Josh Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 We have a 2004 king ranch 6.0 crank no start. had studs and egr delete done some time ago. owner says its a bear to start when cold. then it wouldnt start at all. took to another dealer and they said only building 103 psi hpo. I got it now and it has p0198, and all passenger side bank glow plug circuit codes. i tried another gpcm and codes didnt go away. I put a new IPR in it to see if it would start, and now im building 1,300 psi oil, ficm sync good, ficm Mpower good, when its cranking it bellowing white/grey/black smoke from tailpipe. it acts like it wants to start but just wont. we checked fuel pressure with homemade gauge it it goes over 100psi koeo, then after 18 seconds of key being on you hear the pump like shut off or sucking. the fuel press drops.. any ideas. BTW jerry (rig) him self has been all over this truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Also tried another known good ficm, for shits and giggles. Still nothing. When cranking is spins a little fast and smokes a lot and it wants to try to start. But won't. Not even with ether Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 I would be curious to know what that EOT pid is reading. Does this thing have a block heater? Plug it in an let it warm to see if it starts any easier. I do believe that's the highest fuel pressure reading I've heard of yet. I'm usually lucky to get 45 PSI around here. I hate to be the negative grim reaper type but spinning fast/smoking/very hard to start cold, sounds like a dusted engine with equally low compression across all 8 cylinders. If you can finally get it to "bust off" then I would do a crank case pressure test before anything else. I had one acting similar and this reading was at idle. It would peg the gage at WOT. A short block was needed to fix this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 We've tried the block heater. I've taken the regulator off too because the 100 psi fuel press. Changed spring for the heck of it. No change. Like I said it goes to past. 100 psi on our homemade gauge 0-100psi them after 15 secs you will hear the pump make a loud sucking noise and press drops. Everything looks ok at hfcm. Owner said it ran great and not rough before it just died. The ipr I took out of it, the screen was sucked in and the plastic ring that holds the screen was warped, never seen one like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 It sounds to me as though we are jumping around here - you are a young tech - some things here don't support the idea that you are following a diagnostic routine. Don't be insulted as that is not my intention. You found some things wrong and that is good, take care of the obvious first. This is where following the Hard Start or No Start Diagnostic Procedures in the PCED methodically and properly guide you. You do know that with the KOEO the fuel pump cycles on and if the engine does not start the PCM will turn it off after 20 seconds. Home made fuel pressure gauge. I would ignore it and install the proper pressure/flow tester to the secondary fuel pressure housing and follow any subsequent fuel pressure tests as required. The maximum fuel pressure the HFCM will put out if I recall correctly is around 100 PSI therefore if you still get a reading that high with the system hoses all properly connected it indicates a problem, Even so, with 100 PSI the engine should run It sounds like this truck has multiple problems - take it one at a time. Once everything is addressed I, like Brad would look at base engine. If you can't get it to start and check crankcase pressure it might be wise to manually check compression, regardless of whether or not the relative compression test reveals anything. That will only compare the cylinders to each other but not tell you what the baseline compression is or the general health of the engine. Only the crankcase pressure and manual compression tests will do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 At 100 psi also, would indicate the return side of the fuel system is blocked. There was a diagnostic step that had us do this if I recall rightly and it remember the gauge tipping around the 100psi mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Have we verified the oil level/quality? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Oil/level quality good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Fuel quality is good also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Air filter isn't plugged with a squirrel nest/squirrel/birds/small child? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 If it won't start with ether I would say you have a serious compression or air/exhaust in or out issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Fuel quality good. I've checked the throttle plate in intake also. Air filter good. I have both CAC pipes off also. Going to get a adapter and check compression Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 If it won't start with ether I would say you have a serious compression or air/exhaust in or out issue. Last diesel I had that wouldn't run off go-go juice only had 185PSI compression across all 8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Are you sure there isn't any gas in the fuel? When I have one that tries to start and smokes most of the time the fuel gauge reads full because they just topped it off with gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Very good point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Second the dusted engine theory as well as a blocked fuel return. The test Aaron is refering to has you block the return line at the pump, install a gauge at the pump outlet and have the flow tester at the upper filter housing. You run the engine with the flow tester open to check secondary filter restriction, you need the flow tester open because the test bypasses the regulator and will peg at 100PSI if you don't give the fuel somewhere to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 doing compression test on passenger side. The gauge will spike up to around 200 psi or so, then drop instantly. It wont hold a reading? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Is there a schrader in the end of the hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 gauge was messed up. All cyl. have 350-400 psi compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Like Kieth mentioned. It may be a good time to start with the no start diag from the PC/ED - hopefully before you get too far in or too frustrated. Points to ponder - ICP pressure is a computed value where ICP volts is an actual sensor reading. If the PCM doesn't like ICP volts, It will start making shit up as far as ICP pressure is concerned - check ICP volts before cranking as well as during cranking. Same deal with M_PWR (check L_PWR AND V_PWR at the same time) - check it while cranking. You don't say that you fixed your glow plug concern. Try plugging in the block heater for a few hours if you don't have a good glow plug system. The key here is to follow the diag process carefully - jumping from one thing to another is non-productive, costly and can have us missing important clues and/or steps. Good luck with your problem child. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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