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Well, the harness side tester is easy enough to aquire with all the scrap FICM harnesses that were replaced early on. Since this picture was taken I lengthened the wires to about a foot long to make it easy to hook up my DVOM out of the way.

The injector side came from a vehicle that blew the top off the injector due to low fuel pressure. The injector top moved enough the wires got caught by the rocker arm and sawed through. Since I had a couple bulb sockets from some pickup take-off bumpers I simply paired up the circuits. The use of an orange and clear bulb helps my weak eyes tell whether each open/closed signal is sent by the FICM. These testers sure work better than the test light procedure in the TSB.

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I just might have to send an injector back missing something... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif

The different colored bulbs is a great idea!

I like that idea, hope they dont deny the core due to missing parts

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You would be surprised at some of what I have sent back in the past. I know of two injectors that had to have left them scratching their heads! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Not to mention that many times the hardshell connector gets a brutal punishment trying to release the tabs from the cylinder head. I have the "special" tool but it does not work very well in my opinion. They designed it to fit into the hole in the head instead of being large enough to fit around the retaining tabs. A socket still works best, usually, but sometimes I still manage to lose my patience.

 

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smhair.gif

 

Aside from what we send them, all of the injectors I take out of the box have new coils, wiring and connectors. I assume that stuff gets tossed on every rebuild regardless. And it just hit me (duh!) that there is also a harness connector in the picture... makes electrical testing of the injector a little easier I am betting! I have several scrap harnesses laying around. I think that I would like longer wire leads than what is shown though.

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the injector tools works when you figure it out. the first few times i tossed it and used a socket, hammer whatever is closest. the trick to the tool is set it on the connector sideways covering the tab then rock it over the other other tab and it pops right out.

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I did figure that out but there is one or two places you can barely get the tool into depending on model year. Latest victim was a number one injector on a 2005 with that extra brace behind the alternator. I ended up taking out the hardshell and bent a pin. Good thing the injector was being replaced. Maybe I just need to slow down and remember what you said.

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Forgive me for thinking... the "noid light" uses twelve volt bulbs to test a 48 volt circuit... without blowing the bulbs? Assuming this is the case then the reason would be that the coils are energized for such a short time that the bulbs never have a chance to over heat and blow?

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  • 4 months later...

I finally put mine together. I have had the parts for a while but I just had a need for it so I spent the time the other morning. Works well and I used the different bulb color idea. Works nice and a purdied up the tool by encasing it in a flexible tube so it stands up so I can see it from the left door as I turn the ignition on and off. Oh, and the bulbs don't blow out. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif

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  • 4 weeks later...

As many injectors that go thru the system. You won't have a problem with 1 or 2 harnesses being scalped of the injectors. Ford is only interested in getting them back in the original boxes with the bar codes intact. I was even told by my FAD that he has seen a couple get thru empty and got credit for the cores, whether that's true or not I don't know. Just be selective on the injector you swipe the harness from I'd say you would be safe with 1-2 of the 6.0 injectors.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got around to posting the pic of my 6.0L Noid Stick that I made. I put the whole thing in some convolute tubing and wrapped it up in tape. This holds the lights up so that I can see from the side of the truck while turning the key or running an click test. I have noticed that one light remains much brighter than the other while the engine is running.

 

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i have the adapter bruce, but with all the stuff in the way, i dont like the way i have it setup. I have 3-4 adapters to get to my gauge, then it doesnt sit right. Just curious what you guys use. I dont have a problem checking it in the bay but on test drives, is another issue.

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