What's In Your Bay - Part V

[batmantech]

Buddy_m thats fast removal 2 minutes a stud. I never have any luck just building up a nub. The ones I see are very hard to turn out even with a nut, they turn out hard all the way. Maybe it has something to do with how deep they are in the head and how much rust has built up.

[Buddy_M]

I was wrong on the welder model, mine is the 212, bigger unit than the 211. I'll touch on the end of the stud with a flat carbide bit on the die grinder to get rid of rust on the end, then build up the stud if necessary til it extends out about 1/4". I also run the welder a lil hotter than what I probably should for it just to get that heavy heat soak to make sure I have very good weld penetration, usually setting 4 and between 42-52IPM seems to work best. After that I grab a 3/8 nut with a needlenose vise grip, hold it over the stud with one hand then fill the center with my weld pool, let it sit just until the red glow goes away then go in with my 1/4" air ratchet and they spin out.

 

The last truck I did that had so many broken ones, it was a Minnesota truck so plenty of rust. The nut flats on the few I could get on I had to use an 11 or 12mm because the rust had made them smaller than the original 13mm size. One or two of them I remember giving up and taking the torch and cut the nut off the stud so I could get the manifold out of the way.

 

Now.. if that doesnt work, I've been successful with two other methods(I dont recommend anyone try it without practicing a lot on scrap parts, it's quite sketchy, but can work very good if done right) Either with an oxyacetylene, you can get the torch just right to heat the stuck bolt, wait an extra few seconds then hit the oxygen and you can get nearly all of the bolt blown out of the hole(just run a tap and it's good to go). That method Matt is an option I would try on a turbo housing if it came to it, the cast housing shouldn't draw heat as fast as the broken bolt will, so it shouldn't damage the housing very much if it does at all if done right. I've even tried(just once, and successfully even) blew out a broken bolt from the right rear exhaust bolt on a 5.3 engine in an early 2000's chevy pickup by using my plasma cutter since it was so tight against the firewall. I've learned and taught myself a few tips/tricks with using torches/welders, helped me quite a bit that I used to work with a welder. He taught me several years ago when I was in a heavy truck shop and had me take the same destructive testing that would have given me certification for structural/pipeline welding so it makes me quite confident in what I am doing at least. When I made the switch from heavy to light duty, I was told the torch very rarely got pulled out at the dealer I was at. It was my best friend there for rusted/stuck fasteners and even u-joints, and I seemed to always get the strange look of what the hell I was doing when I got it, but I always seemed to get the job done faster than anyone else there could.

[Matt Saunoras]

I have blown out broken bolts with a torch before but I've never gotten one so good I could just retap. A helicoil is what I end up using to fix those threads.

 

I try to know as much as I can about welding/ oxy fuel because its going to be useful in the future. I'm not sure how much longer this dealership gig will last. Not enough trucks and too much fucking around going on here.

[amailloux]

I finished up a 2011 Duramax Fuel system last week and snapped a few pics.  Looks familiar.

[Matt Saunoras]

Another set of manifolds on a gas super duty. This thing is the crustiest MFer I've ever seen. Definitely has salt on it left over from last year.

 

Got all the bolts out, 10 broke total which is a new record for a 5.4. Tomorrow I've gotta figure out how to get that dipstick tube out.

[Matt Saunoras]

Sold a right side manifold on a 07 F-250 5.4. Also got a 6.0 ambulance that needs manifold gaskets too.  I'm sick of this crap.

[mchan68]

I got an '08 F-250 right side up-pipe that went from a partial cab lift to a full cab lift after a turbo bolt snapped off.

[lmorris]

2012 F550 getting a 6006 assembly for buggered crank bearings. This one just followed a 2011 F350 that got the same treatment for the exhaust valve failure.

