Shlep Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 No just you, I'll do an E-series over an F any day, as for the bracket being broke I had a rash of E's in the fall and I never had any of them with it broken, maybe it's something thats just starting to happen /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 E-series is definitely easier to do for me, and it is also easier on the back and gut. The bracket that holds the oil fill pipe and right side CAC tube is always broken on the ambulances I work on. The CAC tube flexes so much on the E-series and flexes that bracket and then it breaks eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 15, 2008 Share Posted March 15, 2008 It's always being the bomb squad guy almost when you're doing that cover, trying not to drop those bolts down the damn HPOP reservoir. "Red wire, or blue wire? Which one do i cut" Cut the tension with a knife. Just when you need someone to come along and slap you on the back and tell you you're doing a hell of a good job. Only thing I can compare it to is someone tripping over your air line and yanking the fittings apart while you're doing a set of valve stem seals, with the seal off, and the valves bein' held shut by the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Warman Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Aaron.... think "rope".... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shlep Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Aaron.... think "rope".... Works like a charm /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Aaron.... think "rope".... Didn't happen to me...it was...a guy I know... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif When I first started in the trade. Boss told me "Oh it'll be fine, you don't need to use anything but shop air!" even though every time I'd done a spring swap on my old malibu, I used rope and TDC as my high school shop teacher as well as my father had shown me, because I didn't have shop air at home. Water under the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted March 16, 2008 Share Posted March 16, 2008 Maybe it's just me, but it seems easier to access the HPOP on E-series than it is on F-series. Are you guys removing the intake to access the HPOP on F-series? Also, I've had a batch of E-series trucks coming in for various repairs and found more than a few where the bracket that mounts between the alternator and the air inlet (or EGR throttle plate if equipped)have broken in the middle. They all seem to break in the same spot. Anyone else had this? I've since had our parts department keep at least one in stock. You only have to remove the intake on early build engines with the crossover tube in the intake manifold. I see lots of those brackets broken, I just weld them back together and slam it back in. I find both the Es and Fs to be quite easy, so I don't really have a preference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoWilimek Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Since we're on the topic for neat 6.0L tricks, here are MY gripes. -'03 F-Series turbo hold-down bolt on the BACK side of turbo I Remove the nuts off the front cab mounts and the second row cab mount bolts and then jack up the front of the cab just enough to put a 4X4 wood block on each side of the frame between the cab and the frame. Takes only a few minutes and gives you lots of room to work at the back of the turbo Originally Posted By: mchan68 turbo from E-series. Is there a "special" technique to getting them out WITHOUT lots of fighting? Raise the truck on a hoist and drop the tranny mount crossmember down a few inches. This works best on a ramp hoist that you can use the rolling jack to lower/raise the tranny. I use c-clamp vice-grips(for safeties sake)to hold the crossmember in place at the lowered position in case the hydraulics fail in the jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Holy Shit Bruno..... Just use a 17mm turbo socket that goes over the bolt's washer, a 3inch 3/8 rachet, and hold a big prybar tip to the rachet. Have a helper push on the prybar while u hold it on the rachet...come's off in 2 seconds. That's all i use to get that bolt out on the 03's. No heat or nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Holy Shit Bruno..... Just use a 17mm turbo socket that goes over the bolt's washer, a 3inch 3/8 rachet, and hold a big prybar tip to the rachet. Have a helper push on the prybar while u hold it on the rachet...come's off in 2 seconds. That's all i use to get that bolt out on the 03's. No heat or nothing. Ditto... stubby ratchet and a pry-bar... works everytime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoWilimek Posted March 18, 2008 Share Posted March 18, 2008 Originally Posted By: Tony302600 Holy Shit Bruno..... Just use a 17mm turbo socket that goes over the bolt's washer, a 3inch 3/8 rachet, and hold a big prybar tip to the rachet. Have a helper push on the prybar while u hold it on the rachet...come's off in 2 seconds. That's all i use to get that bolt out on the 03's. No heat or nothing. Ditto... stubby ratchet and a pry-bar... works everytime. Thanks, I will have to try that on the next one I get. I still like the trick of raising the front of the cab