2013 Mustang with most modules fried

YukonTyler · May 22, 2014

The story is that the car was in winter storage under one of those Canadian tire 'garage in a box' type deals. The customer claims to have started it a few times during winter until recently. At that time they found the battery to be dead, attempted to boost it but the car would not start. It was towed in no crank no start.

I replaced the battery. No crank. No ignition power. In the BJB the 10a fuse for the EVAP vent valve and PCM is blown. A new fuse blows immediately. Disconnect the PCM, install a new fuse and it stays good. Also note the 30a slow blow fuse for the audio amplifier is also blown, and a replacement fuse blows immediately. Unplug the amp and a new fuse remains good.

For the no ignition power I go to the SJB and find 6 fuses blown. Upon replacement 3 blow immediately, one of which is for the ignition switch. It smells like the smoke was let out of it down under the kick panel, too.

I ordered a new PCM and a new SJB. Installed both and got them programmed. It now starts and runs. When I do a network test I still have a dead HVAC module, ABS module, BCM B and APIM. The amp is still on order out of the States.

HVAC and BCM B are MS CAN. ABS is HS. APIM is a gateway. The amplifier is not networked.

Struck by lightening? Boosted with reverse polarity? Act of God? lol ..... I've never seen a reverse boost fry anything without also taking out the main fuse. First time for everything though?

So far this is being treated as warranty, but I'm convinced that something stupid happened to this car. I'd love to prove this out as retail. Any ideas?

BigWalt · May 22, 2014

customer is not telling the truth..... :chinrub2:

lmorris · May 22, 2014

I didn't think a car could be struck by lighting due to the tires not providing a path to ground. My guess would be reverse boosting. Or a 24 volt boost from a tow truck.

YukonTyler · May 23, 2014

I didn't think a car could be struck by lighting due to the tires not providing a path to ground. My guess would be reverse boosting. Or a 24 volt boost from a tow truck.

I thought the same thing. They tell you if a high voltage power line is down over your car not to move as the tires provide insulation. Because of this I also like the reverse polarity or high voltage boost options. And like Walt mentioned I don't think that I'm getting the whole story. The customer sure is pissy though. "It's summer and I can't drive my Mustang." Settle down and let me get to the bottom of it.

I monkeyed around with it for an hour this morning before I ordered all of my modules (thankfully they're USA yes instead of no). I got a charging light and at idle my alternator is putting out 11.7 volts. It is a PCM controlled charging system with a Gen Mon and Gen Com lines. At this point I'm not sure if my poor charging is a symptom of incomplete networks or if my alternator somehow contributed to this whole mess. It feels like a chicken or the egg scenario at this point.

I ordered an alternator and I'm going to slap it in prior to replacing the modules. I want to verify proper charging voltage before condemning a bunch more of them there computers, even though a network test with a battery charger hooked up still shows all of those modules incommunicado.

Aaron · May 23, 2014

Buddy rigged it up to a 120v wall socket I bet.

Chad_Kelsoe · May 23, 2014

I didn't think a car could be struck by lighting due to the tires not providing a path to ground. My guess would be reverse boosting. Or a 24 volt boost from a tow truck.

http://www.lightningsafety.com/nlsi_pls/vehicle_strike.html

Jim Warman · May 23, 2014

Carbon black is a conductor used in the manufacture of electronics. It is also used in rubber goods as a pigment giving that nice even black colour. The reason you don't move your car if you are involved with a down powerline is because you shouldn't be moving in the car and around touching stuff. You guys involved in emergency services should be aware of "step potential" and "touch potential".

Lightning can and will strike an automobile though I would expect an obvious witness mark on the outside of the car

Stay safe, guys

Bruce Amacker · May 24, 2014

And if you deal with electric company bucket trucks, they have to be dielectric tested every (?) two years, they push some ungodly voltage through them and measure how much amperage can get through the truck (and tires) to ground. I didn't really commit the amount to memory, but 50KV and 15MA seems to come to mind for the allowed flow. The tires are the critical factor on whether the truck passes or fails.

A while back I had a student's bucket truck touch a high voltage line. The driver in the truck was not hurt, but there was a guy standing next to the cab talking to the driver. The current jumped from the truck to him, killing him.

:grin:

Buddy_M · May 26, 2014

The utility trucks here for the electric company I know on the bucket trucks I've seen come thru are all very clearly labeled on the boom that it is electrically insulated from the lower part and the truck so it should be safe for someone contacting the bed if the bucket or boom were to contact a power line. I don't know if they do any type of testing of them up here on a regular basis however.

YukonTyler · June 8, 2014

After receiving all of my parts (USA availability only on all modules) I got this thing kicked out. In addition to the PCM, SJB, BCM B, APIM, HVAC module and ABS module it required an alternator, battery, both HID headlamp assemblies and almost every conventional light bulb on the car.

The folks are prior approval were none too pleased for my headlamps request in spite of perfect cosmetics. SJB F22 kept blowing unless I unplugged both units due to the park lamp circuit.

Ultimately this was one of the stranger electrical jobs I have come across