ktmlew Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Are you guy pulling the instrument panel back on the RH side to do these? That one damn duct it's behind just doesn't want to come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 No, but maybe I should they do suck. I usually try and sell both at same time. On my personal truck I did Rh under warranty about a month after warranty was done Lh failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy57 Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 I'm waiting for the makers of these door motors to buy out a company that makes the plastic used for blister packaging. If those little gears were made from that tough shit then the teeth wouldn't strip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 It has been a while but I am pretty sure I get those out with the dash in place. Couldn't tell you how for the life of me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Found guy on YouTube doing one. Removed radio/airbag/glove box. Removed screw from lh side of long duct and pushed it toward radiator. Then removed other duct that is in the way. Got mine all back together...no start. Will crank for about two seconds after you clear codes. Only codes are for tons and transfer case. Going to try PMI on cluster and maybe reprogram keys? I've just about taken all the dash back out looking for wiring issues. Makes no sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 TPMS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 I has a programmer. No EGT's. Straight pipe. I did as-built on cluster. Now to reinstall programmer so it maybe will start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 No joy. Cranks 2-5 seconds. Then have to clear codes to get it to crank again. Going to pull dash out... Wednesday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 It has some transfer case codes. Bet i didn't plug in control module. It's right of passenger air bag i believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Sure sounds like you didn't plug something in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 P1832 & P1876...off to look at pinpoint tests. Could be fuse 35 is SJB. Checked all the fuses but will re-do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Learned something. These apparently won't crank if the interia switch is popped...crap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 39 degrees at idle and it's hot and humid here. But...53* at cruise speed. Stop, cold. The cooling fan seems really slow to respond. If I command fan to 90%, takes it 20-60 seconds to respond. If rpm at 2300 high side goes 350 plus until fan finally catches up. When commanding fan duty cycle how much delay should there be? Has aftermarket aluminum radiator, programmer, bro-dozer tires/wheels, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 yep do those without pulling the dash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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