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Slotted end caps

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I finally got a chance to see for myself the design change in 6.0 fuel injectors. With all the injector posts lately I've been dying to disassemble one and see for myself. Today I had some free time while waiting for some authorizations.

 

The first picture is what we've all probably noticed. The color difference between solenoids on an OEM injector and a remanufactured injector. Black and yellow being OEM, gray and white being reman. The next 2 pics show the end cap furthest from the connector. Notice the slot which apparently reduces or eliminates spool valve latching.

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Now I am not sure if that is the open or close solenoid that the slot is on. The other end cap is not slotted so I'm sure there is some reasoning behind that too.  I also do not know when they implemented this change or how much it actually reduces stiction related injector failures.  I guess time will tell.

 

I had noticed one time a while ago I picked up a reman injector box and one of the International labels was peaking out stating "with slotted endcaps."  Basically ever since then I've been a little more than curious. 

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Knowing what we know now, about stiction - suction cup theory...

 

Anyone else think that Rev-X shit is just a pile of abrasive that gets added to your oil? Lol

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Rev-x is mostly potassium borate and mineral spirits if I remember correctly. Something about the potassium compound reduces friction in the oil. There was a whole big discussion about it on the org, it has the potential to work but wears out quicker than an oil change. Honestly the inductive heat ficm calibration does way more than rev-x ever could. I found out first hand when I went back to a non-heat strategy.

 

Here are some better pics I snapped this morning.

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It is the closed end.

 

I bought a FOMOCO display vehicle (2006 F450 C&C) that had likely been cranked and run 10 minutes or less dozens if not hundreds of times in the 1500 miles it had on it when I bought it.

I had an intermittent miss when towing that could never be captured.

FInally at 77K miles when I developed a dummy plug leak I decided to explore. I took the injectors out and and ground a slot on the spool  closed end. I also polished the spools with 1000 grit paper and reassembled. I had nothing to lose but my time and the cost of seal kits. I was considering a full Motorcraft reman'd set anyway.

I'm at 95K miles now and it has not missed one time. I had the beginnings of cold stiction before and this winter we had a very bad for Texas winter and it never missed a beat on cold starts. I'm not sure what cured the miss. But one of the two actions, polishing or the occlusion relief slotting, seems to have done it.

I'm not proposing repairing injectors. I was just curious enough to conduct my own experiment.

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I'm all for repairing injectors if you know the full history on the vehicle. I've got a set of reman sticks in my truck now and if they ever start giving me problems I'll yank them out and take a look. Knowing that they've only run on synthetic oil and the cleanest fuel eases my mind a little.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow do I have a prime candidate for some injector spool valve polishing.  A 6.0 I have now is experiencing textbook stiction issues causing the vehicle to barely start and run.  Got it in the shop, plugged it in for 3-4 hours while I did other stuff.  Hooked up IDS, EOT showing 125°F, started up, missed a little at first and flat lined out on power balance.

 

This is our best fleet customer, I am having a very hard time not mentioning it to their supervisor that I may be able to repair these injectors.  I need to sleep on it. 

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