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What's In Your Bay - Part V

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Keith Browning

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Wow I was unaware such a thing existed.  I almost never splice in a whole new connector for just the lock that usually breaks.  That's where having old harnesses has saved me in the past but I guarantee none of them have any coil connectors left.

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Wow I was unaware such a thing existed.  I almost never splice in a whole new connector for just the lock that usually breaks.  That's where having old harnesses has saved me in the past but I guarantee none of them have any coil connectors left.

 

Second that. I have never seen (or even thought to ask for) a connector sleeve instead of the full pigtail, and this is coming from a guy who probably bills three or four days worth of work every year just soldering in license plate bulb and 7-pin trailer tow pigtails ; )

 

When you pull up the connector view in the WSM wiring section they'll give you a list of available pigtails for a specific connector. I always look here because it takes me 30 seconds to get the part number compared to the 20 minutes it takes my parts, and in all that time I don't even recall seeing just the shell for any connector.

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I almost always look up my own parts. A lot of time Ford connectors have part numbers on them but it usually takes a magnifying glass to read it. I could not find a part number on the above sleeve but FCA listed it by the vin, it was in the electrical section. As for parts guys finding them most are not skilled enough and the rest are just lazy, they get paid commission. Some times I will get the connector body sent critical since Ford charges freight base on the price of the part it will be peanuts :)

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Matt, there is a line of zip ties that have the "Christmas tree" built onto them, I keep a bag in my toolbox all the time now, especially when working on 6.7s, and any new gas engines, like the ecoboost or the 5.0l. I cant remember the brand of them, but I will look tomorrow.

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I almost always look up my own parts. A lot of time Ford connectors have part numbers on them but it usually takes a magnifying glass to read it. I could not find a part number on the above sleeve but FCA listed it by the vin, it was in the electrical section. As for parts guys finding them most are not skilled enough and the rest are just lazy, they get paid commission. Some times I will get the connector body sent critical since Ford charges freight base on the price of the part it will be peanuts :)

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Got an 01 7.3 here that ate 6.5qts of oil in about 8,000 miles. Not sure what's going on there because we didn't do the last oil change there's no way to know if the correct amount was added.

 

The crankcase pressure test is fine and it's not the turbo filling up the intercooler. No smoke from the tailpipe. Fuel bowl just has fuel in it. No major external leaks. Not sure if an injector could leak and not get oil backed up into the fuel bowl.

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Since we are talking electrical connectors and fasteners a very good source is Mouser http://www.mouser.com/ if I can't find something on there web sight I have had good luck in the past with calling them up.

Matt here is an example http://www.fastener.averydennison.com/uploadedFiles/Avery/Product/Security/CableTieCatalog.pdf page 14 has some push mount ones

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Matt, there is a line of zip ties that have the "Christmas tree" built onto them, I keep a bag in my toolbox all the time now, especially when working on 6.7s, and any new gas engines, like the ecoboost or the 5.0l. I cant remember the brand of them, but I will look tomorrow.

 

I get mine from the 13S12 kits

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Got an 01 7.3 here that ate 6.5qts of oil in about 8,000 miles. Not sure what's going on there because we didn't do the last oil change there's no way to know if the correct amount was added.The crankcase pressure test is fine and it's not the turbo filling up the intercooler. No smoke from the tailpipe. Fuel bowl just has fuel in it. No major external leaks. Not sure if an injector could leak and not get oil backed up into the fuel bowl.

hi matt

 

the '01 has no returns from the heads to the fuel bowl, so the oil that crosses over rarely makes it back to the bowl if the orings or injectors have an issue, at least from what I've seen.

 

a customer of ours with an '02 had a similar issue for a while, usually a gallon plus gone in 3,000 miles. Issue started at around 100k.   Only indication was dark blue smoke showing on cold starts and extended idle hot. 

 

At around 130k, it gelled the fuel during winter, and starved injectors.  It was very difficult to cold start below 40F after. He opted for a new set, oil consumption gone and it starts great now.  As a side note the old injectors, the orings weren't excessively worn or damaged.

