2013 Escape 1.6L turbo replacement.

lmorris · December 5, 2016

So the turbo on my 2013 Escape needs to be replaced. The bypass solenoid is stuck open, so very little boost...and it's leaking oil. Has anyone here had the pleasure of changing the turbo on these things? PTU and cat have to come out. I am wondering it will come out the top. I will update with pics on the process, when I get a chance to get it in.

mchan68 · December 5, 2016

HAVE FUN!!! I vaguely recall having to change one on a 2.0L Escape awhile back. Lining up the cat pipe was the biggest PITA I encountered on that one. Yours, being a 1.6L will have three bolts securing the cat to the turbo. The biggest one of the three, is the one that tends to seize up inside the housing. The moment you attempt to remove it, be prepared for it to snap off inside the housing.

lmorris · December 5, 2016

Not worried about broken bolts because they all go into the turbo, which is being replaced.

tonybullitt · December 5, 2016

I pull subframe to do them on escapes.

lmorris · December 6, 2016

I pull subframe to do them on escapes.

I have heard of others doing that. Thanks for the tip.

YukonTyler · December 6, 2016

They're not too bad - did one about a month ago for an internal open in the wastegate (seemed silly that you couldn't get that component separately.

No need to pull the subframe. Needs to go out the bottom as you'll never get one of the 8 mm bolts out which holds the turbo to the catalyst. Make sure you order those bolts - they will likely break. PTU removal is required to get to those bolts, too - just remove the dog bone and have a helper roll the engine toward the rad to aid removal.Otherwise, I leave the catalyst in place - no need to drop the whole exhaust. Rear prop shaft stays put too - just unbolt from the PTU.

PTU/bracket removal will require the cowl to come off and some of the air intake plumbing to be removed, but all that stuff comes off pretty easily. With that junk off there are some upper bolts which are easily accessed. I also yard the battery and tray in order to disconnect the small 8 mm bolt on the rear of the block which holds the left side turbo coolant line.

batmantech · December 6, 2016

For what its worth, Both 2.0 and 1.6 I have done went out the bottom. And I followed the shop manual.

tonybullitt · December 6, 2016

The subframe removal isn't necessary but after doing without removing and then trying with removed. I will not be leaving subframe in again. The subframe comes out very quickly and goes in easy.

tonybullitt · December 6, 2016

I should say we have 2 powertrain lifts.

batmantech · December 6, 2016

2 lifts wow. The powertrain lift here consists of a step stool made of 2x4's and some blocks of wood.

tonybullitt · December 6, 2016

yeah, I am fortunate my boss is good about equipment. Sometimes it works out when I have subframe on one and powertrain on the other.

tonybullitt · December 7, 2016

This one is great for subframes. Air operated is quick rolls good easy to move around

tonybullitt · December 7, 2016

This one is better for powertrain way more stable. This one is slow and clumsy to push around

lmorris · December 7, 2016

We got one in similar to the second one for the Transit engine I was supposed to be removing....Now we can't get a hold of the guy to book it in...

lmorris · December 19, 2016

Turbo is in and working :partay: . Removing the sub-frame is the way to go.

However I still have a "chugging/bucking" on acceleration from a coast. Off the line it's great. Coast to make a turn or get slowed down by traffic and go to accelerate and it will chug and go nowhere. If I manually shift the transmission down a gear or 2 to get the revs up, or use cruise control to accelerate, it WON'T do it.

Taking my IDS and flight recorder home tonight to get some recordings. This has me stumped. It has new plugs and coils. It also has 160,000 KM'S on it.

8WA Sman · December 22, 2016

I have no experience with the 1.6L. With that in mind it sounds like a calculation error maybe from a sensor. (APP, CACT, or O2 sensor.) The other thing is VCT or timing? So no codes?

lmorris · December 22, 2016

Been chasing a P0420 catalyst below threshold for quite some time now, never could get it away from my wife long enough to do any real diagnosis. When the code first stated setting it never had any drive-ability issues. Then the lack of power started, but very minimal, then the low boost code, then the hesitation. The turbo was changed because it was puking oil at the turbo bypass solenoid. At the time it never occurred to me that the cat may be plugging. After turbo replacement highway power was back to how it was before replacement, but it's still got the bog. Short term fuel trims go to -7% when it happens. Gas tech said to replace the cat. At $255 my cost it's getting one. Both O2 sensors are reading normal.

Bruce Amacker · December 23, 2016

Compare manifold vacuum at an idle and 2000RPM, vacuum is usually the same or higher if the engine can breathe. If vac is lower at 2K than at idle, you probably have a restricted exhaust.

:grin:

Matt Saunoras · December 23, 2016

Compare manifold vacuum at an idle and 2000RPM, vacuum is usually the same or higher if the engine can breathe. If vac is lower at 2K than at idle, you probably have a restricted exhaust.

:thumbup:

lmorris · December 27, 2016

After thinking back on my datalogger readings it was doing that. Finished up on Saturday, all's good. Cat was plugged. Going to have another look at the PPT to see what I missed. There is no easy way to check exhaust restriction on these things first off.