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Hydraulic Clutch.

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Replacing clutch master, and slave cyl. on '99 7.3 superduty.

Can't seem to get it to bleed enough to fully release the clutch. Using aftermarket parts. DOT 3 fluid. Any ideas ?

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There is no easy way to bleed these. Ford came out with a full kit, master, line and slave, prebled, to solve this. The way we used to do it was to take the slave out of the transmission and hold it so the pushrod points down. Slowly work the pushrod through the full travel a few times with someone watching the res for air. Once you can go a few sweeps with no visible air bubbles you should should be ok.

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A loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong time ago I took an old clutch master reservoir cap, drilled out the vent hole and installed a brass nipple to accept a small vacuum line. The hole in the cap extended though the rubber seal to allow vacuum to be pulled on the system and still seal the cap to the reservoir.

 

This worked in similar fashion to a cooling system air lift tool.

 

This was before Ford offered the hydraulics pre-assembled, filled and purged.

 

I recall having many F650/750 trucks in with clutch problems for a while and the pre-assembled parts were a Godsend!

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There is no easy way to bleed these. Ford came out with a full kit, master, line and slave, prebled, to solve this. The way we used to do it was to take the slave out of the transmission and hold it so the pushrod points down. Slowly work the pushrod through the full travel a few times with someone watching the res for air. Once you can go a few sweeps with no visible air bubbles you should should be ok.

This definitely will work assuming the fork isn't bent/worn at pivot point?

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might not be the exact same on this application, but i did this on my 6.9 just a couple months ago. when i rebuilt the T19 the slave blew from overextension up on removal - for replacement i ordered a new master and slave.

 

i put both parts together on the bench and i purged it there, too. let gravity help you - slave and bleeder up in the air and the master below it.

 

if you can sneak out the line and the master and then install as one assy then maybe this will save some headaches.

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The way we used to do it was to take the slave out of the transmission and hold it so the pushrod points down. Slowly work the pushrod through the full travel a few times with someone watching the res for air.

Ditto on this, we did many of them this way after they quit putting bleeders in them (years ago). IIRC the stroke should be just about an inch measured at the pushrod. If less, check for air and cracked firewall (flexing when the clutch is pushed). A bent fork will mess with you, too.

 

Sidebar: We check the release with the engine off and the ability to spin the output in high gear with the clutch down. This is done first- bolt the bellhousing, don't detail the job until you prove it releases properly. Saves time if it's got to come back apart.

 

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A loooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong time ago I took an old clutch master reservoir cap, drilled out the vent hole and installed a brass nipple to accept a small vacuum line. The hole in the cap extended though the rubber seal to allow vacuum to be pulled on the system and still seal the cap to the reservoir.

 

This worked in similar fashion to a cooling system air lift tool.

 

This was before Ford offered the hydraulics pre-assembled, filled and purged.

 

I recall having many F650/750 trucks in with clutch problems for a while and the pre-assembled parts were a Godsend!

+1

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