18E02 Egr Bypass Replacment

March 9, 2019

I just did my first EGR bypass recall on the F150. Basically took me all day. Carefully went through all the instructions step by step. Should be able to meet or beat the time on the next one.

On my road test, the thing stalled at a red light. I was relieved when it was the start/stop system. This is the first diesel I drove with start/stop.

If you haven't done one, you should have a extra long 1/4 drive extension and a 1/4 drive 8mm and 10mm flex socket, they will make things a lot easier.

Be careful when positioning the cooler back on the engine. There is a coolant pipe with a 3 ribbed seal that has to be inserted first, had a problem inserting it.

On the rear of the cooler there is 2 small 6mm bolts that attach the exhaust elbow to the cooler. Make sure you use a good fitting socket on these.

forddieseldoctor · March 9, 2019

How long is extra long?

March 10, 2019

Its about 2 feet long from mac. Or weld a few shorter ones together. Makes the job easier

forddieseldoctor · March 10, 2019

Oh wow. That definately qualifies as extra long.

mchan68 · March 21, 2019

I just did my first one yesterday. Just looking for feedback. Which coolant tubes do you guys remove, and where do you disconnect them from? I agree, a two foot long 1/4" drive extension is the tool for this job.

March 26, 2019

I remove the front larger diameter water tube. I unbolt the one beside it, but don't pull it out of the engine block, just rotate it to the rear a little. Need to do that to get at the front lower cooler bolts. This is what the service manual says. It also says to remove the dipstick tube, I just leave that in place.

lmorris · March 26, 2019

I remove the 3 bolts that secure the smaller black tube and move it back enough to get on the small EGR mounting bolt on the bottom. I disconnect the quick connect hose from the black tube and the hose at the front of the cooler only. I also leave the dipstick tube in place and only remove the bolt that secures it to the EGR valve.

Chad_Kelsoe · April 2, 2019

I've done 3 in the last week and have it down to about 2 hours or so. I don't remove any coolant pipes, only loosen them and rotate the smaller tube reward. Unbolt the dipstick tube and pull it up slightly enough to help the cooler clear. Installing the front lower bolts are really the only thing that hold me up. Otherwise, I kinda enjoy the job. I also got the approval to drive one for about 3 weeks. They need 2000 miles put on them before May to be able to offer a $3000 discount. It will be nice to find out fuel mileage and the normal day to day drivability of this engine paired with the 10-speed.

mchan68 · April 2, 2019

I've only done two so far, and the main bother for me is how messy the job gets with coolant exiting at a very high rate. There doesn't seem to be any clean, mess free way of draining coolant. The secondary bother is working blind, especially when trying to start the inner exhaust to cooler bolt taking care not to strip it.

Chad_Kelsoe · April 2, 2019

I've found that I need to remove the degas bottle hose from the radiator to the bottle to get the system to drain all the way. Otherwise, it will only drain about 3/4 of a gallon. With the hose off, I'll get about 2 1/2 gallons. Then it doesn't make a real mess for me. I also remove the inner fender liner and that allows me to access everything pretty easily.

Keith Browning · April 3, 2019

Our shop had it's first one in today and I did not draw the job. The guy who did it, his first, looked like it took him about 4 hours. I poked my head in and had a look-see and it did not seem all that bad BUT the tips you guys are sharing look spot on!

mchan68 · May 1, 2019

Has anyone ever had this tube leaking coolant before, after doing this recall? Funny thing is, I only looosened this tube without actually removing it from the housing in order to gain access to removal of the larger tube in front of it.

lmorris · July 15, 2019

Anyone run into one yet that actually failed? I have one here with both screws fallen out and one of the screw's heads broke off and it's missing. Still waiting on Hotline to review the request for what to do next.

Edit: Found the missing screw head lodged in the cooler. Took a bit of shaking to dislodge it though, I almost gave up on finding it. Recommendation was, that if the piece is not found and there is no engine noise, then recall is to be completed and vehicle released to the customer.

Edited July 16, 2019 by lmorris
Upadted information.