Brad Clayton Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 This is how I do 'em. I mount a 1 1/16" socket in a vice and set the injector into the socket. I pry the old oring out. Then push the ferrule down in the bore where the oring used to reside. Now this circlip could be a real nitemare to dig out with a pick. I use the method Alliant Power uses instead. So there are two ways to go about this, remove the ring, the ferrule, and the oring or just sneak the oring in and out with the rest in tact. I like to remove all the stuff and clean it up a bit. I take a small center punch and, using my jeweler hammer , give the ring a couple of taps opposite of the opening. I end up with something like this: the ring will bow up on both sides (green arrow) perpendicular to the punch area (red arrow). The ring can then be easily pried out with a pocket screw driver. Next, I retrieve the ferrule with a pair of duck bill pliers. I use these instead of a 90 degree pick to prevent scratching things up. I lube up the new oring and install it. Next, the ferrule goes in bevel side up for obvious reasons. I gently seat every thing with a socket. I install the circlip by using the same method to mount a tire to a rim. I start the ring between the 3 and 4 oclock positions and then hold it with a pair of needle nose pliers and then roll the clip in with the wide blade of my pocket screwdriver in the direction of the arrow. All set and ready for main body orings before reinstallation. Now for the oil rail, I don't do one without the other. I start by bolting the rail down to my bench. This bench has holes in it here and there, so I bolted on the end and wedged the other end against my trans holder. Closer view of removed components. I got these oring kits from Moonlight Diesel in Utah. Going back together, I unbolt the rail from the bench, clean and then bolt it back up with it wedged the opposite way so I can tighten the snot out of the nips. I really like this repair kit and the rail has a seriously positive engagement to the injectors on reassembly. These rails could be lifted up by hand before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Do you have a part number for this kit, and the place where you sourced the kit? It's obvious that such kits don't exist from Ford. BTW, judging by the condition of the rail and injector in your pics, this vehicle likely didn't have oil changes done on schedule, likely leading to the cause of said failures in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I will be attmepting this if the need ever arises. How much labor should we be charging for this repair? I typically do 6 hours to r&r f-series injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 The upper o ring and snap ring for the injector comes in the Alliant power injector seal kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Looks like you need to pick up a jeweler's punch there Sparky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blown99 Posted January 4, 2014 Share Posted January 4, 2014 I keep all these parts in stock, including the tool to remove the nipple retainer. I also have just the o-ring for behind the nipple if your customer does not want to replace the nipple. I offer the bostech brand nipple kit, the alliant o-ring kit for both the nipple and injector internal seal. Shoot me a pm for pricing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 You said nipple kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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