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Buried with gm work. 2012 turbo, 2004 injectors, 2015 with a destroyed transfer case and c5 clutch housing cracked on the Allison. 2011 6l80 apart with a pooched pump and debris. Acadia ps pump. 2006 express with a t case run low and the slip yoke welded to the output shaft. 2012 ambulance with front end work, and a 2009 suburban needs an engine at 265,000 miles. Had a complete fuel system declined on a 2011 dmax so I have to reassemble for the customer to pick up. Fuel pressure regulator 1 on the pump full of metal paste. Not even sure if it will run, but they want it put back together. Have a 2010 super duty for maintenance and front end work, also adding a timbren kit on the rear, and a 2015 for maintenance and a dot inspection outside. My advisor informed me that 3 trucks from my best fleet are on there way on from the oil patch for tomorrow.

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Thanks Fred.  I knew the 7.3 was deadheaded and didn't really know if oil could back up into the fuel or not.  I guess if the leak is big enough it might.  I get a very faint oil smell from the exhaust but no visible smoke. 

 

I am leaning towards injectors, either O-rings or an internal leak but either way they have to come out.  We actually have all the tools to bench test 7.3 injectors so I am going to do that if the customer returns with a concern.

 

For now I topped the oil off so after sitting for 5 minutes it sits max level on the stick. They are going to return in 1000 miles to see if any was lost. 

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Started Tuesday on a T800 Kenworth, driver shelled the front drive axle power divider. Swapped out carriers(8000 price tag on a carrier we found out, almost 10k by the time we're done for just parts alone. Also replacing bushings in the rear suspension, no rubber left in one of the axle mounts. Done with day 2 on this truck which should be a 1 day job, doesn't help being sick and still working and pushing myself hard still.

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Pulled this out of an 03 6.0 this morning. Anyone got any idea what caused it? Replaced injector for a miss at hot idle.

IMG_0504.JPG

 

Some of my handy work. Broken exhaust mount on an 04 Taurus.

IMG_0494.JPG

 

Finished up replacing a pair of cracked 6.0 heads and replaced a right side up-pipe on a 6.4. Started my 10 days of Christmas vacation today. Supposed to be putting a left exhaust manifold on an 09 F-250 with a 5.4 at home tomorrow.

 

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I'm on my fourth cab off this month doing a 6.4 fuel system. I wanted to have this thing done today but that didn't happen. I'm buried and the work won't stop coming in. Leaving for buffalo again on the 28th for the hybrid classroom. That kind of counts as a vacation right?

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Pulled this out of an 03 6.0 this morning. Anyone got any idea what caused it? Replaced injector for a miss at hot idle.

Injector sleeve cracked or leaking? I've seen something similar one time I had fuel in the coolant and that was the offending cylinder. The sludge was in the fuel passage though, not in the cup area
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Today an almost antique. 1997 F350 crew cab, 4x4.  7.3 auto.  54,000 miles, all original, no rust anywhere.  Guy just bought it from a friend's widow.  PM service.

 

Found fuel filter housing leaking from rot due to who knows what sitting in the bottom of the housing for so long.  New housing, all the fuel lines to the tandem pump and off it goes.

 

He keeps getting begged by people to sell it.  Looks near showroom.

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Had an 08 e350 roll in with cold start misfires, contribution codes, egr stuck and sticky with coolant, degas bottle leaking, heater quick connects leaking, and a bunch of bolts missing, crap not routed right and a reman turbo sitting on her. Power steering pump leaking, airbag lamp on, fuel level sensor codes, and haven't even lifted it yet to check the front end. By the way it's a quigly 4 wheel drive conversion. Most likely they will fix everything.

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I drove It hard, and had no venting. Also the degas bottle is soft, and will not hold pressure when pressure testing. It is kind of strange how it has failed. With not being able to hold pressure, and not venting I think I am safe. Also I pulled the egr valve out and it is not closing. At 1.09 volts and also failed the maf test right at the lower limit. Being on a 235 hp factory tune I hope it is safe. Should I clean the egr to get it fully closed, install the degas bottle and then pressure check the cooling driving hard. van has only 46000 miles, but had an hour meter installed around 30,000 miles. Hour meter shows 5100 hours. Truck sits and idles for days on end. Should put it at 15000 hours on the long block. They want to keep it as it has all sorts of computers and measuring devices in the back for oilfield use. These things are real turds with the lift kit on em. Like driving an underpowered refrigerator down the highway.

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Eseries are a little safer but they still blow headgaskets. If your pressures are in check then all you can do is fix what you see wrong and then reevaluate.

 

No fuel in the coolant causing the bottle to soften up?

 

They are turds stock but I've ran a few that had f-series tunes in them. Now that's a ride.

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