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Injector Cut Out Box

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I was wondering if there is some place to get Essential Service tools if you are an aftermarket shop. I'm especially intersted in an injector cut out box. I believe I've read a post where a member made on, if anyone has any details on that I would appreciate it.

 

I'm beginning to see more 7.3L that run a little rough and don't set any codes. I feel like an injector cut out box would be really handy to have around and I'd be particularly interested in making one since that wouldn't cost me an arm and a leg.

 

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer.

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I made a cutout box to go in series with the VC connector, and rarely use it. If it's a 99.5 up truck and you have a scan tool that reads Perdel pids, you don't need a cutout box. Perdels will show you weak cylinders that won't set a code.

 

Also, make sure you run the contribution test in "drive" if it's an automatic, as that will also identify weak cylinders easier.

 

 

Copied from my book:

 

 

 

PERDEL- Percentage Delta

 

This PID is for detecting misfire at idle. Identified by Ford as: Cylinder percent change in rotational velocity, used for detecting a cylinder misfire.

This only exists on 99.5 up trucks and only works after warmed up. #8 cylinder almost always shows a higher number like 1.0-2.4% It takes about 3% to set a code during the Contribution Test. The PIDs are only active at idle and go to 0 if revved up.

 

An excellent way to identify a weak injector on a late truck!

 

PERDEL1 0.0% PERDEL6 0.7%

PERDEL2 0.5% PERDEL7 0.0%

PERDEL3 0.0% PERDEL8 2.4%

PERDEL4 2.2%

PERDEL5 0.0%

 

This would show #4 as the weak cylinder.

 

Good Luck!

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Thanks man you rock. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

 

My personal scan tool calls it Cylinder Velocity. I've always been a little skeptical of this data as it always reads about the same. Both on trucks that run a little rough and trucks that don't. Usually, as you state, cyl. 8 reads about 2% but I've also noticed cyl. 6 reads around 2% as well.

 

Excellent information man.

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  • 7 months later...

I don't know how I ever got by without one. If you have about grand, you can buy this one: http://www.intermotive.net/Brochures/IPA.pdf
OR...
If you'd rather spend about $50 and have some time on your hands you can build your own like this. Go to Radio Shak and get yourself a project box, 8x 110v toggle switches, a spool of wire, gromet, and a label maker. You will also need to procure one of the 42 pin connectors found on many ford vehicles (mine came from an old Taurus engine harness). Wire the connectors so that all of the pins are just a pass through, except the 8 injector control circuits which you run through the swith box. I checked several E and F series evtm's for several model years, and all had the same injector pin locations - so I'm pretty sure this will work on any 7.3 DIT, but you should do your own research to be sure. Install, label, and wire the switches respectively.
Then to use it, just connect this device in series with the engine harness and make sure all switches are closed. Start the engine, and switch off cylinders one at a time to isolate weak injectors (often this is the only way to diagnose a cold miss). If it's not obvious which one it is, monitor the mfdes pid (mass fuel desired) and write down what it reads for each cylinder. add the readings and divide by 8 to get an average. Compare each individual reading to the average and you should see pretty clearly which injector(s) are at fault. NEVER SHUT OFF MORE THAN 1 OR 2 INJECTORS AT A TIME AS THIS IS VERY HARD ON THE IDM AND MAY CAUSE IT TO FAIL. Once you have narrowed it to your specific cylinder(s), you are 3/4 of the way through the SSCC process!!!

 

injectortester1rx2.jpg

 

 

 

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Jeff that's pretty sharp and looks like it does the job. It's a whole lot better than having to cough up a grand for the other one. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

 

When you say, if you have time. What kind of time are we talking about?

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probably about 6 hrs total. I did this in 04 so its hard to remember. I estimate that I spent 1.5 hours going through evtm's and figuring out that (it seems)all 7.3 DIT's have their 42 pin connector injector control circuits in the same pin location regardless of year. The rest of the time Assembling the connector/harness/box assembly. It could be done a faster I think, but I'm pretty anal about soldering my connections and doing a fancy job. I over built mine, If I had to do it over again I would have used a smaller gauge wire so it isn't so bulky, and made the harness a little longer so I could reach it into the truck thereby allowing me to drive the vehicle with it hooked up should the need ever arise. I haven't found any sources for a new 42 pin connector, so you'll have to raid a junk yard to get one. The rest of the materials are available at Radio Shak.

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I haven't found any sources for a new 42 pin connector, so you'll have to raid a junk yard to get one.

Beware that all 42 way connectors are not the same. Gassers look the same, but won't plug in. BTDT /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

 

I made the same thing quicker with valve cover gasket connectors, but rarely use it now.

 

PS: Somewhere I read about a tech who made one of these with 8' of cable, so that two similar trucks could be parked side by side, and the engine on one could be run with the electronics from the other. I thought this was a cool idea but I can't remember if it was a DTS guy who built it.

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Quote:
Did it work???, Thats Genius if it does

It worked slick, but I can't take credit for the idea. Chuck Gregory from International came down to help me with a 7.3l and he gave me the idea. At the time 7.3 liters were plentiful and finding a good truck to hook up to was quite easy but now not so much, they are kind of scarce.

I tell ya the tool used to shave off some serious diag time and guessing.
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  • 4 months later...

I know this is a really old thread, but I am in need of a cut-out box for a 96 7.3. I have the box built and wired. Does anybody have the part numbers or the best place to get the 42 pin connector( be nice to have the 42 pin conn, so I could use it on 99-03 7.3s as well. But with the perdels pid dont think i would need it there) I am thinking of wiring it to go in series with the valve cover connectors. Does anybody have part numbers or a good place to get both half of the valve cover connectors? I have the repair kits for the engine harness side of the connector in my tool box but finding the cover gasket part of the connector has been tough. Thanks for the help guys.

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It's a little crude but I've cut up old valve cover gaskets to get the pins out. I was not doing it to build a cylinder cancel box but to use the pins to check connectors. I know that we have repair connectors for the harness side (which it sounds like you already have that), if some of the pieces of valve cover would do what you need I'd be glad to send a set out.

 

On the 42 pin connector I had an engine harness that I salvaged from a scrap engine and went to a wrecking yard to get the body side connector. Set it up as an extension harness to run one engine from another truck (what a great idea!). It didn't have the pins on one end for the MAT sensor and Wastegate Solenoid but it definately helped me determine that the odd problem was with the engine rather than the truck (PCM, IDM, wiring, etc).

 

I don't have any extra 42 pin connectors but can easily send out valave cover gasket pin sets.

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What? You couldn't get a matching switch for 7 and 8?

I take it you haven't met Joey? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

 

 

 

 

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

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Originally Posted By: Keith Browning
What? You couldn't get a matching switch for 7 and 8?

I take it you haven't met Joey? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

 

 

 

 

 

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/stooges.gif ass. its no worse than you having a picture of you holding a HP gauge in your hand with 4000psi doofus.

 

Originally Posted By: Keith Browning
What? You couldn't get a matching switch for 7 and 8? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Of course you need to install a switch plate to bring that thing up to code!

i made due with what i had, it was bad enough i had to spend 8 bucks for a four gang switch box /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

 

 

the connectors i used were off a taurus, i did have to add some pins, but they worked well.

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Hey, if it works thats all the matters. BTW you know we are kiddin around!?!?

 

no, i am going to find you and attack your puppies.

 

 

 

 

of course man, i am very fluent in internet shit talking /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

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