MIG WELDERS FOR BROKEN EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS

CISCO · November 11, 2012

Im looking to buy the best and inexpensive mig welder to do broken exhaust manifold broken studs. I was thinking craftsman,harbor freight; just looking for some good advice since I dont know where to begin. Thanks you.

amailloux · November 11, 2012

I use a lincoln powermig 135 I bought at home depot. I have used it for welding 1/4 plate with flux core, and sheet metal with Argon/CO2. For a 110V welder it has been awesome. It works great for broken studs as well. My buddy has a Lincon made Matco that is very similar and loves his as well. Another tech in our shop bought a harbor freight model and it has never worked. I say budget $450 and get a Miller, Lincoln, or other big name welder.

Matt Saunoras · November 12, 2012

I agree, you can't go wrong with name brand. If you ever have problems with your welder you'll be much better off dealing with a reputable company like miller or lincoln. MIG takes some getting used to when pulling studs, it generally takes a few times to get the weld to bite good. Say you're pulling an M8 stud. I will build the stud back out just enough to grab it with an 8mm extractor bit. I don't mess around with trying to fit a nut, the less weld on the part the more chance it's going to hold. 110v is fine but now that I've switched up to 220v I'll never go back. Also I highly recommend picking up a small 40cu/ft tank of C25 shielding gas.

Be warned. Once you are the guy with the welder you've opened yourself up to untold amounts of "hey can you fix this?"

here's some pics to sweeten the deal

Aaron · November 12, 2012

I agree, you can't go wrong with name brand. If you ever have problems with your welder you'll be much better off dealing with a reputable company like miller or lincoln. MIG takes some getting used to when pulling studs, it generally takes a few times to get the weld to bite good. Say you're pulling an M8 stud. I will build the stud back out just enough to grab it with an 8mm extractor bit. I don't mess around with trying to fit a nut, the less weld on the part the more chance it's going to hold. 110v is fine but now that I've switched up to 220v I'll never go back. Also I highly recommend picking up a small 40cu/ft tank of C25 shielding gas.Be warned. Once you are the guy with the welder you've opened yourself up to untold amounts of "hey can you fix this?"here's some pics to sweeten the deal

Ain't that the fuckin' truth... LOL

Alex Bruene · November 12, 2012

From what I understand, you want something that will operate at a pretty low amperage... 30 to 50 according to the bolt extraction guy we use. He gave up that info, but he refuses to let anybody know what kind of rod he uses.

Aaron · November 12, 2012

I like pouring the heat into it. Heat the living piss out of the broken piece when you're welding it, hit it with GOOD penetrating oil, and wind 'er out.

Aaron · November 12, 2012

And Alex, try this:

Messer MG600

Alex Bruene · November 12, 2012

And Alex, try this:

Messer MG600

So, from what I can gather, that rod can weld steel to stainless steel... Did I read that right?

batmantech · November 12, 2012

I just used the Clarke weld MIG 130EN on a 5.4 3v. It works fine. If I were to weld other things I think I would upgrade.

mrbudge · November 12, 2012

I use our shop's Miller gas welder and it works ok, but there are times I will bring my Clarke 110v fluxcore welder from home. I find the Clarke's gun is smaller allowing me to get into the more ignorant areas, plus being gasless I can get a better bite on studs that are below the surface. The gas welder doesn't seem to bite well if you don't has a good gas envelope. I can also put a gas bottle on my Clarke, and have used it to weld aluminum. If you want to weld anything big, the 110v welder will not cut it. That is what my 50 year old Forney stick welder is for, crude but effective.

Also if buying an inexpensive mini mig, make sure you get one that that the trigger controls both the feed and power to the wire. The cheap ones with the constant live wire are a real PITA.

Matt Saunoras · November 13, 2012

Cleaning the stud is key when your using shielding gas.

Any mild steel wire or rod will weld to stainless fine, just the weld and base metal will lose the stainless properties. When you introduce carbon (from C02/Argon gas) that pretty much does it for stainless.

Aaron · November 13, 2012

Originally Posted By: Aaron

And Alex, try this:

Messer MG600

So, from what I can gather, that rod can weld steel to stainless steel... Did I read that right?

That's what our 'bolt guy' says he uses.

I've always had pretty good luck with whatever the hell's in the welder.