Gustavo Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Hey everyone. My coworker has been stuck working on a 6.4 for about a month now. Customer had brought truck with a P0088 about 2 months ago and did not want to do HPFP repair at that time. he brought the truck later. Truck has an edge programmer. So anyways my coworker replaced the HPFP, cleared adaptive tables. But now the truck on light throttle will lack power as if the vgt is getting stuck and eventually free's up and climbs fast to 42 psi. This happens only when holding the accelerator pedal lightly. Also when it feels like the vgt is getting stuck the engine chugs and i looked at the pids while road testing and i can see the egr valve going up and down. MGP is only 10 psi, while egr valve is fluctuating can feel lack of power, VGT is at 95% the whole time. Eventually stops and map pressure climbs VGT is at 92% when it sees 42 psi then it goes down and map pressure goes down and runs normally. Egr valve position actual is equal to desired. EBP_A remains at 23 psi while EPB_DSD varies up and down about 31-26 psi. KOEO MAP=14.32 BARO =14.62 and EBP_A =13.92psi. FRP is within specs. equal to desired. PCV and VCV pods do not fluctuate. Base fuel pressure 6 psi. Did not see any air in fuel. Fuel filters are new and fuel is clean no water. He has replaced the EBP sensor, but the new one was reading to high 16.02 psi with KOEO. So he put the old one back. He swapped the erg valve, map sensor, maf sensor, cleared adaptive tables but concern is still present. He replaced the high pressure turbo and the vgt actuator, concern still present. PCM is updated to latest calibration so we performed a PMI. Performed exhaust restriction test passed 33 psi. No visible or audible leaks present. Checked air flow in the up pipe catalyst. EGRTA reading 291F and EGRTB reading 154F. Relative compression test passes. power balance test passes. When opening egr valve EGRTB would climb to 188F. 34 F difference. DPF filter pid reads clean. Disconneced downpipe from doc/dpf assembly, felt improvement. Contacted hotline told him to replace DOC. Replaced DOC concern still present. Coworker is going on vacations and I will have to look at it. Im thinking I'm gong to start off looking at the ebp connector circuits. And going to smoke test the intake and exhaust systems, do not think he has smoke tested systems.. Has anyone else had a similar problem? any info would be appreciated. Thank you guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWalt Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 While looking at IDS data logging, wiggled the EBP connector and observed the voltage. I think you'll find the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordracer Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 I had one that would boost to 40 psi while parked and accelerating and it was the EBP sensor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Ditch that shitty edge tuning also. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Yes have removed edge programmer. Wiggled ebp connector to see if there was voltage fluctuation. Did not see any spikes in voltage remained the same. Checked ebp circuits from PCM connector to ebp connector. vref circuit ,2 ohms and ebp circuit .2 ohms. Load tested circuits with light bulb and while wiggling harness, 12 volt dropp across light bulb no matter what. Pin fitted connector pins good grip do not feel loose. Has me stumped thinking maybe PCM is messed up due to programmer. Customer bought this vehicle from a performance shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Also have switched ebp sensor from a known good truck concern still present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Can you sweep the VGT actuator by hand with the keys off and in your pocket? I say in your pocket because if someone cycles the key with your hand in there, you're going to need help getting the lid off the ketchup bottle at lunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Hahaha. Yes it sweeps I let go of it and goes all the way back to its place. Have tried it multiple times does not stick. Also commanded voy actuator does not have any trouble moves as commanded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 My first thought was EBP also. Is the tube clear? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 22, 2014 Author Share Posted August 22, 2014 Have been using parts off a truck that we are waiting for authorization for an engine it's all torn down. But we swapped the ebp and tube together. And still no difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 How about the fitting in the manifold being plugged with shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 Er, EGR pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWalt Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 dumb question...Is the turbo stock / factory OEM?Few weeks ago, I had 6.0 came in for service, I know you got 6.4 engine but please keep reading this.This 6.0 came in for no start, found low FICM voltage, replaced FICM did solved no start, after replacing FICM, I fired up this 6.0, freakin thing make loud whining noise.Scared the chit outta me, after checking this and that I found out someone modify OEM turbo excessively [ internally]. Like I mention above, is the turbo OEM or modify? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 23, 2014 Author Share Posted August 23, 2014 Yes turbo is oem, my coworker replaced it already but concern is still present. Checked the fitting in the manifold but it is clean no carbon. put a wire throughout it anyways to make sure. And there seems to be airflow through the egr pipe as mentioned above EGRTA reading 291F and EGRTB reading 154F.When opening egr valve EGRTB would climb to 188F. 34 F difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Have you checked your map sensor for plugging? It may sound like a long shot, but may be worth looking at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 So the truck was not acting like this befor the hpfp. Maybe have a look at your fuel rail pressure and sensor voltage to see what it's doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Installed a new DPF, Problem gone. Drove 35 miles problem never returned. I don't know how a code didn't pop up if it was clogged. It doesn't look like it has carbon buildup and I try to shine light through it but don't see it at the other side. This truck was a pita to diagnose. Thank you everyone for your time and info. You guys are very helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Installed a new DPF, Problem gone. It doesn't look like it has carbon buildup and I try to shine light through it but don't see it at the other side. You know the DPF is not a flow through device, and you should not be able to see a light shine through, right? Cats are flow through devices and you can see light through them, but not DPFs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Onope didn't know, now I know lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Google dpf cleaning machine. Look at the big yellow one I can't remember the name of it offhand there's a good video of how air and paeticulate flows through a dpf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 FSX is the one you're thinking of, which is recommended by most (or all) of the HD OEM's. Note that there are two types of cleanings- ash cleaning (cold blow out) for a high mileage engine with no real problems, and baking for a DPF which is face plugged or so clogged with soot/carbon that blowing does not work. This is followed by a blow job to clean the ash out of it. Most DPF cleanings include a baking because there was an issue with the engine. FSX tells me that a "number" of DPF's do not survive the process and are scrapped but would not tell me the percentage. Pricing is generally in the $400ish range for a cleaning. http://www.fsxinc.com/ is the website, http://www.fsxinc.com/site1/video/video.html is the video on the cleaning process, and it's worth watching. There's another video on YouTube that may be the same. A big item to note is that FSX does clean DPFs if you ship it to them, so you can be sure they're done correctly. The problem is that it's hard or impossible to clean some LD DPFs that we see and service because they need special adapters to fit the machine. The places in Cleveland that have DPF cleaners don't have the adapters for LD units. Another problem we've run into is the guys who have the cleaners- these things drink 440v 3PH like it's free. The business owner shortcuts the baking process to save money, leaving you with a half clogged DPF. Instead of the recommended 12 hours in the oven they shorten it and give it back to you. If you have a DPF baked, I'd ask questions like: 1. How log do you bake it? (FSX recommends 4hrs ramping the temp up, 4 hrs at 1000F and 4 hrs ramping down, going too fast cracks the substrate) 2. Do you have a flow bench for testing the DPF? 3. Do you flow test it after cleaning and compare to FSX's specs? Nobody guarantees cleaning DPFs because most are caused by a problem up front. They probably guarantee they're done right, but it would be really rare for a cust to have a DPF cleaned and then flow tested at another facility. Trusting the DPF cleaner to flow test the DPF is like the fox watching the henhouse. Keith: Should we start a new thread and move these last few posts to make it searchable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Yea I saw the video a lot of good info there. Always learning new things. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 I'm bothered when the filter does not need cleaning as per the manometer reading, yet the local company (they have an fsx) cleans it anyways and bills us. I have the chart and the restriction limit was nowhere close to my "/h2o reading on the sheet they supplied me. Could have at least bumped the reading so I felt a little better. The local KW dealer has told my biggest customer that they aren't maintaining their dpf's properly so they need to have them cleaned. Conveniently - the local KW dealer now does dpf cleanings. We are sending them to the international store, after splitting them apart at the shop. I think the blow job is $285 (our cost). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.