What's In Your Bay - Part VI

[8WA Sman]

F-550 and Expedition probably use a different PATS system.

[forddieseldoctor]

I understand that. I just figured that most of the new ones were gonna be similar.

[Matt Saunoras]

Not sure how the expedition works but a PATs key shouldn't need to be present for the OE remote start to work. If it was present that may be a trigger to not allow the system to operate.

 

Also I'm not familiar with anything that needs to be near the transceiver for it to remote start. The super duties and F-150s aren't like this.

[Matt Saunoras]

Waiting on too many back ordered diesel parts, got a police explorer in here with a 3.7. Massive amounts of coolant in the oil, engine knocking real bad. Put a pressure tester on the degas bottle and it just puffs out the oil fill cap

[forddieseldoctor]

Not sure how the expedition works but a PATs key shouldn't need to be present for the OE remote start to work. If it was present that may be a trigger to not allow the system to operate.Also I'm not familiar with anything that needs to be near the transceiver for it to remote start. The super duties and F-150s aren't like this.

It was a ford add on system. I've used a key next to the cylinder to diagnois ford remote starts before.

[DieselD]

warranty crane work to replace a spacer under the turret.

 

[Matt Saunoras]

Not too sure what the fuck is going on here.

 

Got this 14 F-550 here. Long story short I put a turbo and a fan clutch in it.  Hooked up IDS, took it for a test drive and a few miles down the road the IC goes dead but the truck still runs, at the same time the IC dies the IDS loses communication.  Feels like it's defaulted to 5th gear but luckily I made it back to the shop. 

 

So I'm in the shop, can't wrap my head around anything yet.  No IDS so I can't scan anything.  Unplug it from the DLC and the IC pops back to life.  Plug the IDS back in KOEO, everything is okay for a few minutes and it dies out again, can't start the truck at this point.  Pull the DLC and we're back on.  No lights or any symptoms remain.

 

I can wiggle the data link connector with the IDS on live network test and everything goes ape shit.  All of HS-can will drop off and come back on randomly.  I stole some pins from a new DLC connector and spliced in new ones for HS +/-.  No change.  Tried a different IDS because I updated mine today, still does it. Pulled back 12" of DLC wiring and there is nothing there, absolutely nothing happens unless I wiggle the IDS connector plugged into the DLC.

 

I need some sleep

[forddieseldoctor]

Had my first popped fuse on the cruise deactivation jumper harness. Too bad it was on my own truck.

[tonybullitt]

17 super duty at Detroit auto show.

[tonybullitt]

To busy to get better pics

[tonybullitt]

17 raptor

[cbriggs]

Matt I've had that same thing happen with the ids, if there is a poor/ partial connection at the dlc.

[cbriggs]

At work in my bay: 11 ecoboost, torn down to bare block for esp approval on an engine for a broken piston, damaged cylinder wall. (actually not in my bay, but we are shorthanded right now, so I tore the cab off in another bay) So far its been over 7 days apart, waiting on prior approval still..... actually in my bay, a shit ton of oil changes and fmpp, rad and wp on a Toyota Tacoma, coil pack on a Saturn. At home: injection pump on a 91 7.3 IDI , that runs most of its life on veggie oil. No not bio diesel, straight veggie oil. Pump seized solid and broke the shaft off. Go figure. It smells like French fries and chicken wings in my shop right now. Still working on the 37 ford truck resto mod as well. Oh yeah, and my 1979 arctic cat pantera 5000 resto project....

[Matt Saunoras]

Some weird stuff is going on at the shop.  We've got 4 guys on the other side that cant keep up with all the light duty work and the other certified guy we have who works with me is on light duty too.  He's going in for knee surgery next week.   

 

I have a police explorer I'm working on dropping the whole powertrain out but for the last few days my service manager has been loading me up with crap and having me help everyone else in the shop out.  I should have went in today to do work on the interceptor but there was plenty of time during the week to work on it.  It's getting bad at work, I do so much shit that isn't turning wrenches. 

[Matt Saunoras]

Here's that failed 3.7 water pump

[mchan68]

Here's that failed 3.7 water pump

Looks like a pretty standard 3.5/3.7 water pump to me. Done LOTS in the last couple of years. If I recall correctly, the original pump uses a 7 blade impeller while the replacement uses 11. I MIGHT have even posted pics here a while back. For what it's worth, you don't need to drop the powertrain on an Explorer to remove the timing chain cover like you would on a Edge/MKX.

