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6.7 out the front? anyone tried it yet?

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I have an oil filed truck with basicly a non removable cab do to the good people at the conversion company.

Man this is gonna suck. #4 glowplug code, #4 contrabution code, fuel knowcking and tries to runaway when doing a relitive compression test. anyone wanna take a guess at what wrong with it Posted Image

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I haven't had the pleasure of not having the choice of cab off yet. Sounds like fun times ahead for ya. I would still "alligator" the nose of the cab up 5 or 6 inches if possible, gives tons of extra room.

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ya mike this is my second one. first one was a cab pull it looked better then out the front. but not really an option here so I figured I would ask. no harm in looking for tips if someone has already been there.

and if not all let ya all know how it goes.

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  • 4 weeks later...

i've done one and tilting the cab up in the front 3-4inches helped a ton. and removing the oil pan to. the biggest time consumer was the torque converter, cant bump engine over with the starter. chances are your already done. any tips?

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the biggest time consumer was the torque converter, cant bump engine over with the starter. chances are your already done. any tips?

I do a ton of trans work and I haven't used a remote starter button in the past 15 years. I have found it easier and quicker to put a 18mm 12 point socket on one of the 4 crank pulley bolts and bar it over by hand. It goes even quicker if you grab an hourly guy. Then you can just watch for the convertor nuts whilst someone else does the grunt work.

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yup job went well. tilt the cab and no need to mess with the pan. pulling the cooling system moduel is the pain after that its easy going.

working around the vmax and wiring I was into the first time for around 30 hours.

got doen and found out the thing would only build 15 psi of boost. ppt ka16 replaced turbo for 1 psi gain. did that and all was good.

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  • 6 months later...

Just finished one t/c nuts suck, what happens if you drop a nut in the bellhousing installing them? Took 29hrs but also had some wiring and pcm pins bent, auction truck. Work on a drive on rack so cna't pull cabs. It actually went together faster than coming apart. I did have problems with glow plug conectors on the glow plug side not making conection but pulled on the wire to get out.

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  • 1 month later...

Took one out the front, no issues, did not have to tilt the cab, lots of room with the lower pan removed. Had is sitting on the floor ready for tear down in just under 8 hours.

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Took one out the front, no issues, did not have to tilt the cab, lots of room with the lower pan removed. Had is sitting on the floor ready for tear down in just under 8 hours.

Sweet Baby Jesus...so now we "brag" about only having to spend 8 hours to remove an engine? I remember swapping a junk yard engine into an 84 Escort in less than 5 hours from raising the hood. Small block Chevy's/Fords/Dodges were a 4-5 hour swap.

 

This new shit is crazy hard to work on. Occasionally I'll stumble on to something easy like a 2003 Chev 4.8/5,3 intake but there is waaaaaaay more stuff that sucks dog balls.

 

My 99 S-10 heater core is a solid 8 hour job. The newer stuff ain't getting easier from what I've seen...

 

Plus you guys are doing the hardest shit FOR WARRANTY TIME!

 

Posted Image

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I hear ya. I pulled, replaced the camshaft and all gaskets, installed and had running, a 350 in my 85 chev 1/2 ton in an afteroon. Sure miss the old times.

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The person who developed heart surgeries performed through the large artery in your leg obviously was an auto tech to put himself through med school. He probably worked on diesel E series.

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The person who developed heart surgeries performed through the large artery in your leg obviously was an auto tech to put himself through med school. He probably worked on diesel E series.

Nope. He transferred from gynecology... Posted Image

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One word of advice on these engines. DO NOT POUR OIL INTO THE FILLER NECK WITH ANY OF THE LEFT BANK INJECTORS OUT OR YOU WILL FILL THE CYLINDERS. Luckily for me I was doing the torque converter nuts before putting in the injectors or I would have hydro locked it. Engine is in, waiting on installation gasket kit.

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I had the small block out of my hot rod, oil pan gasket replaced and back in in a little over an hour, and that was working at a leisurely pace.

 

Keeping in mind that there's lots of space in the engine compartment.

 

Posted Image

 

air cleaner and carb off, rad hoses and fuel lines off, lifting plate installed, header bolts out.

 

Underneath, knock the converter bolts out, bellhousing bolts and starter off. Unhook the alternator from underneath and lift the whole works out with chain falls, lifting straight up and forward about 3" to clearance the flywheel from the bellhousing.

 

Swapping the motor in that car is way too easy lol.

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I had the small block out of my hot rod, oil pan gasket replaced and back in in a little over an hour, and that was working at a leisurely pace.

 

Keeping in mind that there's lots of space in the engine compartment.

 

Posted Image

 

air cleaner and carb off, rad hoses and fuel lines off, lifting plate installed, header bolts out.

 

Underneath, knock the converter bolts out, bellhousing bolts and starter off. Unhook the alternator from underneath and lift the whole works out with chain falls, lifting straight up and forward about 3" to clearance the flywheel from the bellhousing.

 

Swapping the motor in that car is way too easy lol.

Yep. I almost squeezed a tear out looking at that... Posted Image

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just dropped one in WITH the oil pan on. Not sure if having the transmission out (noticed a front pump leak when the engine was out) makes a difference (doubt it). You just have to watch the A/C tube that goes over the EGR cooler.

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  • 3 months later...

Got one here that's going to be coming out the front, that looks easier than pulling the monstrosity of a rack off of the thing....

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Dropped in another through the front with the pan on and protected by some cardboard. To quote my nephew "Just like a slick of butter". Even with the tranny in place.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I only ever did 2, and the first one I did I had to do cab on. Dropped valves, didn't run. F550 with a boom on it, couldnt get it moved from over the cab, so out the front we went. BRUTAL to get it back in. The monster PTO kept the trans tipping over one way, and prevented me from rotating it as far as I wanted to in the other direction. Carefully documented why I did what I did, and what hotline ad prior approval made me do, punched the clock (manually, not electronic thankfully) and got paid out every cent of a +40 hour claim. Can't remember what the final numbers were. Second cab off was nothing to write home about. After I left, the first engine they did without me, they didn't switch over the tone ring for the crank sensor. Felt sooo bad for the guy.

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Got mine done cab on, Dealer screwing me on the labor though, had 33.5 in it and they only paid me out the 18.0 on the tsb and the 7.2hr m-time punches they had me do for pulling the bumper/winch/trailer? hitch off the front and putting it back on, total of 25.2 hours total....

 

When I tried explaining to them that 'technically' since the job couldn't be done by the book they're supposed to bill Posted Image the full punch time all as m-time, they wouldn't hear any of it....I've been at this dealer a little under 6 months, and I think my days are numbered....they do everything soooo backwards here! Hoping to hear back from an independent shop where they do nothing but Ford, Chevy, Dodge Diesel work, hourly pay with production bonuses!! And no warranty BS!!!!

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Not to burst your bubble, but the book states it can be done cab on. They only recommend and pay for cab off. The 6.4L is the same way. If you look at Mitchell, most cab on procedures pays less than cab off.

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I've done 10+ cab on engines on 6.4's at other dealers, and never had a problem with Posted Image paying the full bill of 30-40 hours on them.

 

You've got to take into consideration that they put the cab-on procedures out to guide you IF you can't remove the cab, not because they want you doing it that way, these cabs are designed to come off 'easily', but they realize there are some instances where cab removal isn't an option. If you'll recall when the 6.4l's came out, there was only a cab off procedure for everything, then when they realized there were cabs that couldn't be removed they published the cab on procedures.

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