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2003 6.0L HPOP Swap

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It finally runs. Customer wouldn't allow me to acquire parts. Not sure why?

 

He purchased:

 

HPOP & cover gasket-NO IPR, Gaskets for Intake, Oil cooler base only, block drain screen, CCV hose, 2 gal antifreeze, turbo mounting kit.

 

I suspect he's "saving" money to do the 4" exhaust and K&N filter.

 

But the fuck-up fairy bit me...leaking at up-pipe to turbo clamp. You can hear is whooooshing as the turbo cycles.

 

I do have some data concerns.

 

Battery voltage PID reads...battery voltage <12.59> when running. At alt only showing 13.1 after about 20 minutes. Tempted to have the alt tested?

 

KAM PID reads FAULT.

 

The battery voltage issue was there before I started removing any parts so not self-inflicted. I noticed on inital inspection FICM readings on scanner all in RED. Autoenginuity data grid has bars which green. yellow, red with actual reading at end of bar. Both "12V" readings were at 12.59. I suspect scanner knows/thinks it should be closer to 14V and that's why bars are RED?

 

Cam/crank sync toggles yes/no while it's running. I assume rust build-up under cam sensor?

 

How do you guys decide what to "fix" on these when you see "30" problems? I told the customer before I started these NEVER have ONE issue...or at least when they won't pull themselves you can bet it's got several issues.

 

At some point the customer feels you are milking the job...

 

I went to local dealerhip today looking for a couple fan stator bolts and they tried to hire me...parts guy took me to the SM. Not sure I want to do this every day again?

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Ok...after some research 13.3V @ idle/14V @ high idle. So my 13.1 is probably OK. Need to drive it and see what it says. Still concerned about FICM Ref & L powers being @ battery voltage instead of "Alt output voltage"?

 

edit: More research shows 12.5V is normal at FICM.

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It's done...or at least as done as it gets for "this money".

 

Test drove. ECT 189F/EOT 231F empty truck flat ground. Bet it will go better than 250 EOT with his 33ft camper.

 

I told him so. He wants the penis extension...once he pays for current repair I will explain what is likely to happen now that it runs right.

 

My prediction: Oil cooler pops and takes EGR cooler with it. Coolant in rear cyl, bends rod. Then he gets all pissy with me...

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My prediction: Oil cooler pops and takes EGR cooler with it. Coolant in rear cyl, bends rod. Then he gets all pissy with me...

I have a different prediction. He will melt the oil filter standpipe and take the engine with it. With the EGR cooler still intact (2003 EGR cooler).
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Originally Posted By: ktmlew
My prediction: Oil cooler pops and takes EGR cooler with it. Coolant in rear cyl, bends rod. Then he gets all pissy with me...
I have a different prediction. He will melt the oil filter standpipe and take the engine with it. With the EGR cooler still intact (2003 EGR cooler).

Ahhhhhh! OK. I'll add that possibility to my notes. I hate workin with broke folks...! Posted Image

 

Any idea what temp the standpipe melts at? I may try to get him to install an oil temp gauge so he can see it for himself? I assume 250ish is getting in the danger zone much like a racing engine?

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15 degrees is what I've been hearing lately. This is at a steady highway cruise after the veh is fully warmed up. The latest calibration for 05+ will actually set a wrench light for oil cooler efficiency. There is now a monitor programmed into the PCM to allow it to detect a concern based on ECT and EOT delta.

 

I don't know if 03-04 uses a strategy that incorporates this but I would stick with 15 degrees. Unless there is some major crap floating around in the system a new oil cooler shouldn't have near that delta

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