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6.7 egr cooler failures

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I can not find a post that talked about egr cooler failures be the next big thing. I can't remember who posted, but I am wondering how they are failing, are they just plugging up with carbon or are they leaking coolant internally.

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OK, we have a pattern failure here. What are the custs complaining of- CEL? Driveability problems? Smoke? Sluggish? If it's not DTCs what leads you to the cooler?

 

 

Please chime in with why these trucks are showing up with coolers clogged.

 

Anyone cleaning them, or do they all get a double bundle?

Thanks, guys, I appreciate it greatly. Keith sent me some excellent pics showing a clogged core.

 

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Bruce, the picture I sent you was a cooler out of a 2011 F350 6.7L that had an intermittent check engine light on. The code in memory was a P0401 with no codes produced by KOEO & KOER self tests.

 

TSB 12-6-14 has us perform a key on engine running (KOER) self test and asks if DTC P2457 is present. If not, the TSB does not apply. But then you go ahead and perform the appropriate pinpoint tests and come up with nothing. Contact the Hot-Line and you spend more time performing more tests and come up empty.

 

By this time the truck is already down 2 days and the customer wants his truck back so you clear the code and return the truck to service. A week or a month later it returns with the Check Engine light on, P0401 in memory. I have gone through this with three trucks now. I decided finally to pull the cooler anyway and what you saw in the pictures is what I found.

 

I replaced the core and the truck is gone. I suppose cleaning could have worked but I don't know of an effective way to clean inside of the passages. What's more is we don't know what is causing this to happen to an otherwise healthy EGR cooler and engine. Running well, no wetness in the exhaust, no coolant leaking...

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No driveability concerns. Just CEL on and lacks power. All of ours have high idle switches and barely get shut off. Anything with a P0401 here gets a cooler if the bypass is working. We have had one with a broken bypass valve so far.

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The HD fleets are cleaning them with some success in similar circumstances when they are out of warranty. Here is a presentation that was given out at TMC in maybe 2011 with a little bit of info:

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I guess the main question is can these 6.7L coolers be cleaned. How far does one disassemble the cooler? If you remove the bypass valve you have to replace all the gaskets, which means a complete disassembly at that point. I suppose one could remove the rear cover and just the EGR valve. Would the cleaning process affect the rear orings? I can see this being beneficial on 6L and 6.4L, due to the construction of the cooler, but I have doubts with the 6.7L. Our regional trainer was inquiring about whether it would be worth attempting, especially since they seem to get back ordered all the time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

When GM first put EGR coolers on the LMM D-Max in late 07 they had this issue. You were supposed to pull them, clean with simple green, install, and re-test.....Clock the time.....replace it on the first go...and fix the truck for the guy.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, figured ill post some more 6.7L EGR cooler failure pictures. We have done multiple egr cooler repairs on fleet municipal pick up trucks used in street operations, I take it they idle a lot. Observations during repair were bent egr bypass valve doors and for some reason second half of cooler plugs up. Is the egr cooler setup maybe to effective at times... :scratch:

egr1.jpg

egr2.jpg

egr3.jpg

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I get to attack my very first one tomorrow. But this one did set a P2457 during KOER.

If you can get your hand over the intake manifold to get at the EBP tube, don't remove the upper intake. The cooler slides out with it in place. I am seriously considering trying to leave the EBP tube attached to the up pipe on my next one.

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If you can get your hand over the intake manifold to get at the EBP tube, don't remove the upper intake. The cooler slides out with it in place. I am seriously considering trying to leave the EBP tube attached to the up pipe on my next one.

I leave the intake on too but getting the nut backed off the EP tube bracket is indeed a booger... I don't know if removing the right front tire and wheel well to loosen the fitting is a decent trade-off. Not sure you can get at it without doing that. **

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I leave the intake and fenderwell in place. I have small enough hands I can reach over in and get the EBP nut loose. My biggest fight is getting the wiring harness off the lower stud on the backside of the cooler.

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