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What's In Your Bay - Part VI

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Keith Browning

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Doing the exact same thing right now. Boom truck that wont run, I was only able to tilt the cab back a few inches. Truck was from out of state and came in for oil change and def top off. Oil change guy put def in the fuel tank, truck made it about 3 miles and quit. High pressure pump locked up and the crank gear spun on the crank. Oil change guy realized he put a gallon or so of def in it before he stopped and switched the nozzle over to the fuel tank fill but he assured me that it was ok because he drove it around the block before giving the truck back to the customer. :cheers-jeers:

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This one I have the engine out of....it has 3 broken injector hold down clamps on the left side. #7 injector was frozen in the bore. Could have easily broken the special tool but I stopped and put on the brain hat for a minute.

 

Cut an injector line, removed the fitting and welded it to a 5/8" fine thread nut. Same size as your typical slide hammer. Took about 10 wacks but it came out, the head is ruined.

 

Don't mind the shitty welds, I'll make a better attempt later when I have more time

image.jpg

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Still employed. He was helping the tranny guys and they got sick of his screw ups. Left wheels loose, tightened trans. mount down on wiring harness on focus etc. Unbelievable.

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We have terrible management right now. All the good technicians are spread so thin right now and nobody that knows what they're doing is applying so they're filling up the shop with an army of dipshits who cause problems like this. We have lost 4 experienced techs over the last 2 years who have left the industry completely and this is what replaces them.

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2008 F550. 51100 kms, 2957 hrs.....Oil cooler and flush. Cab tilt only because the spare tire carrier that hangs over the cab is welded in place to the service body. It's the one with all the EGR cooler installation issues.

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Had some lower rear door latches frozen on a 15 F-150 super cab a month or so ago (TSB). Well the latches finally came in today. The rear lower cables actually pulled through the handle. That wasnt too big of a deal. Got the rears done thinking that wasnt too bad but the TSB wants you to remove and lube the fronts also. That's where they screw you. No wonder no one wants to do this anymore.

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- 11 Edge for a rear diff vent, plugs, tranny service, PTU rear output seal

- lots of prepaid oil changes

- work was denied on a retail 5.0 cyl head, so swap accessories from the bad unit to a similar good unit. brakes all around on the good unit, too

 

anything right now to make a pay cheque

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I currently have a 94 M998A1 (Military Hummer) in my bay with the GM 6.2 diesel. A very loyal ex-military customer purchased in from a auction a few weeks ago. Started using coolant and white smoking from the exhaust. Pulled the body off where I could pull the heads and found both head gaskets had failed and it also appears that a injector was leaking on #6, as the piston is burnt. All cylinders are badly scored, so we are ordering a complete engine from Jasper in the morning. This is one of those customer's that don't mind spending the money, he just wants it done right.  

 

Also in my bay is a 06 F-550 boom truck that I gotta pull the engine out for a reseal. Both rocker boxes and bedplates are leaking oil.   

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When I had the shop we had a lot of 6.2/6.5 GM customers.  Coolant loss was always a complaint and we pulled the heads on many of them to find leaking gaskets and scored cylinders.  I don't think we ever put the heads back on one of those.  At the time remans were either NA or $$$$ so they got new GM engines.  And Chevy guys call 6.0's a POS?  Ha!

 

:grin:

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Think our price on the 6.2 was around $6500. They are building one for us, should have it next Friday. Customer picked up the Humvee for around $4k  and he wants it to keep and use on his farm. He also picked up a 5 ton truck that had been completely rebuilt 2 years prior for $2500. He also has a tricked out 2014 F-450(pickup truck version) with lift, custom bed with all kinds of storage space, exo-cage, 5 winches, etc.  I put ARB Air Lockers in it little over a year ago. Trying to talk him into putting lockers in the Humvee while I got it here.

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Well it started because its easier to pull engines that way. The racks are too close to the wall for my liking. I'd be standing on top of my boxes and bench if I pulled in. I feel like to have more room to move around if I work in the middle of the shop.

 

Also my left bay is right next to the shitter. Not a good corner to be in....ever.

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Got an 02 7.3 bucket truck here.  Towed in, lost power shut off and won't restart.  Verified no ICP.  Check Oil level, none on the stick.  Checked HPOP reservoir, it's dry.  Added 10 qts to the pan and 1 qt to the reservoir.  Drove it around, runs fine.  Checked the fuel filter housing and the fuel is black with oil.

