Matt Saunoras Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Anyone had the pleasure of disassembling one of these yet? We've got an early 11 mustang here, sold at another dealer, brought to our sister Lincoln store for repair, then they passed it off on us. Now I never heard the noise because I didn't start working on it but the customer stated it had noise in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears and I believe while it was idling in neutral. I remember hearing a few years ago these MT-82s were junk but we don't sell many mustangs and work on even less. A quick Internet search confirmed the 11-12s can be hit or miss. Our tranny guy is "sick" so I tore this one down. Pressing this thing apart was the hardest part. I had to run down to the truck shop down the road and borrow an OTC 1041 2/3 jaw puller. This worked good enough but it was still a little scary. I also used the rear flange nut to press against when removing the 1st and reverse gears, then again to remove the center support. This puller worked well enough for all the pulling jobs this tranny required. Fitting the case in our shop press? Once again not easy but doable to remove the counter shaft and input shaft. I'm thinking the noise this tranny had was likely the input shaft pocket bearing, it felt the roughest of them all and showed minor scoring. I'll also be replacing the front input and counter shaft bearings along with the center support bearings. The input shaft and 5th gear teeth have odd wear on them probably due to the looseness of the input bearing. Other than that the unit is clean inside, no damage to any of the synchros that I can see (low miles). The input shaft and pocket bearing kit are updated part numbers. Of course the pocket bearing kit is on backorder, we're getting one sent in from another dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 I can't help you on the tranny but the other day you mentioned you didn't have a hot plate. I don't have one anymore either, I sold it with the shop. Recently while building a VW motor I needed to heat the crank gear to install it, I used two halogen lights which worked perfect. It only took a couple of minutes and the gear slid on with a gloved hand. I've heard of other guys using a regular 100w trouble light to do the same thing. Good Luck! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Good thinkin Bruce! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 It's funny, the WSM has you warming the input shaft bearing in the case to install the input shaft. They want you using a heat gun. Encased in aluminum I'd think that bearing takes a while to warm up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbudge Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Watch the 5th gear blocker ring, with skip shift they like to wear out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy_M Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 I have a cheap toaster oven with a timer for these kind of jobs. Set timer for 10-15min with the bearings I would need, and when the timer went off I'd be ready to drop them on. I've also used a heat gun, or carefully with a small butane torch to heat the inner race, especially on driveshaft carrier bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 5th gear blocker looks okay but I went and double checked. 2nd is a little burned up looking so I'm going to replace it. I'm not familiar with MT repair but the parts for this thing seem to be insanely cheap in cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Well this has definitely been a learning experience. I'm not done with reassembly yet but I feel like I'm in the clear. The rear half is ready to go on in the morning. So far the trans feels much smoother than it did prior to disassembly. The first pic is the new 5th gear on the counter shaft and new pocket bearing inner race on the output shaft. Those were the 2 hardest things I encountered with this trans. If you need to press the 5th or 6th gear off the counter shaft you better have one hell of a press. The WSM says you may need up to 18k lbs to get these gears off. Needless to say our shitty damn press was not up to the task. The book says not to heat the gear but I tried anyways, it did absolutely nothing but make our press frame bend into a shape not commonly seen. The truck shop down the street has a 40 ton press so once again they bailed me out. It only took 3 tons to get the gear off so it shows how weak our press really is. As for the pocket bearing inner race there is no foreseeable way to reasonably get this damn thing off . There is a small round snap ring above it that does zero job holding it in place, this thing is pressed on tight. After fucking around for a half hour I finally figured out what to do. With a cutoff wheel I ground 2 opposing notches in it. I tightened my bearing splitter into the notches and pressed on the shaft with a 13mm socket. Once I had the inner race off the output shaft a little bit then I finished it off with a diagonal slice with the cutoff wheel. Cracked the race and off it came. Also don't worry if 4th gear wont go in until the countershaft bolt is in and tight and the center support is snugged down. For me the countershaft didn't go all the way into the front bearing initially. The WSM wants the trans locked in 4th and 6th to torque the bolt, I wound up doing it in 3rd and 5th. Once everything was seated 4th was fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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