Jim Warman Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 First message of note is 5566 - <Jan 18 2013 5566 -2013 MKZ - Front License Plate Installation Some 2013 MKZ vehicles may need the front license plate bracket modified in order to install a license plate. Place a license plate in the front bracket andcenter to use as a template. Then drill a 4.75 mm (3/16 inch) hole at both uppermounting locations. Install the license plate screws to secure the license plate. > If they can' t build a license plate bracket for a high end car that works - we are fucking doomed!!! Second is this revision - made more interesting since one of the new jobs in my holding pattern is a 2010 Expedition with P0012, P0022 and P0341 <Jan 19 2013 5567 -2004-2013 5.4L 3V Oil Pressure Specification correction The minimum oil pressure specification for 2004-2010 F-150, 2005-2010 F250, F350, 2006-2008 Mark LT, 2005-2013 Navigator with 5.4L 3V engine is 15psi at idle with engine at operating temperature. Refer to the Online Workshop manual Section 303-01 which been updated with revised specification. > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 WOW....Even the fucking NWT plate has screw holes in the "accepted" North American locations - and they aren't even rectangular! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 how do you "Revise" an oil pressure spec? is that just to get these pigs out of warranty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 Isn't 15psi too light to operate the cam phasers? I'm pretty sure the good aftermarket instructors say 25psi min at hot idle and 40psi at 2000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted January 20, 2013 Author Share Posted January 20, 2013 25 PSI at idle WAS the Ford spec. I think they might be bleeding on engine replacements. Ford invoked TSB 12-07-10 which, if certain conditions are met (without checking base oil pressure) we are to replace the VCT solenoids - which is about as effective as reflashing to get rid of P0088. I think an inportant check is to inspect the cam bearings for wear - if there is an oil pressure concern, you need to cover your ass. Let me know if you need me to post the TSB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 I am stuck on Band-Aid, 'cause Band-Aid's stuck on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 20, 2013 Share Posted January 20, 2013 I am stuck on Band-Aid, 'cause Band-Aid's stuck on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Feb 13 2013 5648 -6.4L Diesel - EGR Cooler Clamp Reuse - Work Shop Manual (WSM) Update Replacing the EGR cooler clamps when servicing an EGR cooler on a F-super duty with a 6.4L diesel is no longer required. WSM section 303-08 has been updated with new vertical and horizontal EGR cooler removal and installation procedures.The EGR cooler clamps will no longer be packaged with a replacement EGR cooler, but can be obtained as an individual part if needed. Not sure about everyone else, but I started doing this about 6 months after they came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Not sure about everyone else, but I started doing this about 6 months after they came out.GUILTY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 In that camp as well. Lets remove the exhaust manifold to change two clamps. I did actually have one break, on my own truck. Cooler had never been off. Looked down after power washing the engine one day and the forward clamp on the horizontal cooler was hanging there in two pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Lets remove the exhaust manifold to change two clamps. You only needed to remove the 2 bolts that hold the bracket on... I always changed the clamps. I probably will continue to. I have seen reused clamps break on the horizontal cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 According to the shop manual, it tells you to pull the manifold and change the gasket, or at least it used to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 I never did. Just the bracket. If you check the SLTS, the time for both coolers has dropped from 8.3 to 3.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 I never did. Just the bracket. If you check the SLTS, the time for both coolers has dropped from 8.3 to 3.8. That is most likely the reason for the change. Warranty costs getting too high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 I just did a horizontal cooler today too. I'm going to make them claim dipstick tube removal, inlet coolant tube removal and horizontal cooler R&R. None of those OPs overlap each other so we'll see. I ended up flagging 5.7 on the order. If you look in the WSM it has you removing the front studs to slide the cooler into place, actually this worked well, previously I was just loosening the vert cooler. Actually here's a first, never saw a clamp broke but this cooler had a weld cracked and was leaking coolant externally. Plain as day, I even had our other guy look because I didn't believe it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 What I want to know is, where did the change of mind come from? When we went to school, they said it was vital to not reuse the clamps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoWilimek Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 They probably figured out most of us were not replacing the clamps anyhow, so just wanted to stop paying us for it. Probably because some whiz kid bragged he could do it in record time. I personally never replaced the clamps, just used the new nuts on the old ones. All the coolers I replaced had clamps that looked just like new. Also, I leave the oil dipstick in place if it doesn't come out easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 The change probably came because they realized that 6.4s are going out of warranty and by the time the clamps break they'll be out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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