ktmlew Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 So how do you guys handle these? On a box van its really tough to get a good lift by hand if the van isn't able to be lifted very high. I fingered-out a way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Took about 4 tries to get the angle right. Marked the links so it was easy peazy on other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted December 3, 2015 Author Share Posted December 3, 2015 Was talking to co-worker at start of video. Actually did the whole thing with one hand. Need to bring my GoPro in for this stuff. Phone is hard to know when it's pointed right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Test drove truck from above today. High frequency vibration/dddddddddddd from rear brakes. WTF? New drums. It was doing the same thing before I replaced the drums but actually worse now. We do NOT have a brake lathe. I knock the studs in about 70% of way with hammer handle then seat them with air hammer. Then flip over and tighten lug nuts with 120lb torque stick. Install hub and install wheels with 120lb torque stick. Found RR had a snug spot when shoes were run up really close. Swapped on another hub/used drum assembly and all good. Will knock studs out and inspect mating surfaces for debris. We have some rotors and drums we intend to have turned so i have some ready-to-go spares. I would prefer to have drum machined with it assembled to hub. Do you guys machine new drums? These are AM Wearever Advance parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 I'm sure we've all been through it at some point in time (myself most definitely included), so my words of wisdom to offer is NEW DOESN'T MEAN GOOD. For what it's worth, I had an F-250 come in on my doorstep that the owner had just had a four wheel brake job done recently (pads & rotors) himself. Complaint was a horrible vibration during braking. I didn't even need to take it out of the parking lot before noticing it myself. After removing the wheels and seeing the runout, I SUGGESTED new front hubs (feedback was in the steering wheel). He ended up replacing the hubs himself, only to have the same symptom present and returned shortly after. Long story short, a new set of Ford OEM rotors repaired the issue (runout measured 0.001" before re-installing wheels to verify repair). Just last week, anouther tech did a front brake pad and rotor replace on an older Ford Escape only to have the woman return screaming mad about a noise since the repair. The shop foreman played with it. Second set of rotors didn't repair it. New caliper and anchor plate didn't repair it. THIRD set of rotors repaired it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredsvt Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 You probably won't find a properly machined set of new (aka Chinese) drums. I think they go through a ton of dropping and whatnot on the ride over. Machining on hub on a GM is a bear with the trapped outer bearings. And you'll have to pull the snap ring and clean the hubs out completely after machining. BTW, I really, really dislike GM and their trapped hubbed drum setup. Did a Dodge dually, 3 sets (at least they were hub-less). This is nothing new with the bigger rear drums since everything has gone overseas. Can't even get a set of Mexican made drums any more. Of all things, a Honda Accord w/rear drums that were just plain rotted away after 300k and 16 years, 3 sets of Chinese drums all progressively worse. The nasty machining marks and hot spots on new drums after a 3 mile test drive was disappointing to say the least. I demanded Honda's Japanese made drums, all better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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