slightly, as it allows me to see and feel the bolt, and get my hands in there. It also gives more clearance to make lifting the turbo out/in a bit easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony302600 Posted March 19, 2008 Share Posted March 19, 2008 Bruno, not to be a dick...but that is waisted time. This take's about 5 seconds tops.... (if you can get someone over right away) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrunoWilimek Posted April 15, 2008 Share Posted April 15, 2008 Well Tony and Alex, thanks for the tip. I had the opportunity to try it out last week on an 03 with lots of k's on it. My "turbo" socket is 11/16 but worked as it is very close to 17mm. It has a 1" hex head. I don't have a stubby 1/2 drive ratchet and don't like borrowing tools, so I decided to try something. I took my custom made ICP wrench(cut in half to remove rear-mounted ICP sensors) and (yes I know, it sounds bad to put a 1 1/16" wrench on a 1" hex, but the wrench was cheap and technically I had already wrecked it when I cut in in half)grabbed my air chisel with the 18" long chisel that I had rattled the clamps off the turbo downpipe and y-pipe with, and it worked great. The wrench was the exact right length and by using the air chisel against it, I got that nasty bolt out. It came out tight at least halfway, as did the front one opposite it. That one I was unable to get my turbo socket on, due to clearance issues, so I hammered a 3/8" socket on it and had to heat the turbo housing several times to get it out. I may have to cut a 1" wrench down for the next time. I did not remove the front cab mount nuts on this one as the threads were too rusty to permit the nut to come off the first one I tried to take off. Yes, the turbo came out, but I still like the extra little bit of room to work that jacking up the cab provides. To each his own. For Tony and Alex, thanks again. I hope I am never too old to learn new tricks. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 We did the lower right turbo up pipe on a 6L f-series from the bottom by just removing the tranny crossmember and the down pipe. Gives you lots of room to get at the bolts that hold the two pipes together. You can even leave the left pipe clamped to the turbo and working with the EGR cooler clamp is not an issue from below either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheezit Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 fuel in coolant...finding a cracked head. if you have to remove both heads you can flip them uupside down with the injecotrs in and back fill the coolant passages with soapy water. then inject 50psi of shop air into the fuel supply port on the head wait for a little bit. the one that has suds bubbling is the bad one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 That earns the 5 headbanger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 I love it!! Very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 As the old saying goes, your never too old to learn something new. As I have gotten older, I have gotten more brittle, and I basically don't want to crawl around on top of diesel engine. I have been removing the front wheels and jacking the rear of the truck up forever now in an effort to make the engine may more accessible from the flat of my feet. My new shop is not very truck friendly an requires a floor jack and creeper to do any truck work. I had to put injectors in bank 1 so I only removed the right side 19.5 wheel and tire and lowered it down. I was able to reach everything but struggled to get the valve cover out. I finally realized that the body and engine had twisted and closed up the gap to the evap box. I had to replace another bank 1 injector on a different truck afterwards and it dawned on me that if I dropped the driver side down only, then the opposite effect would occur in relation to the engine and evap box. There was so much room that I could get a Snap on torx socket on the lower oil rail bolts. It was nice and refreshing and I wish I knew about it a decade ago. Of course I probably wouldn't know about still if I hadn't moved to this ill equipped shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Werner AP-20, runs about $45 at home depot. For years before this I was using a milk crate and guessing where my feet were going to land. Occassionally catching the edge and ending up on my ass. Not fun. This little platform has been the best thing I've bought in a long time. Lately it never leaves the front of my stall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 I like the sounds of the twisty-frame-cab deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 don't try it on a 6.4, twist that cab enough and a tank is gonna fly off the rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
run6.0run Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 How about this one for a turbo for a customer in a hurry?? Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Guilty of that. I have a little red turbo fan that I lay facing down behind the back of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Heater hose bracket useful for other tasks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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