YukonTyler Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 Those master cyl recalls are gravy train. Pull two nuts, the two lines, the brake fluid level sensor pigtail and remove the master. Install new cylinder keeping the rubber plugs in. Fill with DOT4. Remove the rearward plug and watch as the air bubbles pass through the leaking fluid. When the bubbles stop install that line. Then do the same for the forward line. Pedal is hard as a rock each and every time - total time 0.2. First couple times doing it that way I did a traditional bleed just to be sure - no air comes out and the system is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 24, 2016 Share Posted November 24, 2016 I've been bench bleeding them and after installing having someone push down the pedal while I crack both lines simultaneously. Doesn't take much longer but it works and I'm happy. I wouldn't care if we weren't pushing aside my customers and my reputation because we can't hire a general tech. I guess that is not my decision though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Wait till you get one that was leaking...fill out on-line form, part numbers labor prices wait....then get a whole .3 more to replace the booster. If don't stock it you end up doing it all over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Wait till you get one that was leaking...fill out on-line form, part numbers labor prices wait....then get a whole .3 more to replace the booster. If don't stock it you end up doing it all over. I did one like that prior to parts being available. Service support wanted pictures of the booster and the whole nine yards. It wasn't a money making proposition, and that's why I have no ill feelings toward slamming out master cylinders in 0.2 : ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 Those master cyl recalls are gravy train. Pull two nuts, the two lines, the brake fluid level sensor pigtail and remove the master. Install new cylinder keeping the rubber plugs in. Fill with DOT4. Remove the rearward plug and watch as the air bubbles pass through the leaking fluid. When the bubbles stop install that line. Then do the same for the forward line. Pedal is hard as a rock each and every time - total time 0.2. First couple times doing it that way I did a traditional bleed just to be sure - no air comes out and the system is good. So how do you get it out without moving the degas bottle? The one I am doing doesn't clear the booster when it hits the degas bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 I have been taking the 3 bolts out and tip up the whole thing. hold it in place with a bungee chord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 29, 2016 Share Posted November 29, 2016 I pull that y shaped intake duct out and pull the degas bottle/air cleaner over that way without draining any coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 1997 7.5L On one spark plug the porcelain blew out while driving, the other one was broke by there fleet mechanic.... at least he stopped. Oh yeah I thought that it was the general consensus that stuff like this should end up in Matt's bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 I have been taking the 3 bolts out and tip up the whole thing. hold it in place with a bungee chord. That's what I ended up doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 30, 2016 Share Posted November 30, 2016 Doing another coast clutch cylinder in an E-450 bus. Also sitting in here are coolers on a 6.0 f-series and a rad + horizontal cooler on a 6.4. Outside is a locked up a/c compressor on a 6.7 boom truck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Well, my 2.7 is torn apart in one of my bays, now awaiting arrival of the non-reusable oil pan (which required LOTS of force to remove) coming from the U.S. Another job that was waiting for me to get to, a 2014 Edge water pump and phasers, originally quoted CP awhile back went AWA. The advisor wrote it up this week, informing me we have the vehicle until Friday. The RO had a parts slip stapled to it, so stupid me, thinking the parts were already ordered and have arrived, rushed to get it all apart. I went to the parts counter intending on picking up all the parts and low and behold NONE were ordered. WTF??? The advisor had the balls to tell me that "ordering the parts is the tech's responsibility". Then why in the fuck was I not asked to order the goddamn parts before the appointment was made to bring the friggin' car in?!!!! Soooo....... now I can't get to my other projects in line with both of my bays now disabled in a manner in which the vehicles tying them up can't be pushed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jw33 Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Hate them 2.7 oil pans someone should be kicked in fucking nuts for that idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted December 1, 2016 Share Posted December 1, 2016 Those master cyl recalls are gravy train. Pull two nuts, the two lines, the brake fluid level sensor pigtail and remove the master. Install new cylinder keeping the rubber plugs in. Fill with DOT4. Remove the rearward plug and watch as the air bubbles pass through the leaking fluid. When the bubbles stop install that line. Then do the same for the forward line. Pedal is hard as a rock each and every time - total time 0.2. First couple times doing it that way I did a traditional bleed just to be sure - no air comes out and the system is good. So how do you get it out without moving the degas bottle? The one I am doing doesn't clear the booster when it hits the degas bottle. Kind of like doing a starter on a 6.7 - it just slides out a certain way. Generally I do it with one hand easing the degas bottle toward the headlamp, and at the same time I sIide the caster cyl out of the booster. Once the bore is out ot of the booster the cylinder gets tilted on an angle and I walk it off of the studs - usually left followed by right. Installation is opposite of removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Had customer bring 2013 in with jerking bucking at times. The so called diesel performance shop had been throwing parts at it. I told customer it's usually a crappie install on delete. ran self tests retrieved codes for frp and app codes. rolled under truck found dpf pressure sensor wires touching exhaust pipe. Put heat shrink on wires zip tied up off exhaust. 