mchan68 Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 Got an early build '04 F-350 crew cab dually with a P132B, P0299 & P2263. Replace turbo, road test and monitor PIDS. VGT_LRN no, VGT_PI no. Check EGR valve, good. Cannot active command EGR open with engine running. Hearing a hissing noise from the rear of engine compartment. Thinking the turbo wasn't seated properly to the y-pipe, I rechecked the connection there, it seemed good. A former co-worker advised that it's not uncommon for the y-pipe (6K854) to crack where it flexes on the left bank side. Is this true? He also advised that replacing the pipe requires unbolting the body from the frame, and rasing a little for clearance. Is this true? How hard is this pipe to access, and replace? I know the turbo is going to have to come back off to start. Not looking for to this. Will this type exhaust leak prevent EGR valve operation? Sorry for so many questions. I'm not a veteran 6.0L tech as most of you have probably figured out. Thanks in advance guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted November 27, 2006 Share Posted November 27, 2006 Yes those y-pipes are common to leak, espessially if you disturb them. First double check your connections at the turbo, I know you said you did but just make sure. They will appear to be seated right but its hard to see if it really is with the clamp on it. Also what you might try is feeling around the y-pipe with the engine running to see if you can feel a leak, obviously becareful since its hot under there. To change the y-pipe its prety simple, just get your turbo out of the way. unbolt everything and slide it out from the top. you dont need to raise the body or anything. Depending on build date if you have the early intake manifold its going to be a little tricky but possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 I'll second the advice on the y-pipe. Guys, I have some very good advice on this. Buy a mechanic's stethoscope and when you get it, remove the hose from the metal ear piece assembly and go into your parts room and get yourself a length of vacuum hose that will fit onto the ear piece. Make it arms-length plus 6" or so. Using the open end of the hose like a microphone, run it along the y-pipe and the exhaust connections that use the marmon clamps. When the hose meets the leak you will hear a VERY distinct sound when you locate your leak. From experience, In my shop there have been quite a few instances where the technician (myself included) did not align the y-pipe to turbo connection and it leaks. This is especially possible if you are brutal with the y-pipe, bending and prying either the turbo or the pipe as the turbo goes in or out. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif And don't give me any lip! We have all done it, haven't we? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif I thought so. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieseltech Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 To find the sourse or location fo a exhaust leak remove the EBP sensor, plug the exhaust pipe with a fender cover and use your smoke mechine to fill the system. You will have no problem finding your leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 To find the source or location for a exhaust leak remove the EBP sensor, plug the exhaust pipe with a fender cover and use your smoke machine to fill the system. You will have no problem finding your leak. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif I had trouble with that method when the HotLine suggested it to look for manifold leaks but on a larger leak like these it should be good to go! Nice suggestion!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Kaylor Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 the EVAP Pro unit that MAC and matco sell have a nice big rubber cone to stuff in the pipe, it works VERY well. my first turbo i got violent installing it and bent the flange, i finally found the leak fast with a smoke machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted November 28, 2006 Share Posted November 28, 2006 smoke machines are nice when they work, someone decides to break ours! I like keiths method and use it on those hard to find leaks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted November 28, 2006 Author Share Posted November 28, 2006 Thanks Dustin & Keith. I did the smoke machine thing and found the leak right away!!! It was the y-pipe inlet to turbo cracked. Now my next question is, do I need to remove the downpipe for clearance? It appears I need to remove the transmission crossmember to remove the pipe, unlike in an E-series where it just falls off once you remove the two 15mm nuts on the flange. I want to avoid putting the truck up and down several times. I already got the turbo off again within the first hour this morning. Thanks again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted November 29, 2006 Share Posted November 29, 2006 Don't mess with the downpipe. Just disconnect it and it won't give you any trouble. When going back together the inlet pipe is the first pipe that I align and tighten the clamp. even before I tighten the 3 bolts. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted November 29, 2006 Author Share Posted November 29, 2006 Thanks. I finished the job yesterday. And that is exactly the way I did it. The truck is running happy now. Thanks again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OHNO60 Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 ifound more damage to pipe by improper servicing of r&r turbocharger by other techs prying against the pipe when instlling the turbo.i use the smoke machine tapped into the ebp sensor to test the exaust for leaks,works great for me. hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I urge my team mates at work to resist prying up on the y-pipe. I have seen all of them really apply a lot of force on it when removing an HPOP cover. As their team leader I have had the opportunity to help "fix the leak" several times. Sure, it allows the cover to come out but it causes the obvious alignment and sealing problems. And yes, I know it is hard to resist, trust me I know. I am human too. Has anyone considered or try loosening at least one of the clamp bolts at each of the manifolds? I figure loosening just the lower ones which are easier would allow the y-pipe to move enough and make turbo and HPOP cover removal/install easier. What will it take, two minutes? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Thats how I do it, most of the time you only need to loosen the driverside lower bolt. sometimes you need to do the other side as well but not always. saves the hassle of fighting the pump cover by the y-pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blown99 Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I usually remove the lower mounting bolts on the up pipe on one side and just loosen one bolt on the other side. It will give you all the slack you need to get the cover out. It takes way longer to realign the turbo to up pipe if you bend the pipe, and even when you think you have it, it leaks anyway. On some chassis that are to hard to access the lower bolts or they are rusted/rotted I have bent/pulled on the up pipe to remove it, then on reassembly, the first conenction I make is the up pipe to turbo, then I will roll the turbo down into its proper position and tighten the mounting bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DamageINC Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I've diag'd Y-pipe leaks by commanding the EGR valve on full-tilt - although this isn't really the most healthy way to get the job done, it only takes a matter of seconds and Holy Moses does it start smoking from the leak *instantly*. And then you get everyone around you in the shop screaming for the next 5 minutes about how bad it stinks. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 And then you get everyone around you in the shop screaming for the next 5 minutes about how bad it stinks. Dave I get that too, I just calmly tell them thats the smell of money..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAKE_MORSE Posted December 19, 2006 Share Posted December 19, 2006 some guys just don't appreciate the smell like we do. Do they! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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