low pressure. I am not dsagreeing with you though... If you make a data recording and zoom in on the ICP voltage you can usually see a pattern. I have an example or two you can see if you wish. With pressure readings as high as you report any pattern should be easy to see. Have you done any air testing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Glad to see you made it here. These guys are best techs in America. They will get you sorted out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 i built a tool so i can supply air to the system tonight. The readings on the oil pressure are quick. In a 5-10 second crank time it will jump all over from 100 then 200 then 300 then 200 then 500 then 100. The piece in the pic is internal of the pump? I will try and record the data. I just bought this scanner so I am still unsure of what it will do and how to do it...http://www.autel.us/ds708.htm Thanks again guys....thanks KTMLew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 If you have a mig you could use the argon tank? The round piece with the crack is internal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 10, 2012 Author Share Posted May 10, 2012 i dont have one. I took the old icp sensor and gutted it. Then I found an air fitting and brazed it together. Then I JBwelded just to be on the safe side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 ok. did an air test. did not hear any air from either side vc. i am taking the intake off. im pretty sure its the hpop after this. any takers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 wanted to give an update. Took the pump out, took the tube that connects the branch tube off, took my air nozzle with rubber tip, blew shop air into the branch tube line. I help it for 20 seconds on, didnt hear any noise from vc with stethoscope, turned air off but held gun on tubes for another 20-30 seconds. Air didnt seep out at all. When i did remove the air nozzle it made a pop sound because air was still stuck in the tubes....will have the pump in tomorrow night and maybe finish it then or saturday morning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 It's good to see I'm not the only one who thought of the method of air testing an early 6.0L like you described: The nice thing about doing this, is your taking the HPOP and IPR out of the equation and very quickly determining if you're going left or right. By the way, since you have it off, have a look at the under side of the HPOP cover. Does it look like this? Because if it does, you may want to replace with a new cover that looks like this: The purpose of the machined groove in the updated cover is to prevent the discharge tube from contacting the cover and eventually rubbing through, creating a high pressure oil leak source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 i will look into the cover thing. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Very nice photos, Mike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 ITS FIXED!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Good deal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 ok. New problem. Truck runs great... ac dies as soon as you touch throttle. Doesnt matter if you are idling or driving. Next issue, has a funny noise at half throttle while under load. Doesnt do it when you are in neutral, just in drive 1/2 throttle or more. Almost sounds boost related, but not sure.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Clyde Posted May 13, 2012 Share Posted May 13, 2012 Not sure on the A/C issue; possible harness- depending on how much of harness was unplugged to remove intake. Compressor plug not seated all the way if it was unplugged, or pinched up near the right valve cover ??? Does the noise sound like a high pitched whistle ? Possibly the metal gasket between the egr cooler and RH uppipe vibrating under load if they are not seated together ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 lol...you know thats funny. I have been driving it around most of the day to make sure she runs good, and I am replaying most of what I have done. Im not 100% sure that I tightened the band clamp on the EGR cooler. I can not say that I did. I know I installed it, but I may have just did it loosely so I could line the intake up properly and I told myself I would get to the band clamp after I installed the intake onto the EGR cooler and tightened the bolt from the intake to the cooler. I cannot say that I actually went back and tightened the band clamp. I have been busy all day and havent had a chance to check it. Will do it in the am when its cool out. I was wondering about it all day and now that I read this, Im hoping thats what happened. I betcha it is the EGR pipe...On the AC, I think it may be low on freon. I drove it all day and it was hotter than hell out, AC wouldnt work. THen I noticed when it cooled off, the ac worked fine only the compressor would cycle on and off. I got to evac the system and put the right amount in it. Maybe tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 ok, well that wasnt it. It is from the turbo. At least thats what I think. The noise is not an exhaust leak or an air leak. I have checked all the clamps and hoses. The funny thing is, when I use the scanner to control the turbo, the noise is only there when the turbo is engaged. I can command the turbo open and the noise instantly goes away. Next thing, I have a check engine light for the accelerator pedal. p2138 and p2140. I watched the 3 sensors and one of them is out of range, so it says to replace APP sensor. I know the code was not stored prior to me doing this, well I didnt see it with the scanner. Is there anything i could have done to create this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Justin... I can be an absolute dick at times... and you must be able to tell what is coming. Take no offence, this is just me. "It's fixed". We all rejoice when a contributor can say this... but it would be delightful to know what we did to fix it. Taking a number of suggestions and keeping them secret doesn't really add too much to the knowledge base. "when the turbo is engaged" is a disconcerting statement... the turbo is always "engaged". You can use your scan tool to read MGP and EBP along with manipulating VGT duty cycle. Using a length of rubber tubing as a stethoscope will help localize whatever noise you are hearing. The early trucks were prone to wire chaffes at the left wheel hose liner. The affected harness contained the wiring from the APP to the PCM (FWIW, there are few codes that say "replace <THIS>"... we may assume pattern failures at times, but if you are to bypass "normal" diagnostics for unfamiliar codes, you are in for a world of hurt. We all offer what assistance we can... but you are the eyes and ears on this project. If there is a loose marmon clamp, you are the guy that determines this.. from my chair, I can't tell. FWIW, we all screw up and leave shit loose at one point or another... developing a routine to avoid this will reduce the chances- but it wont eliminate them. "The "fuck up fairy" comes to visit when she/he feels like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 lol...yeah sorry. Its fixed was for the HPOP. Sorry about that. And no, you arent being a dick. If anything, I was. I took some advice to help diag this, and took some reassurance from some of you and never reported back. My bad. I am going to replace the clamp on the down pipe. I will check for wire chaffing. I know this truck very well, and last month when I drove it, it did not have a CEL on and it was not making this noise. I checked the clamp on the EGR cooler to exhaust pipe, it was tight. I am trying to descrie this the best way possible so everyone can understand it. I tried the stethoscope and could only hear loud whistling from around the turbo. Not much help. When I say "engage", I mean close the VGT solenoid and get it to about 1500rpm and thats when I hear it. It is more of a whistle. I "think" that it may be an exhaust leak at the rear of the turbo. I was able to close the VGT and raise the RPM and actually get under the hood and listen. I hope I am on the right track. As far as the CEL for the peddle, I will look at the wires for the APP. You said on the left wheel side harness? What are the chances of it being a bad sensor? The "fuck up fairy" wasnt too mean to me. She only fucked a few things up...thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springhillracer Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 ok...well, the "fuck up fairy" hit me good. I used the stethoscope to listen again for the noise. The gasket under the intake between the EGR cooler, well I guess I was in a hurry, and I forgot to tighten down one of the bolts. It was tight, but not tight enough. I could make the sound change by running my finger over it. So I loosened everything just enough to pull the gasket out. The outside edge was burned and chipped away. I know the exhaust gases get hot and that would cause that to eat at the gasket. I have to install a new one tomorrow. That should cure my noise. Next thing to concur is the APP. I will post my fix as soon as I can. Thanks Again. Rookie mistake...20 lashes with a rubber hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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