 

What do you guys usually do here?  Do you sell 8 injectors or do you remove them all and check the O-rings and bench test?  This engine had been replaced recently but I'm not sure the extent of what was done.  Has anyone ever seen this be a cup or head issue? 

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95% of the time it's injector o-rings, once in a great while it's the injectors passing oil themselves. Ask if the injectors were replaced, if they are original sell them 8 inj, if they've been replaced you could do o-rings and maybe have them tested for S&G. It's the center o-ring that's leaking, inspect those plus where it seats on the cup.  If they have not been replaced lately most guys would put injectors in it. I have some shops that do cups on 7.3s when the injectors are out and I don't fault them for that because they are usually high miles (but maybe yours isn't).

 

The head can be worn where the top o-ring sits but that's usually a HP leak and not oil into fuel.

 

Good Luck!

 

:grin:

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Thanks for the input Bruce. This customer has a fleet maintenance company that deals with repair costs. I like to at least try and know what I'm talking about before calling them. I am going to sell additional diag to remove the injectors and inspect.

 

I have the tool to vacuum test the injector for an internal leak. Is this a viable test?

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Actually, it's not a bad test for just the nozzles and it's quick, preferable is a bench test at a pump shop ($30-40/ea, 70-80% accurate on test results) but the mgt co probably won't pop for it. Knowing fleet maint cos, if you get a guy who knows diesels he'll tell you to put o-rings in it and ship it.

 

If it runs now look at Perdels, 1-7 should be low, anything over 1.5-2ish is a yellow flag.  #8 is usually 2.5 or more, it takes 3+ to set a code. Look at MFDES, (Mass Fuel Desired) if it's high (like .14-.16+ at a hot idle) the truck is starving for fuel from either bad injs or low fuel pressure. Compare MFDES while you're killing cyls to see if there's strong/weak cyls so you'll have some ammunition for the mgt co. Run the cyl cont test 2-3 times idling in drive and see if it sets codes. I suggest doing a compression test these days on all non-Ford CAN engines (7.3 PSD and all IH) to CYA for possible engine problems. It sucks to put injectors in it and have it run "not quite perfect". 

 

Here's a happy 7.3:

 

gallery_59_146_13952.jpg

 

Good Luck!

 

:grin:

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Thanks for the info! Got another 00 7.3 here for some driveabilty issues that I can't get to act up.

 

It definitely misses and carries on when it's cold but after its warm it runs fine. Checked most of the usual stuff but the only thing I found was a dark gray and silver cam sensor installed. This is the OBS sensor if I recall correctly. Would it make any difference?

 

The old sensor has an international number on it. 1876736C91

 

The new light gray ford sensor says 1876735C91.

 

Switching the sensors dust make any difference in the perdels even after I cleared KAM. I checked fuel pressure, fuel inlet restriction and oil level/aeration and it was all okay. Even though this truck only has 67k miles I bet it needs injectors.

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I've seen issues with all of the sensors so whenever there's a problem you must always try a sensor, and sometimes shim it too.

 

Pull the secondary FF, have the new guy suck it dry with a straw, fill the housing with fuel conditioner, start it briefly and then cold soak it outside to see how it runs in the AM. Commonly the barrels and plungers gall and fuel lubricity additive makes it run perfect for a few minutes. I have great pics if you want them, in class I say if you're unsure to sacrifice one inj and disassemble it for inspection. Most times you'll confirm your diag.

 

It probably needs injectors but I suggest a physical comp test to CYA also. With older trucks you never know what you're going to run into, and CYA is the most important thing.

 

:grin:

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Got a 190k 05 6.0L here that still has the injector post cycling program in it. Does anyone remember what year that would have been from? Most of my coworkers had never heard it before. Its a long time now that the programing has been inductive heating.

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Got a 190k 05 6.0L here that still has the injector post cycling program in it. Does anyone remember what year that would have been from? Most of my coworkers had never heard it before. Its a long time now that the programing has been inductive heating.

I'm going to hazard a guess and say the post cycling came in around early 2005 and the inductive heating was sometime in 2006. Only on the basis that I had done a few before leaving my last dealership in 2006.

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