Brad Clayton Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Lately, I haven't been able to get any of the bolts out. They're even breaking in the EGR valve! I'd like to meet the guy that decided M6 bolts would be large enough for the application, and kick him in the nuts! I don't think it's so much that they aren't large enough. I think it's that they didn't put anything on them. Or they loctited them in. I laughed when the directions said to use loctite on the bolts into the egr valve, then I smeared them up with anti-seize and screwed them in, The shop manual states to apply loc-tite only to the bracket bolt that goes into the egr cooler. This is extremely important and must be done to prevent the bracket from coming loose, allowing the egr supply pipe to wiggle around and break, and then set fire to the surrounding plastic bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 How do you get to the brackets and harness on the back of the cooler if you don't pull the intake?First, I stick a long pry-bar in there to pop off the plastic harness retainer off of the EP sensor bracket support stud then I shove my right meat hook in there with a 10MM ratcheting box wrench on the end of it and back the bolt off. I don't see the problem here. The other retainer comes off as you pull the harness out because... What I DO remove is the PCM and the metal bracket that supports the harnesses near there - this provides enough room to lift the cooler out and also makes it much easier to access the fasteners on the right side of the cooler not to mention those stupid plastic retainers holding the sound insulator over the right valve cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_Kelsoe Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I've gotten pretty good lately where I don't even have to remove the intake or PCM to get the EGR cooler out. Guess it helps having small enough hands I can reach back in and loosen the EB sensor tube, then pull the cooler slightly out and get the harness off the studs. I then made a PVC u-pipe to help remove the core from the housing. I've been lucky and only broke the EGR supply pipe bolts once, and I've probably done around a dozen or so coolers, plus several engine tear downs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Lately, I haven't been able to get any of the bolts out. They're even breaking in the EGR valve! I'd like to meet the guy that decided M6 bolts would be large enough for the application, and kick him in the nuts! I don't think it's so much that they aren't large enough. I think it's that they didn't put anything on them. Or they loctited them in. I laughed when the directions said to use loctite on the bolts into the egr valve, then I smeared them up with anti-seize and screwed them in, The shop manual states to apply loc-tite only to the bracket bolt that goes into the egr cooler. egr cooler 21.jpg This is extremely important and must be done to prevent the bracket from coming loose, allowing the egr supply pipe to wiggle around and break, and then set fire to the surrounding plastic bits. Oops. I'll have to catch it at the next oil change. I ain't too worried about it. They do all their maintenance with us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I just had another one come in that caught fire, but the bracket bolt for the pipe was missing instead of the cooler bolt. So I wonder if a dose of medium strength blue is in order for both bolts. The one in the picture above will need some heat to get it apart because I used red stuff. I have since switched to blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordtech03 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I've been having the same trouble with them breaking also. Today I tried using the Snap-On Cordless 1/4" drive impact gun model CT-65, with a deep 8 mm on it. The gun doesn't have enough torque to snap the bolt off, bolt by holding it on and just letting it "impact" it I was able to break both of them loose with no trouble. It probably took a good 30 or 45 seconds, but it was better than the other result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 Have in my bay right now. One bolt started to tighten up on the way out so I ran it in a bit and sprayed it with WD40 to loosen up the threads. The second wouldn't budge so I tightened up the first bolt and did this....... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 And hope you aren't the "next guy" that has to take that pipe off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 I still have been heating the manifold on every one. I could have easily broken every single one since this thread started. It seems like absolutely none of these will budge but a little heat and they come right out. Last week I got in a little hurry and snapped one off that was halfway out, it left me with enough bolt to grab it with an extractor. Once the manifold was warmed up again the rest came out effortlessly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 Ghee, ya know, I haven't broken ONE since I got my Beydler drill guide for the 6.7L EGR pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 It always works that way when you buy a tool for a specific job. I bought one of those fancy injector cup tools almost 8 years ago and I have only used it three times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Lately, I just crack the bolt, then soak it with penetrating fluid. They have been coming out without issue. Now that I've said this, I guarantee the next one will break. Cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006 Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Lately, I just crack the bolt, then soak it with penetrating fluid. They have been coming out without issue. Now that I've said this, I guarantee the next one will break. Cheers! This has been working for me also. Crack the bolt loose, tighten it up a bit to get the threads into a neutral position so the penetrating oil soaks through easier. Wait about 10-15 minutes. I use Aerokroil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 I just use the Ford stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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