forddieseldoctor Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 Block warped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 I'm not sure yet. The history of this truck is questionable, the headgaskets/egr cooler were said to be done about 2-3 years ago. The standpipes have a early 2013 date stamped on them so I can buy this. When I first saw this truck a few months ago it had a badly ruptured oil cooler. When I got in there I found a dorman EGR cooler and a factory original oil cooler. Whoever did the gaskets/EGR cooler did not know enough to change the oil cooler. At this time I fixed a ripped cac boot and a biased EBP sensor that most definitely had the truck severely under powered. That is when the truck started purging from the degas bottle while towing Yesterday I removed the heads. The bolts were either severely stretched or not torqued correctly to begin with. They all seemed equally as loose. Much to my surprise the gaskets looked fine on the head side. I'm going to check valve recession on Monday because I believe these heads were machined. I can see grinding disc marks on the block but not on the heads and they are 18mm which means they haven't been replaced in the last 4-5 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 I can't figure out what's the deal with these heads. All the valves are recessed about .020" which is right where the factory sets them. If these heads were machined it wasn't some quickie job.The block has some pretty bad gouge marks from a roloc disc but it's otherwise flat. I hate those damn discs. You go through all that trouble to make sure the heads are flat then you grind on the deck like its got the tolerances of an exhaust manifold.Here's 2 pictures of what I'm dealing with. The first is a good example of what not to do to a block. The second is a excellent example of how not to fix a leaking oil pan. It's hard to see but that is mig wire poking through on the inside of the pan. Yes I did find one piece stuck in the pickup tube. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeR Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 DEF Quality codes on a Cummins. Another plugged injector. At least the diffuser pipe and SCR are not plugged with the stuff. Close up of tip: Diffuser pipe. A little drool in there, but not bad. Crust at the entrance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanG Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 By the looks of that thing Matt, I'd be done with it and price a long block assuming the rest of the engine isn't totally hacked to shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Here's the best yet. Pieces of welding wire stuck in the inlet of the oil cooler. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Any comments on the reddish color? Is this rust intrusion from somewhere or contamination? I can't think of anything that's steel in this system....... DEF Quality codes on a Cummins. Another plugged injector. At least the diffuser pipe and SCR are not plugged with the stuff. Close up of tip: Diffuser pipe. A little drool in there, but not bad. Crust at the entrance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 The block has some pretty bad gouge marks from a roloc disc but it's otherwise flat. I hate those damn discs. You go through all that trouble to make sure the heads are flat then you grind on the deck like its got the tolerances of an exhaust manifold. Not to sound dumb... but what do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Scotch brite and a straight razor blade. I jam rags on top of the lifters and vacuum/blow out the coolant passages when I'm done to minimize the dust. I have used discs on other stuff, but I can't do it on head gasket surfaces. Yes it takes longer but I've done every one that way. Since I've never had any problems I can't seem to switch to faster methods. I did my first set of headgaskets without any instruction other than the WSM and at that point I'd never even seen someone work on a 6.0. I didn't realize that no one was still doing it that way until years later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_Kelsoe Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 2015 F-350- Getting front brakes and primary radiator, OFL, Fuel Filters. All retail. 2011 F-250- Getting thermostats and replacing the turbo base gasket for an oil leak. 2012 F350- Has a broken LR axle shaft on a Dana 80. Concern was wouldn't pull in 2wd. They drove it in on the front axle. Gave the customer 2 options, install a new axle shaft, flush tubes and housing, and refill. Then if road test found any noise they can either continue to driver it or replace all the bearings. Waiting on approval. 2014 E350 bus- Came on with CEL on. Wrong gas cap installed causing a gross leak. Correct cap fixed that, now waiting on approval to do front and rear brakes. 2014 E250- 4R75 Trans- appears planetary came apart, this thing has a crap ton of metal in the pan, burnt fluid, and slipping. Its out of warranty so it got quoted a reman. Also quoted a set of convertors for the P0430 set in the PCM. Waiting on approval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanG Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 15 F550 concrete dump truck 6R140 trans. pump seal. The concrete dust does not come off and entire trans. is covered in this shit. 12 F250 with a P20EE getting a dpf/scr assembly 97 F250 7.3 no start/long crank low fuel pressure 06 Sprinter died while going down the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 The block has some pretty bad gouge marks from a roloc disc but it's otherwise flat. I hate those damn discs. You go through all that trouble to make sure the heads are flat then you grind on the deck like its got the tolerances of an exhaust manifold. Not to sound dumb... but what do you use? I start with a brass scraper and brake cleaner, then the scotch brite pad, then finish off what's left with a straight razor blade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Tomorrow starts a retail fuel system, turbo and DPF/SCR on a 12 F-550 service truck. This one is a twin to the 22k lb one I just put a tranny in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 The block has some pretty bad gouge marks from a roloc disc but it's otherwise flat. I hate those damn discs. You go through all that trouble to make sure the heads are flat then you grind on the deck like its got the tolerances of an exhaust manifold. Not to sound dumb... but what do you use? I start with a brass scraper and brake cleaner, then the scotch brite pad, then finish off what's left with a straight razor blade. roloc discs work great if your smart about them. I used them for every headgasket job I had and never had a repeat issue. I know it was frowned upon but again use your head when using them all will be good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I save up the 3/4 used up ones for heads. They polish more than cut. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 The 3m scotch brite disc come in different textures.Keep in mind that the fine texture or any is not recommended by the OE's. I would be cautious about a used one that may have contamination from another job. What ever was used on the picture that Matt posted looks terrible...like a grinder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sneakypete Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I use this with great results http://superscraper.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I use this with great results http://superscraper.com Those look awesome! I see one in my future for sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I also have these https://store.snapon.com/Window-Scrapers-8-Plastic-Blade-Windshield-Scraper-Blue-Point--P636291.aspx https://store.snapon.com/Scrapers-Multipurpose-Scraper-Blue-Point--P641054.aspx On most of the late model stuff I just very carefully use the razor blade style. The blue point & super scraper I have used more in the past for felt type gaskets. I have found that diesel fuel works great for making short work of RTV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy_M Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 +1 on the super scraper. I have one and like the results it gives on manifolds, heads,water pumps etc without the worry of gouging the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Various EGT sensors, finished up 3 DEF tank heaters, 09 F550 bed plate reseal. 2015 that shut down during regen, P060A PCM processor fault and all 8 injectors high to low side short. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanG Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 08 F550 ambulance, leaking bed plate, cyl. 1 compression 375 psi, all others 400 plus and p2291 97 F250 leaking oil pan 05 F350 1 fuel injector and cracked charge air cooler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Monday I have to start on a repeat upper oil pan reseal on an F-550 I did last year. I really hate that damn procedure. I think I might do the timing cover too this time Also got a set of tranny cooler lines on a 17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 I just finished an oil leak that looked like it was just the oil pan. I took the timing cover off and found the gasket was flat and leaking right at the lower part of the block. That lower coolant jacket must have some hot coolant coming out of it because that gaskets was baked hard. Front timing cover on a 6.7 is not one of my favourite jobs, the front crank seal remover does not work. Has that tool worked for anyone else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 I'll be able to tell you later this week. I've got that 15 F-550 that I resealed about a year ago in here now. This time it's getting a front cover reseal too. The RF t-joint is really leaking. I am really getting sick of Fords shit, I knew without a doubt this upper pan wasnt going to seal in the chassis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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