mchan68 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Okay, I'm not sure where to post this but since it originally came in for a rough running concern, I'll post it here. Vehicle is a 2008 F-350 Cab & Chassis with a box and powered lift if it matters. Vehicle started and ran fine. Brought it into the shop and ran a self-test. Only DTC retrieved was P1335 by itself. Verified EGR valve faulty when EGR VP indicated 3.32 volts at KOEO. Ordered part Friday. Since then, the truck sat inside the shop in one of my bays, never being so much as having the engine started, let alone moved. This morning, when the part arrived, I installed the EGR valve and attempted re-run a self-test and clear the DTC. When I went to turn the key to the RUN position, only the air bag warning indicator illuminated, I get no PRNDL, or any other warning lights, nor chimes. Thinking I had a low voltage issue, I checked the batteries and they're fine. I even jumped the starter wire and the engine cranks nice and fast. Checked pins 6 AND 14 of the DLC, and get 58.3 ohms. Finally, I ran a Network Test, and I'm getting IC: FAIL, PCM: FAIL, U2011 ABS, U0115 ABS, U0155 ABS, ABS: PASS, GEM/SJB: PASS, RCM: PASS and TCM: PASS. Unplug C220 and the reading goes to 120 ohms, which is normal if I understand correctly. Checked C220-7 and C220-8 for continuity to C251-6 and C251-14 which checked out good. C220-1 and C220-14 have 12 volts, and C-220-6 has good ground. Next step says replace IC. I don't buy it!!! I repeat, NOTHING was touched on this truck from the Friday morning, until this morning when the EGR valve arrived. Now, apparently I have a blanked PCM and IC?!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Have you tried unplugging the EGR valve and see if it all comes back? New doesn't always mean good. Funny thing too, with the old valve reading 3.32V KOEO, if it was truely open like that reading states, it should not have started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 120 ohms is the termination resistance of the network. If it has a TBC unplug that first. Then other non essential modules to see what's killing the network. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Excuse my lack of connector number knowledge... But, did you check the 3 connectors on the left frame rail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 120 ohms is the termination resistance of the network.If it has a TBC unplug that first. Then other non essential modules to see what's killing the network. It doesn't have a trailer brake controller, factory or aftermarket. The 120 ohm reading was obtained once I unplugged C220 (the instrument cluster connector). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Excuse my lack of connector number knowledge... But, did you check the 3 connectors on the left frame rail? That's C220 (instrument cluster) and C251 (DLC). And yes I did check the 3 connectors on the framerail. I even checked the infamous chafe point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Which chafe point? There seems to be two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Well, the new cluster arrived. As soon as I plugged it in, BAM!!! the chimes and all warning indicators came back to life. Now, I have to find a way to re-load the calibration back into the PCM. It seems to resume communication with the PCM after playing around with IDS a bit, but the engine won't crank with the key, or start using the jump starter with the key in the RUN position. I'll assume I need to do a PATS parameter reset perhaps??? And all it did was drive into the shop and sit through all weekend that caused the cluster to blank out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Call hotline they will walk you through a "blank path program" forcing programming using the tear tag. Double click the vin on OASIS in the top left corner and it will open up a window and the tear tag will be listed there. Easier than yanking out the PCM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 It ended up being easier than that Aaron. I began a new session and did a PATS erase and reset. I then deleted that session and resumed the incomplete session where all this bullshit began and now life is good again. It still boggles my mind how the IC just mysteriously failed from just sitting inside the shop over the weekend with NOTHING touched. The bigger issue, is the fact the cluster is NOT covered under warranty, and having to explain that they need to pony up for the repair without them thinking I fucked it up somehow (which I have no problem owning up if that was the case). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 I recently had a truck that lost the ic after pulling in cold. Come in next morning no communication find ic dead pulling down network. Sent ic out for repair. Cluster repair guy said easy repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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