[Chad_Kelsoe]

Currently sitting in Nashville now attending Climate Control class, but when I get back to work Monday I have a 2012 F-550 that is getting a turbo. It has a total of 350 miles, 162 total engine hours with 151 idle hours. I'm guessing unison ring is stuck and causing it to set the P132B code. Gonna go in Saturday when I get back to swap engines in my own truck (92 GMC K1500). Got a bottom end knock in my current engine, so I bought a used engine for $200, threw a crank kit in it and resealed it up. Truck mainly gets used for a work truck and also used when we get snow here in Alabama. Last year we got around 8 inches over 2 days and it shut every thing down for nearly a week . Everyone keeps talking like this winter could be worse than last year, and I need a reliable way to get to work in case it is.

[forddieseldoctor]

I got an 04 6.0 with a cracked head and blown headgaskets that should be back in one piece tomorrow. Looked at an 08 6.4 for a loud squeal noise when accelerating. Service manager made me pull the belts cause they thought it was a belt noise. Found both manifolds falling off the side of the motor.

[Matt Saunoras]

Doing another set of 2 valve 5.4 manifolds on a super duty. 

 

Oh yeah and how could I forget.  Did a primary water pump in a 13 F-450.  I do believe I've found my least favorite job with my least favorite warranty time.  I like a challenge but give me a break. 

[Brad Clayton]

Lets make sure we are DRing for a review on all the 6.7 water pumps, for sure.

[YukonTyler]

- '12 F150 5.0 getting a right side head for bad intake valves and seats

- '13 Fiesta for DPS6 clutch

- '13 F350 somehow broke the brake line between the fuel tank and the frame rail. mud.

- '12 F150 blew the x-fer case rear output seal and drove it 'til there was nothing left inside

- '12 F150 so packed with mud that it seized the a/c compressor

- '12 Exped. she took it through the car wash when it was 20 below and then brought it to us for non-functioning power running boards. 

[cbriggs]

I did my first primary w/p on a 6.7 a few weeks ago. Shitty ass job for sure.

[Matt Saunoras]

Someone ran normal off the hardware store shelf grade 8 bolts in this right side manifold. These things are giving me a pretty rough time. They're corroded a few threads in and aren't giving up the fight

[forddieseldoctor]

Someone ran normal off the hardware store shelf grade 8 bolts in this right side manifold. These things are giving me a pretty rough time. They're corroded a few threads in and aren't giving up the fight

Ouch that sucks. I had a 6.4 that the only way I could get the exhaust manifold bolt out was to make it a pile of shavings. Even the welder couldnt touch it.

[Matt Saunoras]

I got all but one out, the top rear isn't budging.  I've broken weld after weld on it and it's about 1/8" below flush now and I can still see a rust ring between the bolt and the head.  It's soaking right now and I'll give it one more shot in the morning. Then I'm going to have to drill the first bolt I've had to in years.  I actually wore out about 5-6 of my little turbo sockets because I discovered that my 1/4" impact works wonders on these badly stuck studs.  You can see the hammering action knocking the crust away from the threads. 

 

The shop has a pro-maxx drill guide for gassers but it's never been used.  I'd like to keep it that way

[forddieseldoctor]

I build up a glob on the end of the stud and thrn hold a half inch nut against the head so the glob of weld is inside the nut and fill the nut with weld. I've found the bigger nuts work better on the stubborn ones.

[Steve Mutter]

Lets make sure we are DRing for a review on all the 6.7 water pumps, for sure.

Yes that job pays the shits for sure!!!!!!!

[Matt Saunoras]

Well I had to drill one. No longer batting 1000 with the welder. The pro-maxx drill guide is a piece of shit compared to the beydler. There is too much slop in it so while you can drill down the middle of the bolt you won't be perfectly center. Once I got to about 1/4" I was left with a half moon bolt still in the head that I was able to dig out(not easily). After all the remaining bolt was out I worked up to 21/64 and was able to tap M8x1.25 STI. Everything went perfect honestly but it took way too long due to the fact I'm not a drill expert. Oh well, the job will outlast the truck.

