Procedure For Partial Cab Lift

the_twig_187 · August 7, 2015

I have always removed the cab for doing certain job on 6.4L and 6.7L engines. I was recently informed by another tech at a ford training course that he almost never removes cabs anymore and he just does a "partial" cab lift in order to access hard to reach components such as rear turbo flanges and up-pipe bolts ect...

wondering if anyone is well versed in the "partial" cab lift and wouldn't mind explaining what they do and what steps they make?

thanks

Chris

lmorris · August 7, 2015

If you into the WSM for 08-10 Superduties and follow the cab on procedures, it lists how to do a partial lift. As far as any 6.7L goes I don't think there is anything that would require a partial lift.

Brad Clayton · August 7, 2015

I started dong partial cab lifts all the way back in 1993 when Ford introduced the Turbo version of the 7.3 IDI. Life became less complicated immediately. There are 2 different partial cab lifts......1 is where the cab is not entirely unbolted from the frame such as leaving the 2 rear bolts tight and thus no alignment procedures are needed (my favorite) and then there is the complete cab detachment from the frame but the body is only lifted a foot or so due to overhead restrictions (mothers shelf, boom, welded on rack, ect.)

In this day and age you have to do what you can in order to get the job done in a timely manner and draw a paycheck. If a diesel engine is coming out the front of the truck then it gets a partial cab lift every time no exceptions. All the bolts are removed except the rear two and the cab is raised in the front 4 or 5 inches (looks like an alligator mouth or clam shell). If you look at the shop manual for engine removal on a 7.3 with a manual trans, it will call for trans removal first. This is because the input shaft is so damn long that the engine will hit the body and the number 1 cross member before the input shaft clears the clutch. With the alligator procedure, the trans can stay in and save tons of time. I quit removing the body to replace 6.0 or 6.4 engines, its just not needed to get them out and I can save a lot of time not having to align the body afterwards.

I still remove bodys to access turbos (6.4) and heads (6.0) and I will remove the body to get a 6.7 out because I can leave all the exhaust intact ( removing the turbo in chassis to get the lift plate bolted down sucks).

tonybullitt · August 10, 2015

Here is a picture of last partial lift i did to replace a 6.7

Alex Bruene · August 10, 2015

I have never done it on a 6.7, but on 6.4s, I remove all the body bolts except the rear row. Disconnect both battery ground cables, remove the headlights, unpin the lower radiator hose from the rad support and disconnect the cold side CAC tube from the cooler. Then, I jack up the front of the cab enough to put a 4X4 between the body and the frame.

mchan68 · August 10, 2015

I have never done it on a 6.7, but on 6.4s, I remove all the body bolts except the rear row. Disconnect both battery ground cables, remove the headlights, unpin the lower radiator hose from the rad support and disconnect the cold side CAC tube from the cooler. Then, I jack up the front of the cab enough to put a 4X4 between the body and the frame.

That is the exact method I use, when replacing the right side up-pipe on 6.4s.

Alex Bruene · August 11, 2015

I do everything on 6.4s like that... short of major engine work. I'll do turbos, oil coolers, HPFPs and such that way. I can get a RHS inlet pipe out in well under an hour using that method.