run6.0run Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Hey guys,, what are your thoughts on this. It was a small town shop that plugged the degas vent hose from the radiator. Do you all think an air bubble got trapped and stuck at the coolant pump?? The customer said the gauge was pegged for about 2 miles. I'm not so sure about that. Unless the oil cooler was completely plugged,, his coolant had to be boiling. Isn't it 350* to melt the plastic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWalt Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Customer is correct about gauge being pegged. Been there done that before. I replaced motor for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
run6.0run Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 I agree the gauge pegged,,, but it had to peg for longer than 2 miles for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWalt Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 doesn't matter, if it is 2 miles or whatever. I, myself have been monitoring EOT and ECT via IDS, in few cases I have seen EOT are 70 to 100 degrees higher than ECT, while the gauge on dash reads "normal". Bottom line:::::Gauge are not 100% accurate period!Gauge might be reading air pocket temperature while there are no coolant or little coolant circulating the engine, coolers etc..etc..This is why diesel coolant system must be bleed properly whenever it is drained or taken apart. I know a lot of guys don't do that, they add coolant, slammed the hood, road test and park it.Few weeks or months later, something else took a chit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I am curious why they would remove the rad degass hose and nipple all together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Probably because they broke it off when they were doing the R & R on the fan shroud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Probably because they broke it off when they were doing the R & R on the fan shroud. I have broken a couple myself, and from experience, a good rad shop will have brass fittings that can be threaded in place. Saved my ass a few times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 1/8 to 1/8 pipe union will do the trick too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Did this one a few years ago. The degas hose is 3/8" so any barb fitting you use should match the side of the hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 How is that secured in? Just self tapped fitting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 I use 1/8" pipe tap and epoxy them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
run6.0run Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 I did the one in the video just like yours Matt. I tapped it just like normal,, then put epoxy around the outside of the threads. Very ghetto repair,, but it worked. We get radiators for about $200 (but get a couple bucks more at the sale) so I have just replaced whenever they come in broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy57 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 My favored repair is to use a 1 inch long piece of old small diameter brake line and drill rad and nipple so it fits inside. I JB Weld the steel tube into rad and nipple and the nipple to rad. I use the 5 minute JB Weld and 100 grit sandpaper prep on rad and nipple. Second step I do is to find a 1 inch by 1/4 inch piece of thin metal I cut with metal snips. I JB Welded that across top of rad to nipple, 1/2 inch on both, and then put another layer of JB Weld around the nipple to rad joint. The little strip of metal really braces it up. I test this repair on a seam leaking rad first and it withstood a lot of force, more than it takes to break a virgin nipple off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Yeah I tapped the rad and used 2 part epoxy to secure it a little better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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