ktmlew Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 It finally runs. Customer wouldn't allow me to acquire parts. Not sure why? He purchased: HPOP & cover gasket-NO IPR, Gaskets for Intake, Oil cooler base only, block drain screen, CCV hose, 2 gal antifreeze, turbo mounting kit. I suspect he's "saving" money to do the 4" exhaust and K&N filter. But the fuck-up fairy bit me...leaking at up-pipe to turbo clamp. You can hear is whooooshing as the turbo cycles. I do have some data concerns. Battery voltage PID reads...battery voltage <12.59> when running. At alt only showing 13.1 after about 20 minutes. Tempted to have the alt tested? KAM PID reads FAULT. The battery voltage issue was there before I started removing any parts so not self-inflicted. I noticed on inital inspection FICM readings on scanner all in RED. Autoenginuity data grid has bars which green. yellow, red with actual reading at end of bar. Both "12V" readings were at 12.59. I suspect scanner knows/thinks it should be closer to 14V and that's why bars are RED? Cam/crank sync toggles yes/no while it's running. I assume rust build-up under cam sensor? How do you guys decide what to "fix" on these when you see "30" problems? I told the customer before I started these NEVER have ONE issue...or at least when they won't pull themselves you can bet it's got several issues. At some point the customer feels you are milking the job... I went to local dealerhip today looking for a couple fan stator bolts and they tried to hire me...parts guy took me to the SM. Not sure I want to do this every day again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Sure you do! Come back to the dark side. We have cookies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Ok...after some research 13.3V @ idle/14V @ high idle. So my 13.1 is probably OK. Need to drive it and see what it says. Still concerned about FICM Ref & L powers being @ battery voltage instead of "Alt output voltage"? edit: More research shows 12.5V is normal at FICM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 It's done...or at least as done as it gets for "this money". Test drove. ECT 189F/EOT 231F empty truck flat ground. Bet it will go better than 250 EOT with his 33ft camper. I told him so. He wants the penis extension...once he pays for current repair I will explain what is likely to happen now that it runs right. My prediction: Oil cooler pops and takes EGR cooler with it. Coolant in rear cyl, bends rod. Then he gets all pissy with me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 I am correct that Ford wants no more than 25* degree difference, right? Preparing paperwork for future lawsuit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 My prediction: Oil cooler pops and takes EGR cooler with it. Coolant in rear cyl, bends rod. Then he gets all pissy with me...I have a different prediction. He will melt the oil filter standpipe and take the engine with it. With the EGR cooler still intact (2003 EGR cooler). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Originally Posted By: ktmlew My prediction: Oil cooler pops and takes EGR cooler with it. Coolant in rear cyl, bends rod. Then he gets all pissy with me... I have a different prediction. He will melt the oil filter standpipe and take the engine with it. With the EGR cooler still intact (2003 EGR cooler). Ahhhhhh! OK. I'll add that possibility to my notes. I hate workin with broke folks...! Any idea what temp the standpipe melts at? I may try to get him to install an oil temp gauge so he can see it for himself? I assume 250ish is getting in the danger zone much like a racing engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Temp difference 15 or 20 degrees indicates a problem? I'm seeing both...what have they settled on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 15 degrees is what I've been hearing lately. This is at a steady highway cruise after the veh is fully warmed up. The latest calibration for 05+ will actually set a wrench light for oil cooler efficiency. There is now a monitor programmed into the PCM to allow it to detect a concern based on ECT and EOT delta. I don't know if 03-04 uses a strategy that incorporates this but I would stick with 15 degrees. Unless there is some major crap floating around in the system a new oil cooler shouldn't have near that delta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 IIRC the standpipe melts at 350ish. I think 15 spread is too tight as I've seen 12-13 with two new coolers freshly installed. I use the old 25 degree spread. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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