amailloux Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 This poor van has 48K and guessing over 10000 hours. It will not engage until the rpm comes up to 1000 rpm or so, then she bangs in. Fluid level is ok, no smell of clutch material. I took it for a drive and it has 0 tcc engagement. has overhead codes, tcc stuck off, tcc performance and 3 friction element slip codes. So I check and in park and neutral line pressure is 30 psi. When I rev it up, at 75 psi it engages harshly and then the rpm drops. it will then disengage over and over. On my drive, all gears were there and the shifts felt good. When the TCC is commanded there is 0 rpm drop, and then the 2 tcc codes set. Is there any connection between this. I have not dropped the pan. Being a quigly it has been converted to 4 wheel drive as well, but the engineering number on the trans matches the catalog and I thing they remove the output shaft and housing and just transfer them over and leave the transmission in. Does this sound correct. I found there is an updated pump to prevent low/rev failures in cold weather, and I have no external filter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Regulator bore wears and causes the valve to stick causing low line pressure, from time to time. I would check the filter for restriction first, after verifying proper fluid level. But I bet you'll be pulling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 Got any pictures of the conversion work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted June 17, 2014 Author Share Posted June 17, 2014 I dropped the valve body and the gasket, screen assembly between the 2 halves was pooched out and the mesh screen material ripped. Right at the front center. I believe the mesh has gotten into the solenoids, and was for sure a leak for line pressure. In the morning I am going to put my straight edge on the body halves and then most likely put a valve body with all solenoids on her. I don't think any of the material from the screen could have made it up into the clutch passages, but I'll flush em out. The pan was incredibly clean. I will try to get some pics. They remove the extension housing from the oe 2 wheel drive, install a new oem output shaft and 4 wheel drive extension housing, a ford transfer case, and complete ford front axle. Most parts are directly from the super duty. They have a quigly built set of arms bolted in to locate the front axle. The thing is a tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 I bet it's even more fun to work on than a refills e van. Do they still saw the front 10" of the fuel tank off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Here is how it is set up. After you mentioned the tank being shortened I checked and Holy crap, they welded an end on the fuel tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 They don't clean the tanks out after they slice the ends off from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 They don't clean the tanks out after they slice the ends off from time to time. Why doesn't that surprise me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 18, 2014 Share Posted June 18, 2014 Yeah I ran into that scenario once a few years back. Killed the fuel pump it did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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