Matt Saunoras Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Taking some broken studs out for another tech doing manifolds on a 5.4 3V F-150. One of the broken ones is the RF lower behind the spring tower. Having problems accessing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Man that one was tough. Took longer to get that single stud out that the other 3 combined. Did get it though, no drilling. I had to weld blind, basically steady my hand, look away and pull the trigger. It worked though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Why bring it in now there is still rotor vanes remaining 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Wiring repair at the DEF tank harness main connector on the frame harness side, reductant heater B power supply wire rubbed through 1/2 inch away from the connector, good thing we have the wiring kit, and my first retail EGR cooler core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Doing a repeat compressor failure on a 6.7. Planning on changing the drier and TXV which I may start doing on all of them. Borrowed a flush machine from our other store. We've simply never had the equipment to do a/c work properly. What do you guys do for a locked up compressor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 .What do you guys do for a locked up compressor? It really depends on if there is any sealant or contaminated refrigerant in the system. Then make sure the reason for compressor failure is determined if possible. There is a TSB 09-076 for Honda CRV('04ish) that is pretty helpful. I would check for any metal or polymerized oil that has imbedded itself into the lines or hoses, if it has I would recommend replacing them. I would also replace the condenser if it has any debris in it, the pin hole passages in the new style condensers are next to impossible to clean out. I have more input if you like, send me a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Doing a repeat compressor failure on a 6.7. Planning on changing the drier and TXV which I may start doing on all of them. Borrowed a flush machine from our other store. We've simply never had the equipment to do a/c work properly.What do you guys do for a locked up compressor? Exactly what you are doing now. If the customer won't pay for the extras, we won't touch it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 This compressor was originally warranty and the new compressor is obviously still going to be warranty. The TXV and drier are going to be subsequent damage. The problem I have and we all probably have is the compressor alone is more than the average A/C repair on our 126. Now honestly the only A/C warranty repair I can remember performing is, you guessed it, a compressor failure on 6.7s (A LOT). So guess what, we're high in A/C now. The drier, TXV and flush labor only adds salt to the wound. You're damned if you do and damned if you don't. Somehow someway I've been getting away with just changing compressors until now. Honestly I'm not seeing shards of metal coming out of them, and the small amount of oil in the lines still appears clean. What I have noticed is that I am not draining any oil from the old compressor. Now if you look at the book it has you removing oil from the new compressor because the book assumes the oil must be somewhere else in the system. You wouldn't want to add too much oil by leaving a full almost 3 ounces that comes shipped in the compressor. What I'm wondering is if these systems are not coming with the correct amount of oil added. How the hell are you supposed to know? I guess you can't unless you flush the whole thing, change the TXV and drier, and add the total system spec (which is only about 3.5 ounces). We'll see though. Hopefully this is the fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Maybe there is problem that is causing the evaporator to freeze up which can cause the compressor to get starved of oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 Could be, either way it's back together with both cores flushed, new drier and TXV with the correct amount of oil and refrigerant added. I'm going to drive it around some today and let it go on Monday.Had a good one earlier this week. The silver truck I did coolers on last month finally came in for headgaskets. Customer was complaining of it overheating since then and I just shrugged it off since the headgaskets were so bad.Post headgasket roadtest almost instantly started overheating and had to limp it back to the shop. Changed the T-stat real quick thinking possibly something was wrong with the new one I put in. Nope. Started overheating idling in the shop. No heat from the vents, no flow from the degas bottle return hose coming from the intake. That impeller just spins free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 ...which only adds credence to choosing the aftermarket ones with the metal impellers nip this problem in the bud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 I try to check the water pump every chance I get but I've never seen one do this. Usually the impeller is just separating and boring its way into the front cover. Occasionally I see ones that are starting to cavitate where the o-ring seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 I've seen my share of ones completely cracked like the one in your post above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 What causes the impeller to break like that, any theories? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 I had one on my 95 contour that split in half and dropped off the shaft. I was doing some "spirited" driving right before it overheated. I think high engine rpm may have finished it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 I slapped a heater core in my dads 99 crown Vic and flushed all the crap out of the system. He bought this car with 5000 miles on it in 2008 for $5000. I put some exhaust hangers on it and this is the first issue at 68,000 miles. Now I need to change the trans fluid, and rear diff fluid, and there is a popping noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredsvt Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Finished up on Friday: a 2005 F250 5.4 3 valve engine replacement. Engine was in its death throes. Trashed thrust bearings, blown rear main, bank 2 not contributing and wiped cam bearing surfaces. Beat on fleet truck. Also took care of rear brakes, rotted backing plates, rotors and calipers. It will be coming back for a trans pan (rot), ball joints, spring towers and tie rod ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Not a thing in either bay. Nothing on the schedule. This is the first time this year I haven't been buried over my head, let alone had absolutely nothing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 2010 F350, replaced the alternator, checked for intermittent no 4X4, need to diagnose no cruise button input to pcm, waiting on ESP approval for turbos, so I can finish diagnosis on high fuel consumption, most likely due to frequent regens or the lack of being able to finish one. P2263 keeps setting in KOER, so I am stuck here till I get that code to stop showing up. DPF shows partial, pressures are ok and tail pipes are clean, has 134,000 KM on the unit. Map was also plugged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 2012 Fiesta engine replacement caused by coolant emptying into crankcase. God these engines are so cute looking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I'm sitting under this 91 F-700 right now wondering what the hell I'm looking at. First off its still here for an inop speedo. Got a new sensor in, one that's adjustable and not a set depth. Just what I needed right? Wrong. Looking down in the hole again with a better view I see what originally hit the old sensor. The output shaft yoke. I pulled the driveshaft off and much to my surprise the yoke just slides back and forth on the shaft. What I was looking at in the sensor hole was not reluctor teeth but actually output shaft splines. I don't believe the output shaft splines are supposed to generate a signal for the sensor, it makes no sense that the yoke would slide back and forth on the shaft almost 1/4". I believe the reluctor wheel is just plain missing and it would, if present, space the yoke properly. Now I've got to try and find a wheel and rear seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 2010 F350, replaced the alternator, checked for intermittent no 4X4, need to diagnose no cruise button input to pcm, waiting on ESP approval for turbos, so I can finish diagnosis on high fuel consumption, most likely due to frequent regens or the lack of being able to finish one. P2263 keeps setting in KOER, so I am stuck here till I get that code to stop showing up. DPF shows partial, pressures are ok and tail pipes are clean, has 134,000 KM on the unit. Map was also plugged. Still sitting in my bay. After many back and fourths with ESP because of various different requests on their part, plus the fact that someone over there can't read, I am still waiting for approval for these turbos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I played parts guy all day. Pulled up an Eaton catalog for an FS-4005-B, found the speedo gear called out as 21500. Called International, they told me its a Fuller FUL21555. Crossed that off the handy Ford/IH parts interchange and came up with 4C4Z-17285-BA. Ordered that and a seal from Blue Diamond. We'll see what shows up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Also that 7.3 in my other bay is a weird one. Got towed in from our sister Lincoln store with a reman tranny already sold. They were diaging it for driveabilty and the tranny stopped shifting, overheated and puked some fluid out. I'm all ready to drag it inside. Check my engagements and much to my surprise we have forward and reverse. OD doesn't feel like 1st gear but whatever, manual 1 and 2 are present. Drive it in, rack it up, verified driving it up in the air that it doesn't shift. Grab the IDS, start a session. Right away something catches my eye. Main screen on IDS, transmission type says "Manual" This is where a phone call is placed to my old service manager who tells me the PCM was replaced for who knows what and its been doing that ever since. Got the old PCM off them, forced the correct calibration on it because it wasn't original either and drove the thing 30 miles. Now I don't know what gear this thing was stuck in but it smells like it smoked the fluid driving it around in a high gear. Dropped the pan, nothing concerning found, stuck a new filter in it and some new fluid but I may try a full blown flush tomorrow. What's the worst that could happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 2010 F350, replaced the alternator, checked for intermittent no 4X4, need to diagnose no cruise button input to pcm, waiting on ESP approval for turbos, so I can finish diagnosis on high fuel consumption, most likely due to frequent regens or the lack of being able to finish one. P2263 keeps setting in KOER, so I am stuck here till I get that code to stop showing up. DPF shows partial, pressures are ok and tail pipes are clean, has 134,000 KM on the unit. Map was also plugged. Still sitting in my bay. After many back and fourths with ESP because of various different requests on their part, plus the fact that someone over there can't read, I am still waiting for approval for these turbos. Finally got the approval, slapped on a couple of turbos, changed the oil and filter, changed the air filter, attempted a manual regen (I never have luck with doing a 6.4L manual regen), the thing just belched raw fuel for a few minutes, cooling fans never ramped up, so I kicked it out of manual and drove it. According to IDS it went into regen and completed it, both DPF complete and request reset, and never a single message on the dash. On the drive back the cluster dropped to 11L per 100KM. 21 MPG. I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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