the_twig_187 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 so I have a 2009 F-550 with a bad shaking while at idol and a dead misfire on cylinder 2. I have never replaced an injector on a 6.4L before and I was wondering (A) what is a typical charge for a retail injector replacement? none of our labour books have 6.4L times and warranty doesn't list injector replacement times either ( any thing I should know before embarking on this journey? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Your dealer should invest in Alldata or something similar: The labor time for warranty replacement can be found by using the word search (among many other ways) under the SLTS tab in PTS: I would never replace an injector on a 64 without first doing a manual compression test on that cylinder, especially cylinders 2 and 8, they are the worst for engine damage, such as bent rods, broken pistons and such. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_twig_187 Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 well I just ran an IDS relative compression test and cylinder #2 has a 25% compression loss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Ouch...time to find out why it's low. What's the oil level at? Oil in CAC? Most times it's from overfull oil. The oil gets drawn into the intake through the crankcase vent and starts to take out the piston, and in some cases hydrolocks it. If the oil is overfull you need to perform oil level check in Hard start/no start diagnosis and go from there. When you get to checking the fuel pump for a leak, use IDS to command the pump on and let it run for 10-15 minutes. Don't take the engine apart until you find the cause of the high oil level(if it is in fact high). I would run the test regardless, the last thing you need is to put failed fuel system components into a new engine. IF there is piston damage, include #2 injector and glow plug with the engine repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_twig_187 Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 the contents of the #2 valve train.... I have no experience with this, what should I do next? cylinder head? just replace the push rod and rock arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 The last 6.4 I had that came in with the rocker arm looking like that ended up being the roller lifter with roller itself MIA. ADDED: These 6.4s are also notorious for prematurely wearing out the rocker arm tips like the one you posted in your PIC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_twig_187 Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Don't you have to dismantle the block to get to the lifters? Or am I thinking of a 6 litre? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 YUP. They have identical valvetrain layouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I've had a few like this. The last one blew out the top of the lifters. Possibly from not having any load on it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_twig_187 Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 so ford hotline says to replace the push rods/rocker arms/and the rocker bridge. then do another "manual" compression test and see if the compression comes back. in order to do that I will need to re-seal all four injectors, replace the oil rail to injector tubes(lines) anything else im missing? I read the workshop manual for the rocker replacement but was very confused in its wording with lining up the cylinders to 10:30 and was wondering if anyone could simplify it for me? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Drain the oil first and look for the fuzzy drain plug. If it needs a cam and lifter, I wouldn't do anything less than a short block. Just sayin'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Exactly what Alex said. Mine ended up being a long block after I cost capped it. If you do what Hotline tells you to do, you can potentially end up with new parts charged out on the repair only to be wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 The 10:30 part is regarding the position of the dowl on the balancer. You put it at 10:30, depending on which valves are closed you tighten certain rocker bolts, then rotate the crank 360, putting dowl back to 10:30 position and tighten the rest. This to prevent valves from contacting the pistons because the lifters sometimes will not bleed down fast enough. I personally have never followed this procedure, I use hand tools only on the valve train and have never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Same here, for the longest time I didn't even know there was a procedure for tightening the rockers. Just did it the same as a 6.0. Carefully paying attention to how the rocker seats on the valve bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I've also never turned the engine to install rockers. I just use a little common sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_twig_187 Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Ok thank guys I was just a little unsure as I have never replaced the rockers or push rods before. I informed the customer of the lengthy attempt to repair of just replacing the rocker and rod and that there was no guarantee that there was no base engine damage and they agreed that the time would be better spent on replacing the long block so I have one on order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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