Steve Mutter Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 I am doing a frame replacement on a 2016 6.7 f250 and have to transfer the spring towers but I can't find the procedure in the work shop manual. Does anyone know if its ok to use high grade hardware or does it need to be riveted ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 No experience in collision but here is what Ford says 14901.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 We all bolt on shackle mounts and front spring towers on the early 90's f 150's and rangers. Just saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 I haven't done a frame in a while, but I have in the past used grade 8 hardware and welded the nut to the bolt once torqued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 I don't have a 2016 Vin handy so I looked up a 2013 that I work on but I didn't see a bolt kit for the front spring mount. I did see bolts & nuts listed for the rear what about using those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 I've seen guys remove front shock towers on 90's pickups to drill out broken exhaust manifold bolts and use high grade bolts to put them back on. Plus there was the frame noise recall on the 90's pickups that had you drill out the rivets and install bolts as well. Don't see why you couldn't make it work on your frame replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 I don't see why high strength bolts would not be more than sufficient for a shock tower. I think I have seen a truck or two over the years with this done to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeR Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 I'd be worried about the liability of performing a repair that Ford doesn't endorse. The bulletin states they only recommend repairing it the was it was originally made. If you repair it differently, you are taking responsibility for it. I can't think of a single scenario where I would expose myself to that kind of liability. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 I'd be worried about the liability of performing a repair that Ford doesn't endorse. The bulletin states they only recommend repairing it the was it was originally made. If you repair it differently, you are taking responsibility for it. I can't think of a single scenario where I would expose myself to that kind of liability. Joe Bolting brackets on frames has been widely accepted in both the automotive and heavy truck repair industries for decades. I have a friend who shortens and legnthens truck frames as part of his buisness. He bolts stuff instead of riviting. And he is very very strict by the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 Job is done, I used 10.9 metric grade bolts, washers, nylon locking nuts and red lock tight. It's a big fleet customer for us so this ones getting along road test and re check after the body shop is done on there end. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 I finally found it in the WSM section 501-35/Rivet replacement. It would make to much sense to put it in the frame 502 section... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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