Mekanik Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Hello Diesel Doctors! This is my own vehicle, a 2008 Buick Regal with a supercharged 3.8L engine and 204K miles. The vehicles has a crank no start when the engine is restarted hot. This morning when it would not restart I was able to verify spark and I had fuel squirt out of the schrader valve. I couldn't hear the fuel pump but it seemed like it had enough fuel pressure based on what was squirting out of the schrader valve. I checked for codes when I got home and the only code was a P440 for evap, which I've had for a while. I've been out of the business for about 2.5 years, so I might be a little rusty. I did replace the crank position sensor on this car about 10 years ago for stalling when hot so I'm thinking maybe that's what's going on here, but by time I thought about that I was away from the vehicle. Does anyone have any ideas or know of common problems? When I was in the business I worked on mostly Fords. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 A hot no restart sounds typical of a sensor or ignition module, make sure you check the terminals going into the ignition module for getting spread. Check injector pulse. Watch your speed signal pids from your IC module (18x or 24x) or whatever the numbers are. Also check the coils & make sure they are not getting super hot. Check the FP with a with a gauge or at least a DVOM for the amp draw. There should be a prime terminal next to the FP fuse. Even a couple pounds low can make a GM not start, they seem to take more pressure to start then to run. You could have a fuel pump relay that's not latching when it's hot, test the relay or swap it with another one. What's the theft light doing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted January 20, 2018 Author Share Posted January 20, 2018 6 hours ago, 8WA Sman said: Watch your speed signal pids from your IC module (18x or 24x) or whatever the numbers are. Also check the coils & make sure they are not getting super hot. What's the theft light doing? I’m out of the business and can’t check pids. Can I test the sensor with a dvom? The theft light was off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 I would have to think about that one. You got anybody that could diag this for you. IIRC those OE ignition modules are not cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeR Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 If there's good spark, I can't see it being a crank sensor or ignition module. It's not impossible, because the crank and cam sensors communicate with the ignition module, then the ignition module sends crank/cam sensor signals to the PCM. So while it's possible to have spark but no crank signal to the PCM, it's unlikely. Those modules just didn't fail like that. I wish there was a common thing to point you to, but without some diagnostic equipment you are dead in the water. My first suspect for a crank/no start on a 3800 would be a bad ignition switch, but without a scanner, that's not a fast diagnosis. BTW, it can't be an 08 Regal. There were no Regals that year. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted January 24, 2018 Author Share Posted January 24, 2018 It’s a 98 Regal. Why do you say ignition switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 50 minutes ago, Mekanik said: It’s a 98 Regal. Why do you say ignition switch? In your first post you said it is an 08. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeR Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 1 hour ago, Mekanik said: It’s a 98 Regal. Why do you say ignition switch? Because I was thinking it was a newer one. 98s didn't have the problem. At least not that I've ever seen. Later ones had switches that would drop a couple of the power wires at the same time. It would create all kinds problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 What kind of problems? This thing has had a very intermittent no crank, and I also have a low coolant lamp that stays on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeR Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 The last one I worked on had CAN Codes in almost all the controllers. Main concern was a No Crank, but other times there was no Instrument Cluster operation. It doesn't apply to your car though. Different ignition switch. A no crank shouldn't be too terrible to figure out on that vehicle. The PCM controls the Crank Relay (underhood fuse box) but if it was in Antitheft mode you'd have codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 On 1/20/2018 at 1:43 PM, Mekanik said: I’m out of the business and can’t check pids. Can I test the sensor with a dvom? Well if you insist in cooking with out a digital thermometer... use a DVOM and load test or voltage drop all circuits coming out of the ignition switch & all the grounds related to the circuits in question. If it has a connector @ the bottom of the steering column check that also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66glide Posted January 9, 2019 Share Posted January 9, 2019 Your fuel pressure regulator might be leaking fuel into the vacuum line and causing a "hot start flood" no start. That is quite common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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