2014 Oil pans starting to leak.

[lmorris]

Starting to see upper pan gaskets leaking. Turns out the 2014's have a new pan that uses 3 orings and RTV. Sadly the orings are not stocked in Canada.

[lmorris]

Now that it's all apart,I most likely didn't have to remove the front cover. Good photo opportunity though. I left the old silicone on the pan for reference.

[lmorris]

After all is said and done I am thinking the silicone didn't bond to well to the aluminum upper pan. The lower pan separated way too easy, as did the upper. No silicone was on the sealing surface of the upper pan. 2 people are a must when putting the pan back in.

 

Edit: May 25: Second 2014 has same issue, looks like the silicone didn't stick to the upper pan. Leaving the front cover alone this time. 

[tec80]

Ford used to employ a press-in-place seal for upper pan to block, and did not machine the upper pan flange.  Now they use RTV in place of the PIP seal but they machine the flange.

[DieselD]

a little hard to tell in the pictures but is that black silicone or grey?

[lmorris]

It's black, the WSM calls for TA-357, which we couldn't get so I used the grey TA-31.

[cbriggs]

TA 357 is the "high performance" silicone that was originally for the 3.5 v6 (and some others? )with silicone on timing covers. We have a bunch at work, although it may be expired by now. I have been using the black ta-30 for a lot of things. It exactly resembles permatex "ultra black", which I really like. 

[DieselD]

intresting...grey has been my go to silicone for anything on a diesel for a very long time.

[Matt Saunoras]

I'm using the black engine silicone for nearly everything now. The caulking tube costs just as much as a smaller tube of gray and I can keep it from drying out much easier. The big plus is using a gun to dispense.

[DieselD]

The TA-31 grey comes in a caulk tube for easy application as well. You are thinking of the "international" grey that came in the toothpaste style tube

 

I use the grey for everything including sealing up a toliet in the shop bathroom

[Matt Saunoras]

Well I saw one that needs the upper pan resealed. I figure it's the worst possible vehicle to have to make this repair. It's an early 15 F-550 service body that tips the scales over 20k lbs all day long. The truck is in constant service so I'm not sure when it will be back but I get to think about it until then. It does have a tranny mounted PTO and there's no way my racks will lift it. This thing is a monster, definitely the heaviest 550 I've driven.

[Steve Mutter]

The work shop manual states that you have to remove the flex plate to remove the upper oil pan, is this true Leon? 

 

I just looked at a 6.7 truck, now I know why.

Edited February 8, 2016 by Steve Mutter

[lmorris]

One thing, the WSM has you remove the nuts that hold the lower battery cable assembly to the pan. Go 1 step further and remove the bolt/studs from the pan itself and stuff the cable assembly as high as you can get it. Makes sliding the pan back in so much nicer, then stuff a block of wood between the pan and the crossmember(select your block and test fit it before removing the pan) that way you don't have to hold the pan while you start the bolts.

[lmorris]

Just looked at a 2017 that was on the lube rack. 8000 KM and starting to stain in the same spot. Someone is going to get good at pulling these engines if this keeps up.

 

Currently resealing a 2016. It sure helps if you can let the truck sit for more that 12 hours before pulling the pan off. I only had 2 drips to contend with once the upper pan was out. I had the upper pan back in place 45 minutes later. It helps a bunch to remove the front two battery cable bracket mounting bolts before putting it back together. Remove the two lower fan diffuser nuts and push it towards the fan shroud to make it easier to get the bracket bolts back into the pan.  

[RyanG]

I have to due a reseal on a 16 550. Honestly, the whole thing pisses me off because the only reason I can see for the design change was to save on manufacturing costs. Why machine a groove into the pan and have a press in gasket when you can just slap some silicone on it and bolt it up. They go from almost never leaking on the 11-14s to every 15 and 16 I get under is leaking.

[Matt Saunoras]

Fords oil pan department just plain sucks. Look at the 2.7 fiasco. Those plastic pans won't seal worth a damn

[lmorris]

Finally, after having a few under my belt, moving to a different dealership, and letting the truck sit in my bay overnight so all the oil is in the pan, I beat warranty time by an hour.

[Thetmaxx]

I definitely thought I had the hang of these. Let the truck sit overnight with Pan off to avoid drops. I'll try the block of wood idea. Got two in my stall. I've been using ultra grey silicone with no problem, but just had one come back pumping oil out of the pan. Needless to say I'm curious where I screwed up because I do a meticulous job of cleaning. 

[Steve Mutter]

I have done a couple re seals now and found in is some cases its hard to say that its just the upper oil pan leaking. The engines I have re seal have all looked like the leak starts above the tee joint so I have re sealed the front and rear covers as well. I had one I just did the upper pan on and it came back, I removed the front cover and found the gasket around the bottom of the block was flat.  

[kbomb2788]

You guys remove trans to do the upper pan? At new dealer they don't have trans adapter plate that I used to use on 6.0L and 6.4L.

[Keith Browning]

WSM says remove the flexplate...

I am starting my first in the morning. I don't see any way around it honestly

[RyanG]

The only way I could see would be to jack the engine up but with there only being an inch of clearance on top, you would have to take a lot of shit off to have enough room. Wouldn't be worth the effort.  Ive pulled these trannys before we got the plate. You just have to get a little creative with some blocks of wood to get it sitting correctly.

[kridd12]

We have just been lifting the cab and jacking the engine up to do the pans.  Barely enough room to do it in chassis without having a comeback.  Haven't had one of these come back after doing it this way yet. 

[lmorris]

Never had an issue with clearance going back in. Just let the pan slide on the cross-member and keep it level so the front of the pan doesn't tilt up. Having someone at the front to help lift it into place works better than when I was doing it myself. The guys here at my new employer are a lot more willing to led a hand when needed.

Just remember that the 2018's require engine removal now. I have seen 2 with leaks starting, so far. None have come back for the repair yet though.