amailloux Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 We are in the severe service category here. We are still using 10-30 in all engines unless the customer requests. No biodiesel around, but the very cold starts make me think the 5-40 should be used. What are you guys using. There is a significant price difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 10w30 unless stated by the customer. some run 5w40 synthetic, a few run 0w40 synthetic. Price wise I couldn't tell ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 0W40 Delvac. The oil costs more, but it's also less wear and tear on batteries, starters etc. Plus, at -40 to -50 if my truck needs to start then I like to give it every advantage possible. The 0W40 retails for ~$50/gallon, although my parts department manages to keep my cost a fair bit lower than that. Also, if you're thinking that this type of oil is needed then I hope the trucks have a pan heater and battery pads to go along with the block heater. More talk here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 5w-40 is all my truck has run on since I owned it, cold start or not it's better oil all around. I believe the 6.0 injectors greatly benefit from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I put 10W30 in everything except for 7.3s... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 We have seen -20s this year, and way excessive idle times. I was curious if the turbo failures and bearing failures may be less using the 5-40. I started a 6.7 yesterday at 5 above f and it ran right up to 1200 rpm and the engine had a faint growl, almost a knock for a few seconds. This appears to be the norm for the 6.7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 I like how there's no time for the engine to move oil about on the 6.7 before it ramps right up to 1200. Should be good for longevity in extremely cold environments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseldoc Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 I cringe every single time I start my 6.7 and it goes to high idle right away. I really wish ford would change this part of the calibraitons, give it two minutes like the old trucks to get oil moving through out the entire engine. My wifes 08 escape does the same thing though, makes you wonder what the reasoning they have for that. . . . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 What if you start it with your foot on the brake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Tapping the brake doesn't appear to bring the high idle down like it would on a 6.0 or 6.4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Wow that's gotta be hard on shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Such as.........tangless bearings? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 10w30 and 15w40 depending on the truck, I typically follow the severe duty schedules for most of our vehicles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Such as.........tangless bearings?Bingo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy57 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 If the bearing gets inadequate oil supply tangs on bearings might a few revolution difference. The cursh of the shells by the cap is what holds bearings. The tangs were done so people assembling engines had built-in location gauge. WIth machine assembly or hand assembly with newer tools they leave the tang out and gain a bit of strength for the powdered metal fractured cap rods, Fractured cap does not lend itself to tang grooves. I didn't make this crap up. This was the background info 20+ years ago I got when working as trainer and tech support for a car manufacturer. The tangs went away before fractured cap rods were introduced on their engines. It was odd as they had tangs on mains but not on rods. The mains were selective sized based on crank finish and block finish and as a result the mains were laid in by humans. Rods were robotic assembly. I also hate engine start up with immediate high idle. I wonder if it is as bad as we think it is. The load on rods and mains may not be much different at all between 700 and 1200 RPM. The oil pump time to pressure may be related to rotations and not to time so the engine may be turning the same turns before bearings get oil regardless of the higher idle start. It still bugs me. 7.3 and 6.0 certainly had time to for oil pump to get head start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 We sell Motorcraft oil unless customer has a preference. 7.3 get 15W40 in summer and 0W30 in winter. 6.0 gets 10W30 summer and 0W30 winter. 6.4 gets 10W30 low ash (unless they found something else by now). And I can't remember what we were putting in 6.7s. Disclaimer - I haven't worked much since last March. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 ...And I can't remember what we were putting in 6.7s. Disclaimer - I haven't worked much since last March. Jim, we put oil in them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 ...And I can't remember what we were putting in 6.7s. Disclaimer - I haven't worked much since last March. Jim, we put oil in them too. Well, of course.... but is it the recommended stuff? Pop quiz... anyone know the origins of Castrol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Sure. It's the slippery stuff in the bottle... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Actually, it goes back to the days when bean oil was the good stuff, Kieth. The smell of a car with castor bean oil in the tank was indescribable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Pop quiz... anyone know the origins of Castrol? Recently on History Channel I watched a show about WW1 era planes with open valvetrain radials, the black goo on the pilot's face and goggles was castor oil drooling off the rockers and into their face. The laxative effect of the castor oil frequently cause their pants to be full after a flight. How's that for a thread hijack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Bruce, early engines (particularly aero engines) are a fascinating obsession of mine. Those early rotary and radial engines featured a "total loss" lube system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 I just found out that the FMPP program will cover 5w40 synthetic oil in severe/extreme conditions, which is mostly all of the northern States and Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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