Edge door latch replacement

[Brad Clayton]

2011 Ford Edge with a faulty door ajar switch requires the latch to be replaced as the ajar switch is integrated with the latch.The driver’s door panel is removed first. There are a total of three Phillips head screws, two at the bottom of the door panel and one on the upper front of the panel.

 

 

Next the window switch is removed. It is hinged at the front so it needs to be pried out at the rear of the bezel (red arrow). This allows access to the 10mm bolt that needs to be removed (yellow arrow).

 

 

Next the upper portion of the door pull cover needs to be removed. It is hinged at the bottom so it gets pried out from the top to access the 10mm bolt in the recess (red arrow).

 

 

Now the panel can be removed from the door. It has regular push pins so it gets pried straight off the door and then lifted off the belt line molding. The door lock control and the power mirror switch need to be unplugged and then the panel is free from the door.

 

 

There are two grommets in the end of the door. The lower grommet gets removed (red arrow) to reveal a T-25 screw. This screw gets loosened just enough to allow removal of the key cylinder cover, do not fully remove the screw. Next remove the 3 door latch bolts while working at the rear of door.

 

 

Now the door handle can be removed by pulling out on the rear of the handle and sliding in the direction of the red arrow.

 

 

Next remove this torx screw completely with a T-27.

 

 

There are 2 grommets covering the bolts that hold the window glass to the regulator. The rear bolt is just to the right of the inside door handle cable pass through and the front bolt is just above the door speaker. Use a T-30 to LOOSEN the bolts just enough to allow the window glass to disengage from the regulator. Do not remove the bolts as the regulator has a clamp style retaining device for the window.

 

 

Now the 10 bolts can be removed so that the door module can be removed from the door. I suggest using hand tools or a cordless drill that does not have an impact action (unlike what's pictured here). The riv-nuts that these fasteners thread into can break loose very easily. If this happens they will spin and the fastener will not come out.

 

 

Make sure the window is completely to the top of the run. I like to use painters tape to keep the window up. This window is down about 2 inches as seen by the red arrow and will make it very difficult to get the door module clear of the door.

 

 

Two reasons the window needs to be fully up, it will allow easier access to unplug the door key pad harness and it will allow the door lock cylinder to clear the door more easily so the cylinder can stay in its housing.

 

 

At this point the door module is out of the door but it is still tethered by the wiring harness. I am only replacing the latch so the door module can stay where it is and the harness does not need to be disengaged from the “A” pillar to allow full removal of the door module.

 

 

The new latch is on the left.

 

 

The old latch is already removed and the new one is being installed. This photo shows the retaining mechanism. The latch slides in the groove (red circle) and slides into the tab and clips in (red square).

 

 

But before the latch is secured to the door module, the inside door handle cable gets hooked up.

 

 

Next the inside door lock rod (red arrow) needs to be “threaded” into the top hole of the latch and then the latch can be secured to the door module. Then the outside door handle rod (yellow arrow) can be engaged in the green retaining clip.

 

 

The latch electrical connector gets plugged in.

 

 

The key cylinder rod gets “threaded” into the latch and then clipped into the cylinder.

 

 

Now the vehicle can be reassembled and one trick I employ to facilitate the process is to use the key as a lever which will help to align the hooks with the sheet metal as shown.

 

 

The rest is just the reverse of disassembly. I check each electrical component for proper operation and check all handles and the key, clean the window and release the vehicle.

[Matt Saunoras]

sigh, unfornately I'm all too familar with this process.

 

And yes a long time ago I did learn the hard way not to impact the 10mm bolts out.

[batmantech]

I have also learned the hard way NOT to use impact drivers on the module bolts. The nuts that are riveted into the the door are cheap and spin and are a next to imposible to remove when stripped.