8WA Sman Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 My trusty ride needed the front wheel bearing repacked,right side had been noisy for a little while. I had the split the inner bearing race with a torch, I also had to replace that side spindle bearing. I guess 6 years is about as long as that grease will last. I had to replace the front driveshaft u-joints, I guess they were only good for 20 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Pulled my fuel filter and the fuel was bluish black in the fuel bowl, hmmmm. Took a fuel sample directly from the frame rail pump, it's clean and clear. I am going to pull and bench test the injectors. I have never done this before but I'm going to give it a try. Cust wouldn't spring for all 8. You're familiar with the center injector o-ring leaking and allowing engine oil to get into the fuel rail, right? Common problem on 7.3s and DTs causing massive oil consumption. 90% of the time it's an o-ring, on rare occasion it's bleeding through the injector itself or the head casting is abraded where the o-ring rides causing leakage. Probably won't show up on a bench test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 6.7 with a secondary filter sucked in, and dirt in the tank, and a leaking primary Rad. Budget truck with a trans that will not move. Actually it hits stall speed in all selector positions even park so the input shaft is not able to turn at all. Might be interesting when I get it torn down. f-150 ps fluid looks like sludge and has metal. a Dmax with water in fuel lamp, cuts out and loses power under acceleration $$$$$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Bruce I'm not really familiar with much of anything 7.3L but I will pull all the injectors and have a look at the orings. I have seen the top oring blown out causing a lack of ICP but never the one separating fuel and oil. We shall see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Pulled these 7.3 injectors tonight. Wow, some of these o-rings are really bad. Most of my bottom orings are completely destroyed and I don't quite understand that. I have 2 middle orings that have some wear on them. Cylinders 5 and 6 I believe had to be leaking oil into the fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredsvt Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Pulled these 7.3 injectors tonight. Wow, some of these o-rings are really bad. Most of my bottom orings are completely destroyed and I don't quite understand that.I have 2 middle orings that have some wear on them. Cylinders 5 and 6 I believe had to be leaking oil into the fuel. Wow, I haven't seen 7.3 injector o-rings that bad in quite some time. At least not since a few early 95, 96 models that were fairly low mileage prior to the upgraded rings Ford started selling. I wonder if those injectors were out before and someone put on Dipaco o-rings? Don't ask me how I know that one..... (less expensive, doesn't mean better) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 '06 F-150 doing several things on it but the rear rotors of all things were really being a pain. The right side I was able to get off by taping two holes into the rotor and using flat puller. The left side pulled my threads out so I called another tech that works on tractors and used their puller. Lets just say one of the reasons why I don't work on heavy stuff is because I would get tired just carrying the tools. I originally had the trans jack there so when the rotor came loose I would NOT end up with puller on my toe. I ended up lowering the vehicle and putting a strap around the puller. I had to use my long snap-on breaker bar to get it to pop loose, I thought I was going to break something. I will check the axle shaft flange for runout tomorrow. If anyone else has had one come off this hard I would take some hints. Reminds me of the 97-99 F series front rotors that I have had to cut off in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy_M Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 For stubborn drums and rotors(and I mean stubborn, have had to do this with light duty all the way up to heavy duty brakes) spray the center pilot and in the lug stud holes with PB Blaster or your choice of penetrant, and with my 16lb sledge alternate hits between lug studs or on the outer rim of the drum or rotor hat. That 16lb has saved my ass, used to have an 18 that was a welded-built up 14lb but it grew legs some time back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I'm bench testing these 7.3 injectors today. All of them are holding good vacuum but 4 and 8 are losing quite a bit of air from the spill ports. Not sure if I should call them or not, all the others are sealed up tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 '06 F-150 doing several things on it but the rear rotors of all things were really being a pain. The right side I was able to get off by taping two holes into the rotor and using flat puller. The left side pulled my threads out so I called another tech that works on tractors and used their puller. Lets just say one of the reasons why I don't work on heavy stuff is because I would get tired just carrying the tools. 2015-01-06 21.11.11.jpg I originally had the trans jack there so when the rotor came loose I would NOT end up with puller on my toe. I ended up lowering the vehicle and putting a strap around the puller. I had to use my long snap-on breaker bar to get it to pop loose, I thought I was going to break something. I will check the axle shaft flange for runout tomorrow. If anyone else has had one come off this hard I would take some hints. Reminds me of the 97-99 F series front rotors that I have had to cut off in the past. Wow! I haven't seen one of those work lights in years. Years and years! They're illegal here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I haven't seen one of those work lights in years. They're illegal here. Wow, I still use one everyday, but I use LED bulbs so they're cool with no fire hazard. They are available at Home Depot and just about every other store here and still popular in shops.... Why are they illegal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I'm bench testing these 7.3 injectors today. All of them are holding good vacuum but 4 and 8 are losing quite a bit of air from the spill ports. Not sure if I should call them or not, all the others are sealed up tight. That's the nastiest set of o-rings I've seen in many years! They also do not look like the current version, they look like one of the previous versions that were updated (several times in the late 90's). It is obvious this is where your oil consumption lies. It's common for the poppet seats to hammer out of these injectors with high miles, if they all look the same and appear OE, ask the owner if they are original. If so, it would be wise to hang a set while you're in there. Poppets hammered out can cause running issues as well as circuit codes because it freaks out the PCM/IDM when the armature bottoms out under the magnet. IH had a problem with this and actually had the techs re-shimming the magnets with the injectors in the truck to get rid of circuit codes. This procedure involved a depth mike and an assortment of aluminum spacers that go between the magnet and the injector body. I am to the point now where I consider injectors maintenance and suggest changing them whenever they do not appear perfect and have 100-150,000 miles or 3000-5000 hours on them. The ramifications of trying to get every last mile out of injectors risks losing a piston or wall when the spray pattern degrades. I am also recommending injectors be changed in complete sets unless the mileage/hours/years on the engine is low. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I too use that old light everyday, there like $12.00 So I don't feel bad when it gets destroyed. 8WA sman IF those rotors still don't budge just pull out the axle shaft lugs down on ground and hit the rotor off. Been doing tons of rear axle bearings lately and every rotor is rusted on...love the road salt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Buddy_M If I was to use a 16lb hammer I would have put weights in my shoes to keep me on the ground. :hammer: My light also has a LED bulbs. batmantech I did get the rotor off. Now I am in the process of replacing the rear pinion seal and flange. Well Ford had the bright idea to update the nut and crush sleeve. Well the outer pinion bearing was stuck to the pinion shaft and the amount of force needed to remove it was more then I would have liked, so now I am also replacing the outer bearing and race. This truck is being a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Thanks for the input Bruce. I'd gladly install 8 injectors but I doubt the truck is even worth that. There weren't any reman injectors in there but #8 had a long lead, not sure if it came with that from the factory being a 2002 MY. All the O-rings were very hard and deteriorated, hard to tell what color they were originally. Finally working at getting the number 7 injector out of my 6.0 ambulance too. Also got an SPW #6 injector on an 06 F-250 and another good customer of mine bought my stage 2 turbo plus he's having me put in a Banks Technicooler in his 07 F-250. Since I'm supposed to be the tranny guy now too I looked at an 07 Edge that has pretty bad torque convertor shudder under lockup. Plus the 10 fusion I'm supposed to overhaul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Matt: PS The reason your lower o-rings are wrecked is because the crush washers are leaking. This thing had to be running like a turd, it should have had compression aerating the fuel rail by the looks of the lower ring. Inspect the sleeves/cups closely, use the special bristle brush to clean them, and replace them if they're not perfect. They should be SS, not brass in 02. Use a torque wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy_M Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Bruce, what's the dates for the switch to stainless or do you have a part number or any other info? I've heard of them supposedly having SS cups multiple times, however I have yet to see stainless cups in a 7.3/T444e application. I've seen them in a DT engine but not the smaller engine, in addition every sleeve I've ever purchased thru my Ford parts dept or IH dealer have always been brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Well my Dmax truck with the fuel system concern had 20" hg on the supply side. I removed the line at the tank and ran the truck and it dropped to 6". Dropped the tank and found a colony of bugs in the pickup, and the fuel smells more like alcohol than diesel. I flushed all of the lines and ran and still had 6". I found the filter head was restricting. I removed the pump and found this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Here is that 18k maxxed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Bruce the injector cups were all brass and the copper sealing washers didn't show signs of leaking combustion gasses. I've never seen a stainless cup or compression seal. I did get it running tonight but didn't get a chance to drive it yet. It's too crazy around here. SPW'd a number 6 injector in a 6.0 only to find out on the post road test I'm getting wild fluctuations in the heat coming from the dash vents. Ruined my cooling system pressure gauge on that one. Waiting to see if they want to buy headgaskets. Pulled the number 7 injector out of the ambulance. Nozzle is split but no pieces missing. Borrowed a borescope to at least check the piston, it looks okay, all the edges are still sharp. Sold the whole right bank plus a HFCM. Also got word that the rear end needs checked when I'm done with that. Got a 6.4 outside that's getting an EGR valve and housing, ball joints, front driveshaft, BPA switch, shift lever. It has a leaking upper rad hose and an oil dipstick that's broke off in the tube but the customer thinks he can handle that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 There is some confusion about brass and SS cups. IIRC IH switched from brass to SS in the middle of 2000 to accommodate the new coolants and offered only SS as replacement. My students have been telling me for a while that brass is coming as replacements, so maybe they changed the alloy of the brass to be compatible with the coolants. Any input is welcome here, what have you guys been seeing for 7.3 cups? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Brass on the last one I did... maybe 3 months ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Pulled these Control arms from a 4500 GM Van ambulance. Same bushing the 1/2 ton trucks used. 4600 lbs on the front axle with nobody in it. I put upgraded gm springs, Bilstein shocks, a heavy timbren kit, and new upper and lower arms. They just don't know why the tires are always worn on the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Put a 2015 turbo on a 2012 6.7L on Friday. Truck had a full dpf/doc/egr and def delete, with an h&s minimaxx. Needless to say there was no warrantee on the turbo when it shed a few turbine blades. Customer purchased a kit from the states (Midwest performance I think?) For not much more than I could supply just a turbo. Kit was all ford parts except the billet compressor wheel in the turbo and a new downpipe. Kit included turbo, pedestal, rh exhaust manifold, turbo feed pipes, new heat shields, turbo oil and coolant lines, lower intake manifold, 4" exhaust downpipe, some gaskets and hardware. Now he just needs to find tuning to make it work ok in the low end, and it has no wastegate now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 I got a new Samsung Galaxy S5 for Christmas to replace my sweet flip phone. The camera is awesome hence the pictures lately. Here is my present to myself. 2009 pretty well loaded. You can see 2 exploders in my bays in the background. 1 has a t-case front output seal leak that requires disassembly of the transfer case to replace. Thanks ford. The other has both of the plastic radiator supports broken and the radiator is just kind of hanging there. I am slowly installing an egr cooler bypass valve in my other bay. Have a lot of work if anyone wants to come to Wyoming for a while I could use some help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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