10 minutes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 2011-2012 F-150 Ecoboost. I have 2 of these to work on, truck #2 has not had full diag. On truck 1 I am planning on doing TSB 13-8-1 (revised bottom air deflector) Does not have P0430 so am not planning on doing the Cat Question...Does this seem to work & should the CAC be checked for excessive moisture? I noticed that none of the local dealers have the DL3Z-2021702-A in stock but they stock the updated CAC.I am also going to do TSB 15-0003 since the oil is overfull & the truck has too many miles for 15N05. Any hope of the TSB 15-0003 taking care of the fact that it has a sooty tailpipe & a puff of black smoke on heavy accel/cold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 2011-2012 F-150 Ecoboost. I have 2 of these to work on, truck #2 has not had full diag. On truck 1 I am planning on doing TSB 13-8-1 (revised bottom air deflector) Does not have P0430 so am not planning on doing the Cat Question...Does this seem to work & should the CAC be checked for excessive moisture? I noticed that none of the local dealers have the DL3Z-2021702-A in stock but they stock the updated CAC. I am also going to do TSB 15-0003 since the oil is overfull & the truck has too many miles for 15N05. Any hope of the TSB 15-0003 taking care of the fact that it has a sooty tailpipe & a puff of black smoke on heavy accel/cold? I would follow tsb but it will probably need plugs also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Did plugs 70 K ago, I pulled #6(P0306) & it looked fine. I guess I should hook up my Pico... This thing only misfires @ high RPM's very randomly, usually only after highway trips. I could not get it to misfire so I hosed the CAC down then I got it to misfire on heavy accel for about 30 seconds on #6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Did plugs 70 K ago, I pulled #6(P0306) & it looked fine. I guess I should hook up my Pico... This thing only misfires @ high RPM's very randomly, usually only after highway trips. I could not get it to misfire so I hosed the CAC down then I got it to misfire on heavy accel for about 30 seconds on #6. That does sound like they way the CAC acted up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 I get to install a pillar gauge set on 2014 f-350, trans temp, oil press. exhaust temp, boost, and display module of some kind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Re: Plugs 70 k ago. It likely needs plugs and coil boots again. Would not be surprised if you see carbon tracking. As you said, read your primary side on the scope and this should be quite evident. Also, not sure of your location but for us winter time is our dry season. There isn't enough humidity in the air to cause any moisture buildup in the CAC. Moreover, whatever water might be in the CAC is frozen now, anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Re: Plugs 70 k ago. It likely needs plugs and coil boots again. Would not be surprised if you see carbon tracking. As you said, read your primary side on the scope and this should be quite evident. Also, not sure of your location but for us winter time is our dry season. There isn't enough humidity in the air to cause any moisture buildup in the CAC. Moreover, whatever water might be in the CAC is frozen now, anyway. I agree with the plugs. I've seen a couple of these that do the same thing and plugs fixed them. Plus hotline told me these engines are very sensitive to spark plug gap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Re: Plugs 70 k ago. It likely needs plugs and coil boots again. Would not be surprised if you see carbon tracking. As you said, read your primary side on the scope and this should be quite evident. Also, not sure of your location but for us winter time is our dry season. There isn't enough humidity in the air to cause any moisture buildup in the CAC. Moreover, whatever water might be in the CAC is frozen now, anyway. I agree with the plugs. I've seen a couple of these that do the same thing and plugs fixed them. Plus hotline told me these engines are very sensitive to spark plug gap. Agree on the plugs had an 11 in today with 57k miles and fixed misfire with spark plugs and coil boots. The truck had not had the cac tsb done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted December 9, 2016 Share Posted December 9, 2016 Truck 2 is fixed. Plugs, COP boots & TSB 15-0003(Brown PCV & Reflash)...Oh yeah 1 coil also..It rolled off my tool cart & broke the flange above top seal...So guess who gets to eat a coil I just so happened to order 2 coils in just in case...I pull the first coil off the parts shelf and guess what it's broke in the same spot. So note to self do not drop those Denso style coils. :hammer: Truck 1 will be back next week....still waiting on the positive battery cable end to come in, I guess Ford had to make it??? Thanks for all the input Tony, Tyler & Zach Now I am not having much confidence in the 13-8-1 fixing the random misfire...Anybody need a $3x.xx piece of flat rubber.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I got 3 F-series 6.0 trucks here that need coolers. One eseries bus that needs injectors and 2 vehicles that need exhaust manifolds. Ones a 4.6L 3 valve police explorer and the other a 5.4L 3 valve F-250 I'm fucking drowning right now. I haven't been able to stay on one job longer than a few hours at a time for weeks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 2006 6L no base oil pressure, got ok to tear down and find the cause. 2006 6L coming in Monday for a drop in engine. 2012 on my hoist waiting for go ahead on DEF tank heater and DPF sensor. 2016 Fuel filters and winter front. 3 Adesa Auction House(Local Ford Motor Company lease return and repo management company) units for no start 6.7L's to pick through. Plus I need to sneak in my 2013 Escape tomorrow after work and start tearing out the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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