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Injector Stiction Repair

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Interesting, but, sanding the spool valves?

 

I would think that simply cleaning them would be sufficient. I realize 600 grit is pretty fine paper but I would be concerned about doing more harm in the long run. Obviously these guys are doing this and having success with it. As for doing this on a customers truck I wouldn't for several reasons... if it were my truck I would probably try it... but then again the injectors in my truck would never get sludged up in the first place.

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I think with the time involved; labour charge to do this; it gets close to being more economical to just replace the injector, for the little bit extra money wise. I always like seeing Vice Grips laid out in the how to videos; precision tooling at its finest !

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Well, they lost me at the fact that there's a pair of fucking VISE GRIPS being used instead of the proper size wrench or socket.

 

 

Damn. Treed, didn't read all of your post Jeff! LOL

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I'm staying out of that one. I sold a guy a cleaned intake on the org boards and I brought him to the shop to pick it up. He was trying to convince me to take out my injectors and clean them. I could have stood there and argued with him for hours and he wouldn't have got it... so I didn't say anything.

 

The liability issue is huge. what happens when one of those spool valve nuts backs out and finds its way into somewhere it shouldn't. I'll stick with ford reman injectors with a 12/12 parts warranty.

 

If anyone else understands the inner workings of an injector I would like to know what else wears out on the inside as a result of normal use.

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  • 1 month later...

I decided to try the spool valve refurb on my own truck. I only dismantled the solenoids and then used 600 grit to polish the spool valves. I used a Dremel and ground a faint groove on the closed end on spool to sort of replicate the groove in solenoid stop plate that was added on the reman'd ones 2-3 years back.

The ever worsening morning sickness is totally gone and the throttle response is PERFECT.

 

I knew I was due for a new set of injectors and I was going in for dummy plugs and standpipes so I decide to try this before dropping the huge coins on a set. My only complaints were morning sickness and a nagging misfire loaded heavy.

I've done a couple thousand miles so the jury will be out for a long time as to what the longevity is. I do know that it fixed a problem I have had with heavy load hauls giving me a transient misfire on grades.

No way this would be reliable repair on customer vehicle as you wouldn't know the true history of the vehicle like you do with your own.

Now I'm off to watch some more Macgyver re-runs to get more technical training.......

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If anyone else understands the inner workings of an injector I would like to know what else wears out on the inside as a result of normal use.

 

 

Better late than never.

 

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Worn intensifier piston, high miles:

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Mild wear on fuel plunger:

 

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Intensifier piston, high miles, heavy wear:

 

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Sticky spool valve:

 

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Tired plunger:

 

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Tired intensifier piston:

 

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PaRTS:

 

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  • 9 months later...

I decided to try the spool valve refurb on my own truck. I only dismantled the solenoids and then used 600 grit to polish the spool valves. I used a Dremel and ground a faint groove on the closed end on spool to sort of replicate the groove in solenoid stop plate that was added on the reman'd ones 2-3 years back.The ever worsening morning sickness is totally gone and the throttle response is PERFECT.I knew I was due for a new set of injectors and I was going in for dummy plugs and standpipes so I decide to try this before dropping the huge coins on a set. My only complaints were morning sickness and a nagging misfire loaded heavy.I've done a couple thousand miles so the jury will be out for a long time as to what the longevity is. I do know that it fixed a problem I have had with heavy load hauls giving me a transient misfire on grades.No way this would be reliable repair on customer vehicle as you wouldn't know the true history of the vehicle like you do with your own.Now I'm off to watch some more Macgyver re-runs to get more technical training.......

 

 

Ok, this is embarrasing...but here goes. My own trucks only complaint was morning sickness too. I decided to try this on bank 2 because #4 and #6 showed the most drop when cold on IDS. I used 1000 grit sandpaper to lightly polish the spool valves because I thought 600 was too coarse for such delicate work. Now somewhere on the youtube video, it is mentioned that he is careful to only sand the OUTER lands of the spool. Well, in all my wisdom, I decided a little polish with 1000 grit on ALL the lands would not hurt! It started and ran perfect, till it warmed up and stalled. The injectors were pouring so much oil through the returns, I had a hot stall with no restart till it cooled down. Anyway, now I have four Ford reman injectors in there and the later standpipe/dummy plugs! It runs like a top...just cost more than I set out! You make a better Macgyver than me! Still, being my own truck, I'd try it again, minus the idiocy on my part!

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The stiction problem is caused by wearing in/polishing of the spool valve end to the solenoid armature, making the spool valve act like a spit-on radar detector suction cup on a windshield when the oil is cold.  This causes the valves to delay in responding to the solenoid's magnetic pull, which retards effective injector timing on the affected injector(s) and makes the response sluggish.  Sanding or grooving the ends of the spools fixes the problem because it breaks the seal of the suction cup - just as an old split suction cup for the radar detector no longer will stick to the windshield no matter how many times you spit on it. The polishing happens faster with sooty, dirty oil because it laps the ends of the spools faster.

 Hey, thanks. I was under the impression it was "buildup" on the spool lands. Good to know for next time. (grin)

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The stiction problem is caused by wearing in/polishing of the spool valve end to the solenoid armature, making the spool valve act like a spit-on radar detector suction cup on a windshield when the oil is cold. This causes the valves to delay in responding to the solenoid's magnetic pull, which retards effective injector timing on the affected injector(s) and makes the response sluggish. Sanding or grooving the ends of the spools fixes the problem because it breaks the seal of the suction cup - just as an old split suction cup for the radar detector no longer will stick to the windshield no matter how many times you spit on it.

 

The polishing happens faster with sooty, dirty oil because it laps the ends of the spools faster.

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Excellent post sir. I am going to use this as an explanation to customers.

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