Fredsvt Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 Hi everyone, If someone could possibly help as our labor guide is incomplete for this vehicle. I need some times for the following: Left turbo R&R RIght turbo R&R Long block replacement with transfer, or if an ecoboost 3.5 comes with turbos, haven't gotten that far as to ask our Ford parts guy. I'm assuming, the drivetrain drops out the bottom? Catalyst replacement. Back story: customer is clueless when it comes to her fleet, oil changes are neglected. Van has 94k, MIL illuminated, no power. Left turbo came apart, probable turbine in cat, was able to get inlet duct off turbo, turn it and it's done, hitting housing, compressor wheel extremely loose. Right turbo is seized. Was 3 qts low on oil, oil is thick black tar, sludge in valve cover. I'm guessing turbo feed filters have plugged with debris and starved them. Adding 3 qts of oil, the smell of oil coming out the exhaust is obvious, but no smoke. My opinion is there's no point to try and put turbos on it, since the feed filters will clog with the crap floating around the engine, and how long before it has timing chain issues, I'm sure isn't far away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted December 12, 2019 Share Posted December 12, 2019 Motor shows Left 8 Right 5.2 Both 10.8 Long Block 21.2 WSM shows motor coming out the bottom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredsvt Posted December 12, 2019 Author Share Posted December 12, 2019 thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 13, 2019 Share Posted December 13, 2019 If you choose to come out the bottom, be prepared to do a lot of screaming and swearing when you attempt to remove those seized crossmember bolts. You may want to quote a set of lower control arms too, if you end up needing to cut those off with the torch to get the crossmember bolts out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredsvt Posted December 13, 2019 Author Share Posted December 13, 2019 And off it goes, what a waste of time. The owner, when she bought her fleet signed Fidelity warranty paperwork. All were in her name. And so...when we called to start a claim, the warranty was invalid because the van has commercial plates and lettering/wrapping. Needless to say, after way too many emails, phone calls and hysterics, my boss decided he didn't want to be in the middle of such a cluster. It should be getting towed to the selling dealer who says they can correct the issue with the warranty. After filling it with oil, and running it afterward, it started smoking incredibly bad. Still zero boost and rocks in a blender noise coming out of left side turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 14, 2019 Share Posted December 14, 2019 You should count your blessings it was towed away. These vans are not fun to work on at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 On 12/13/2019 at 9:37 AM, mchan68 said: If you choose to come out the bottom, be prepared to do a lot of screaming and swearing when you attempt to remove those seized crossmember bolts. You may want to quote a set of lower control arms too, if you end up needing to cut those off with the torch to get the crossmember bolts out. It is way easier to remove the nose and the cooling stack and just pull the engine out the front. And you avoid all that undercarriage bolt nonsense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 7 hours ago, Keith Browning said: It is way easier to remove the nose and the cooling stack and just pull the engine out the front. And you avoid all that undercarriage bolt nonsense. You know Keith, you're not the first one I've heard that from. Having said that, I may actually attempt an engine removal by that method, should God forbid I ever end up with one in my bay needing one. The only issue I foresee is the lack of space in my shop, so I may end up needing to temporarily roll the van back to give me the needed room for the cherry picker to get into that space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 On 12/16/2019 at 10:38 AM, mchan68 said: so I may end up needing to temporarily roll the van back to give me the needed room for the cherry picker to get into that space. Back it in instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 I’ve done them both ways. I prefer the out the bottom method. I don’t remember messing with the subframe to get it out. Just the engine cradle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted December 29, 2019 Share Posted December 29, 2019 I have done both ways and I find taking the front apart the best for me. When it comes to engine work on these things gas or diesel I do not fear them as much anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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