 

ON EDIT: I just read your other post in the Prior Approval ESP thread. In those kinds of situations, your best bet is to get your service manager to sign off on ALL MT time you need, for disassembly diagnosis to satisfy the Gods at Prior Approval, failing which you should just get him to internal the time you need to cover it, then just claim your base labor ops for whatever repair you are approved for. I know how much ESP sucks, BTDTGTTS,

[Matt Saunoras]

Yeah that pump is locked up and the timing chain sheared all the teeth off.  Believe it or not that engine actually ran and drove in the building like that.  I may have tried to blow it up in my bay but eventually the timing went so far out it just wouldn't run anymore.   

 

I have done to date one water pump that I can remember.  It was so long ago that even the FSE didn't know the coolant leak in the valley was from the weep hole. 

[cbriggs]

I had a 3.5 do exactly that to a water pump. I got approval on a complete easily, but it wasn't esp, it was base warranty.

[jimmy57]

I think they should go one step further with this imbedded water pump stuff. Put a flat roller on one of the crank counter weights and a piece of hose on a curved guide. Every crank rev the roller will displace coolant through the hose just like when you roll a socket down an RTV tube to get that last bit of good out of the tube. The hose can have snap-to-connect fittings on each end. No way it would ever fail and dump coolant into oil.

I should patent this and then send it to Dearborn.

[Matt Saunoras]

Luckily that's what this is, base powertrain warranty.  I have never torn down a gas engine run on coolant so I don't know really what to expect. 

[lmorris]

Putting a used engine in a 2007 F350. Service manager picked the truck up for $1000.00. It's in pretty decent shape.

[8WA Sman]

I got a '99 7.3 that has all glow plugs ohming out in the k ohms. I pulled the bank 2 valve cover and glow plugs and the glow plugs all still ohm in the k ohm scale. The glow plugs do not look damaged/broke.

What causes all of the glow plugs to go bad?

I think I can count on one hand all the '99 and newer 7.3 glow plugs I have replced. The glow relay was bad(12 volts of voltage drop across the old relay)

[Keith Browning]

I got a '99 7.3 that has all glow plugs ohming out in the k ohms. I pulled the bank 2 valve cover and glow plugs and the glow plugs all still ohm in the k ohm scale. The glow plugs do not look damaged/broke.What causes all of the glow plugs to go bad?I think I can count on one hand all the '99 and newer 7.3 glow plugs I have replced. The glow relay was bad(12 volts of voltage drop across the old relay)

Could just be age and wear. I have seen multiple glow plugs fail on 7.3L engines many times. As usual be sure to inspect the harnesses and pass though valve cover terminals. They say excessive battery voltage can shorten the life of glow plugs so checking the system voltage at start up is in your best interest. Remember that if the truck has dual generators, the lower generator is controlled by the PCM which turns it off when the glow plugs are commanded on to avoid possible damage to the glow plugs. Faults there should result in DTC's in the PCM. I have also seen some non-OEM high output systems installed on trucks that might also cause issues.

 

A post like this REALLY should have been it's own topic. That makes it better for discussions and allows the topic to be searchable.

[JoeR]

I got a '99 7.3 that has all glow plugs ohming out in the k ohms. I pulled the bank 2 valve cover and glow plugs and the glow plugs all still ohm in the k ohm scale. The glow plugs do not look damaged/broke.What causes all of the glow plugs to go bad?I think I can count on one hand all the '99 and newer 7.3 glow plugs I have replced. The glow relay was bad(12 volts of voltage drop across the old relay)

 

It's tough to know when they all died, but if they all quit at the same time they were probably murdered.  Maybe they were boosting it at high voltage and turned they key on.  

 

Joe

[lmorris]

2009 6.4L-customer installed an over the counter short block 7 months ago and now it's locked up solid.

2011 6.7L waiting on ok for retail egr cooler core.

2012 6.7L with an exhaust leak at the left manifold.

Just finished up an EGR valve and EBP tube on an 04 E350... Thing has 475,000 KM on it.

Along with the usual EGT sensors and a few 14E03's left out there that have yet to be done.

Starting to slow down on the DEF tank heaters though.