Andy Christensen Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 We have a 2005 6.0 come into the shop today with a pretty severe oil leak. Have traced the leak to a possibility of the HPOP cover. Have a couple of students going to get on that tomorrow. My question is, could they remove the HPOP without removing the intake? I have heard that it could be done with small hands for the bolts underneath intake. Is that possible? Thanks. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 You do not need to remove the intake or the egr cooler to access the HPOP on an 05+ F-series (excursion may be different depending on build date) What I do is remove the turbo, pedestal, and loosen the EGR cooler to up-pipe clamp, loosen one up-pipe to manifold bolt on each side and push the whole Y back to the firewall. This should give enough clearance to get the rear heat shield out without mangling it and the pump cover will come out fairly easily. Before you get too far go down below and take a peak up at the top of the rear cover on the right side. What you're looking for may be an STC that dislodged and has cracked the rear engine cover. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 A visual document of what Matt is talking about: hpop cover removal (1).pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 You cheated, there's no truck wrapped around that engine. Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Haha, I prefaced it with engine removed for clarity purposes only. That was one of my very first documents, hard to believe it's been almost 5 years. By the way, welcome aboard Andy. There are a few teachers and trainers on here and it's an all around good place to hang out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 I always cut the passenger side heatshield mount off . Makes for a way easier removal and installation. I never touch any of the y-pipe to exhaust manifold bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted November 8, 2013 Share Posted November 8, 2013 ^^ you're kidding, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Christensen Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Thank you for the support. Your information was very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 ^^ you're kidding, right? Nope. I've been doing it since the first aluminum pump cover I ever touched back in 2005. But only on F's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I have to say that I find messing with y-pipe bolts to be absolutely aggravating - always have and to the point that it pisses me off. It must be the rust I encounter here in New Jersey. I also find sneaking a wrench under the EGR cooler to be a royal pain in the ass as well. For me, it is just as easy to remove all of the intake manifold bolts and lift it up. You don't remove it or remove the filter housings either. What's the old saying? Six of one, half dozen of the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 9, 2013 Share Posted November 9, 2013 I have seen a guy working on a 2004 unbolt the intake with the alternator/belt still attached and let the tension of the belt lift the rear of the intake/EGR cooler to access the cast iron pump cover. I very rarely see a 6.0 intake that isn't in need of a good cleaning so anytime I'm in the area of the EGR system I address it, same with the turbo, if it's off, I'm cleaning it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 I have to say that I find messing with y-pipe bolts to be absolutely aggravating - always have and to the point that it pisses me off. It must be the rust I encounter here in New Jersey. I also find sneaking a wrench under the EGR cooler to be a royal pain in the ass as well. For me, it is just as easy to remove all of the intake manifold bolts and lift it up. You don't remove it or remove the filter housings either. What's the old saying? Six of one, half dozen of the other? I fought 2 up pipe bolts for about 3 hours last week to replace the short inlet pipe. It was the shoulder type bolts (which I absolutely hate, and always replace with the old style)... I ended up having to torch them off between the manifold and the pipe, then torch off the bolt head, heat the manifold red, and push the bolts up with an air hammer. No amount of effort or heat allowed me to turn the bolts where they went through the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Those shoulder bolts suck. Does anyone have the hardware number for the normal bolts that originally dropped down from the top? I'm so damn tired of arguing with my parts guy about these bolts. Every time he gets me up-pipe bolts its the new kind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Those shoulder bolts suck. Does anyone have the hardware number for the normal bolts that originally dropped down from the top? I'm so damn tired of arguing with my parts guy about these bolts. Every time he gets me up-pipe bolts its the new kind. -W300013 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Another useless piece of information would be those with the shouldered type bolts are yet another way of identifying a 6.0L with a 20mm dowel block (as opposed to 18mm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Another useless piece of information would be those with the shouldered type bolts are yet another way of identifying a 6.0L with a 20mm dowel block (as opposed to 18mm). yep, It took me a long time putting those two together. The only bolts I would fight where the ones someone else messed up. With the right combination of tools its was cake, then again rust is rare here in the SW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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