mchan68 Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 I have a request from a guy, whose E-Series I repaired about a year ago for, to possibly diag and replace a faulty injector on said vehicle in thread title. Does anyone have any pics, cautions, or words of wisdom to offer in tackling this task. I've already went to look at this vehicle. It definitely appears that this engine is running on only five of the six cylinders. Unfortunately the Park Brake Light is not working, so I was unable to retrieve the flash codes I vaguely recall reading about here. I did however, manage to find a guy that owes me a few favours who happens to have a scan tool that will communicate with this vehicle to scan it. Once I determine the offending cylinder(s), I'd like to form a game plan as to how to proceed with the repair. This vehicle has about 500,000 kms. (300,000 miles). I went to my local Navistar dealer this morning to price out an injector, but they refuse to without a VIN. So my questions are: Are there any special tools required for such a job? The foreman at this dealer told me that the 4200 truck is the tightest application of this engine. A few have said that valve cover removal is possible with the "doghouse" removed. I was also cautioned about the valve cover-electrical harness. Does this have a UVC harness like a 7.3L, speaking of which I've been told that this engine uses injectors that are similar to? That said, are there any rail plugs to remove in order to drain the high pressure oil before injector removal, or does it utilize a removable rail like a 6.0L? Any other parts other than the injector(s) themselves I need to have on hand before digging in? Should I recommend an oil change after the repair? Sorry for all the questions? Pics would be nice too, if any of you have any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 If it is indeed pre 2004 non emisions then the injectors are identical to a 7.3l.There is a UVC harness connector on the left side of the valve cover that will need to be unplugged.You may have to replace the orings for that.Sometimes you can get away with reusing them.You can squeak out the valve cover without removing the dog coop by removing the AC compressor.Just take it out slow.Be carefull when sliding the valve cover out because it is easy to break the plastic clips for the injector harness.On the back right side of the engine you will have to remove the bolt and the breather from the valve cover.Be sure to get a new oring for that because the old one will not be able to be reused.Once you get the injector removed i usually use a hand vacumm pump with a hose to suck out the cylinders.The oil rail is actually mounted on the left side of the head.Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 Mike's a bunch smaller than I am, but I prefer to pull the doghouse on those, or our 4900's to do anything, especially stuff towards the rear of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robp823 Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 That or if you have a porta power you can remove one of the cab bolts and jack it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichMichels Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 When you pull the valve cover, wear a pair of gloves, the bottom machined edge can be sharp. Don't set the cover back down when you move it out of position, till it's fully off the injectors. The injector harness 'jumps' from injector to injector, if the cover is set on top of the harness it can pull and cut the harness. Give the harness a good inspection for damage. Vac out the cylinder, and bar the engine over when you have the injector out,,,, the H-P oil and fuel will drain into the cylinder when you pull the injector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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