[Matt Saunoras]

Looked a little deeper at a 6.0 no start that was towed in from another shop. It's an 06 with 295,000 miles on the clock and I am no stranger to this thing, I knew it as soon as I saw it on the hook.About 10k miles ago we blew this guy outta here because the truck is a perpetual oil leak. I would fix one leak and 2 more would show up. Wound up finding the turbo compressor seal leaking not only oil into the intercooler but I suspect it is boosting the crankcase slightly. This was a year and a half ago and I haven't heard a word from this guy since then. At one point in time I pulled a piece of STC snap ring out of the LPOP regulator and I assume it's had the updated fitting put on it.So I get the batteries juiced up and give it a crank. It'll build ICP but only about 430-460 PSI, maybe .75v, not quite enough, it almost sounds like it wants to start but it just won't. Since I put coolers in this thing a few years ago I pulled the IPR to check the screen. It's fine so I toss my tester into it just to see. Still a no start, same ICP. Check to make sure the oil filter housing fills and it does. On to the air check, which I am dreading because of the mileage on this thing, it's almost guaranteed all the updates are done.Now I air check, close the IPR with a 12v source and I begin to hear a louder hiss under the right valve cover. Fair enough, I'm not sure how much diag time I'm allotted but everyone's left for the day so I look both ways and dig in. The air appeared to be coming from around 5 or 7, hard to tell exactly where but the standpipe looks okay so I pull the oil rail hoping and praying I can actually see something wrong with an injector d-ring. Nope.Then I flip the rail over on the bench and start wiggling the nipples. 1,3 and 5 are tight. 7 moves around easy. I've been dying to use my oil rail tool so I pop the nipple out. The o-ring is super hard but it's intact so I'm not convinced that's the problem. I changed the one o-ring, stuck a couple bolts in the valve cover and gave it a crank. To my surprise it reluctantly fired up and idled just fine. I let it run for about 10 minutes and watched my IPR settle down to a good 23%.I don't know what I'm going to do with this thing. I'm going in tomorrow and put it back together, if it still starts and runs I'll play with it some more and check it hot. I don't think that o-ring is it. I might have just fixed it well enough to get that couple extra psi of ICP it needed.Oh and my service manager doesn't understand that sometimes you have to fix these things to diag them. <sigh>Update - drove it around a little bit this morning. It's now a no-start hot. My guess is injectors since it appeared all on the right side are originals. I can still hear an air leak near the same spot as yesterday.

[amailloux]

My new to me f350. I paid 15,600 without a tailgate. Thing is super clean. http://www.wilsonmotor.com/Used-2009-Ford-F-350-Logan-UT/vd/23171996

I am sure they will take the link off soon. I drove 7 hours to buy it from another dealer.

[forddieseldoctor]

My new to me f350. I paid 15,600 without a tailgate. Thing is super clean. http://www.wilsonmotor.com/Used-2009-Ford-F-350-Logan-UT/vd/23171996I am sure they will take the link off soon. I drove 7 hours to buy it from another dealer.

Trying to join the Red Truck Mafia?

[Matt Saunoras]

Man did I get burned by this high pressure oil leak. STC is blown out. Almost 2 years ago I fished the snap ring out of the lpop regulator for the first time it was a no start.

 

Somehow air checking this thing must have been enough to reseat the o-ring. This thing started and ran for me Friday and Saturday, I'm real lucky it didn't strand me on the road test.

 

Every time I think I've seen everything the 6.0 never let's me down. I "assumed" there was no chance that fitting hasn't been changed.

[mchan68]

On my plate first thing this morning, an '08 F-450 came in on the hook on the weekend with a popping noise in the intake. Scanned it, got a P0263 and P0301. Got the approval to pull bank #1 valve cover for a look/see. Turns out cylinder #5 exhaust rocker arm had fallen off the pedestal. Amazingly enough, the pushrod, rocker arm and even the plastic retainer is all intact. So I reassemble everything, and bump the engine over and to my dismay, there is about 7/16 to 1/2 an inch of play between the pushrod and the rocker arm.